Wow, 8,000 miles; I'm impressed. Do you plan to keep a brief log (written or electronic) on the mileage you experience? I would like to hear what you got (mountains, average 60 MPH, 100% A/C usage, XX MPG, level ground, 65 MPH average, 50% A/C usage, XX MPG, for example).

Safe journey!

Joe

 

Same problem, same solution. The AC died in my 2008 FEH. I went to Advance Auto and bought their Arctic Freeze recharge kit which has two bottles, sealant, UV dye and a UV light.

Super easy to use, and the UV light shows no leaks.

Its been a long hot month since the refill, and still blowing cold. A great $50 investment!

 

It seems, you have to repair it or yeah, you can contact to any Service Center to know what is the actual problem is...

 

My 2006 FEH's AC has seems to have become weaker and weaker over the years. Surprisingly, I've never had any problems from the blend door actuator. I pulled it last night to see if it was broken or anything and it was fine.

I'm wondering if my system just has a small leak and just has very little of the original factory charge left. Both local Ford dealers are rubbish (one never even called me back about the MECS pump warranty job) but after reading this thread I may have to try some others in the area.

 

Just as a data point, FWIW, 2X Honda Civic Hybrids and 1 Honda fit... ALL had leaky A/C systems. I have to top them off with straight R-134a every summer.

2001 Olds Alero, 145k miles... never touched the A/C system... works AMAZING.

 

Please see my above post from 8-2-2012.

I can tell you now, three years later, that the Arctic Freeze product was a fix that is still working great. It may or may not be the answer to your problem, but it sure was for mine. You can buy that product anywhere, or online.

 

Weeps vs leaks.
The thought about "how long a time period did the loss of cooling occur" is a good one. If it occurred over a long period of time then the issue of weeps at some seals is likely the problem and a one shot can will serve fine for awhile.

If you do the one shot can route, and that will fix the weep problem just fine for a couple of years or so, then here's a hint. Find a way to purge the line of air just before clicking the connector on.
Perhaps the best way would be to get ready to push on the connector (ie have it on the system connection but not seated), push open the can valve, and then quickly push the connector and seat it. This has to be quick or you'll hear your R-134a wooshing into the wind. The idea is that there will be air in the hose connecting the can to the system and if you can replace most of it with R-134a this is better.

Air is non-condensable and reduces system performance.

The stop leak is a formulation that causes the rubber seals/orings to swell a bit. It works, but is a temporary measure. In my mind when you have to use stop leak something will need to be replaced in a year or two.

In general industry will tell you rubber components (orings/seals/hoses) need to be replaced every ten years. They will also tell you if it is working fine don't open the system because its ten years old. My thought: if you do a one shot can and it works for say two years, try another. If that works for two years do it again. When you reach the point of it not working for even a season... get the stuff with dye in it, find the leak, and fix that. You may want to fix other rubber items while in there since you don't want to do a fix only to have something else start leaking 3 months later.

 

A market has risen in the auto A/C repair business, it's for stop leak detectors. Stop leak will ruin a A/C recovery machines. Good/wise shops will use the device to detect for stop leak, if found they will refuse to service your vehicle.

 

I also have a 2008 FEH like the original poster, and my A/C has gradually become weaker also. I think it is likely a small leak somewhere. I usually drive with the windows down and it's not too hot/humid where I live. Is it ok to just drive without the A/C? I'm more concerned about ruining my battery pack than sweating myself. Do you guys know if the same refrigerant is used to cool the cabin and the battery pack? Thanks a lot!

 

Yes, it's mostly the same system. There is a "Y" valve that directs the refrigerant either to the cabin system or the battery system, plus sensor/control electronics that determines which needs cooling. So there's only one condenser and one compressor.

The battery pack will cease functioning if it goes over 100F. You can check by putting your hand on it under the cargo mat. If the a/c isn't working, 100F is hot but not burning hot. It will only become a problem if the combination of outside air temperature and amount of use of the battery combine to push it's temperature over 100F. At that point you will lose regen, engine shutdown and electric assist. Since these settings are arbitrary, probably it's harmful to some degree any time the battery reaches or approaches 100F. Check out the other current topic about this subject.

And I have to say, even modern refrigerants are not good for the atmosphere. The systems should be repaired whenever leaks are noticed even if it's far more costly than just adding more refrigerant.