Sounds like a happy story Glenn. I have had pretty good service myself.

YOU DO NEED TO SPEAK UP AND BE PERSISTENT at times.

I bought a December 2004 production FEH. It came with 2004 Nav maps.
I got a 2005 edition of disks just for asking nicely. ( A $199 value. )

At 50,000 miles and 4 years into ownership, I complained about the flimsy, some would say shoddy "carpet" ( not much of a carpet it was so thin ) that covered the battery pack. I asked if I could get a "replacement" rubberized and ruggedized "mat" for the battery cover that came with all 2008 and newer FEH. After I was quoted a price over $100 ( I forget ) I declined at first. Then I found a TSB that stated "IF a customer complains about the carpet within the 3/36000 warranty, replace at N/C."

I asked if they would honor this TSB even though I was at 50,000 miles, and they did. I got a free carpet mat.

I read online that many people had the electric M/E coolant pump fail at around 50,000 miles. At about 50,000 miles my pump was working, but it was making more noise than ususal. It had no trouble codes, and the car was working fine. There was also a TSB for the pump for early production FEH's and the pump was updated sometime mid-year 2006. I did, however, get a new M/E coolent pump at N/C even though mine had not failed.... Ford agreeed faliure seemed probable in the near future.

I had my A/C freon leak out 3 times.
Once was due to "defect" ( bad o-ring was installed ). Fixed, N/C in hours.
Second time I had a hole in the condensor up front on the grille, though due probably to rock or stone road debris, and not a Ford defect, they replaced it under the 3/36000 warranty at N/C.
The third time ( recently at 60,000 miles ) I had a hole in the freon line to the rear battery pack. I was quoted like $650 for this repair, I declined, added 2 cans of 'stop leak' and it has worked fine since.

 

John, do you have links to these TSB's? I have a 2005 FEH and could use the rear carpet replaced and would like to know about the pump info as well.

 

This link: http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=138 is about the rear cargo carpet TSB 06-19-1

Escape-city.com has many of the Escape TSB listed.

 

FEH 2005 DTC'S POA27 and P1A10 and no others codes are retrieved, the car runs from a range of 5 min to 2 hours and after this this codes are present the car won't start untill we disconect the 12 volt battery, when i run a KOEO on it,it gives me P1027 ( wide open trhottle), and everythig looks pretty normal on the data stream from all modules, and i already replaced most or the relays ., i am replacing the trhottle body for this p1027, i really will apreciate all the support

att

soliman arriaga
ASE certified in electronics

 

Thanks for the lead on Escape-city.com & TSBs

We are used to cars that run no matter what... think of the famed Jeep of WW II fame. These were so simple, and inefficient, that they ran, dirty, clean, bad fuel, after sitting in a pond for a week, with 100k on'em. They just ran, though poorly.

They also got poor mileage and emitted stuff that would get us shutdown today. Their kettering ignition systems weren't all that great but they ran even with pug gaps 2-3 times called for. Their only trouble codes were coughing, spitting, poor acceleration, and fuel mileage.

The price of great fuel mileage and clean emissions is computer controls. With them come many, many sensors and connectors throughout the car and software for the computer that runs the car. If a connector gets loose or dirty it makes a difference. It can send a false signal to the control circuitry or it can cause a download error with software that spins into run problems.

I go back to my post of awhile ago: systematically go through plugs & connectors, unmake them clean them up and remake them, paying attention to ensuring that seals are in good condition. Reload the software, if able, on occasion to ensure that errors that creep in don't linger.

Dealerships are not set up to do this kind of troubleshooting since it takes a long term methodical approach. It is notable in one of the posts above that Ford chose to replace the wiring harness.

It is possible that a wire break could also be the problem but these are so rare as to be almost impossible. A wire break would look like a dirty connector or a failed sensor since the computer can only tell it is getting either no or a poor signal.

If you get a trouble code leading to a specific item: try first simply reseating the plug to it. Then go up the line and reseat plugs in its signal path. The computer can't tell a bad signal from a broken component.

Keep track of what you're doing. When the failure occurs write down what happened, what the environment was like (wet?), and if able trouble codes. Then go pick a likely connector and clean it up.

Note the connector cleaned up. We may eventually find a pattern to the connectors involved. They could be bad, located in a place that is more susceptible to damage, leaking, or vibration.

As a group we may find, after awhile, that there are certain common places that these failures occur.

 

I am not finding a DTC for P1027 in the hybrid manual, are you sure that is the code? What kind of scan tool are you using?

 

That's not a hybrid code and signals WOT in the Key On Engine Off pinpoint test. I don't know why he's getting p1027 but in the pinpoint test with the P1A10 DTC points to P1A0C PCM - Engine Disabled. This all leads to a Battery Power Off Circuit Harness problem. I'm just wondering if the electric coolant pump is causing an overheat and the power is shutdown. He's resetting the memory system with a 12V battery disconnect to get started again. I think I'd chect the pump before replacing the throttle body. He could be getting WOT because of no electric motor assist. Without conducting pinpoint test like the PCM/ED manual states, I don't know what else to say.

GaryG

 

GaryG, that might be a prudent check but I thought there would be a MECS overheat code stored if the pump was bad. Also most non professional scan tools dont let you get to the other modules that will give the codes that will help diagnose, there is a LOT of other info in the hybrid can system.

 

Speaking from very recent experience, before my coolant pump actually failed I got a few stop safely now messages. Additionally, without any codes I noticed the radiator fans running full bore after freeway drives. The fans or messages never happened when tooling around at < 45mph. I don't have the codes it threw with me right now, but unless they matched it probably wouldn't help you.

 

Here's an update for my situation.

2006 MMH about 32500 miles or so - still under warranty.

Recap:

Incident #1: It died in a parking lot 100 miles from home. Wouldn't start when wife came back from shopping. "Stop Safely Now" and "Service Soon" were flashing. Towed to dealer, who replaced MECS pump. Drove it home.

Incident #2: Ten days later (ish). Wife driving kids to school. It died while in motion in the school parking lot. Same messages as before. Wouldn't start. Several moms pushed it into parking spot. 15 minutes later, it started. Wife drove to dealer. Pulled Codes P1A0E, P1A0F, and P0A78. Dealer called hotline. "no known concerns". Sent me home with no repairs made.

Incident #3: 30 days later (ish). Wife no longer drives car. It dies on me in the middle of an intersection that includes onramp to interstate. Same messages as before. Won't start. Towed to dealer (same dealer as #2). Diagnosed as issue with transaxle. Whole transaxle being replaced. Won't be ready for a week or so. I don't know the codes, but I'll ask.

We'll see...