I know this problem has been discussed before, but just want to se I'd there is ny news since I last visited. We have a 2006 FEH, And have experienced stop safely now just about every time we have visited hot climates (greater than 100 deg F). The first time it happened, Ford claimed it never heard of problems of this type that seemed occur in hot climates. They did some diagnosis, but did offer any solutions. Two years passed, had the same problem- nothing from Ford. On our last extended warranty check, Ford found a vent door to the hybrid battery was not operating and fixed it. Now, in 2012, family was in hot climate again and car would not start. By now, I sort of knew what to look for, so I opened the compartment where the external air comes into the hybrid battery compartment and aired it out( the car had been sitting in 100 deg. Plus heat). Car started,but quit on the interstate; luckily, I was able to coast off the fwy. Car did restart when I tried it. Has anyone had a similar problem?

I have read that the hybrid battery gets cooled by the AC, but what if the car has been sitting in the heat? Seems that this situation could prevent car from starting, true?
Lastly, do I have any recourse with Ford regarding the 8 yr hybrid system warranty. I'm glad I don't live in the desert, as this car would be useless.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Dave

 

I would have the dealer pull codes when you have the problem and go from there. The more I read around the interwebs, the more it seems the little parts and the details are the problem. I'd recommend looking at all the usual suspects, including coolant change, 12V battery life, actuator and vent door, and MECS pump. I have heard on another thread about the HV battery fans though that one is new to me and I'm awaiting more info on that issue. There is a huge thread about the "stop safely now" message here, and elsewhere on the net, so use the search function and see what you can discover.

 

Thanks 84GT Ragtop,

I agree that there must be some small component that is the problem. i've only found one person so far who had this very same problem( won't start in high heat)- poster did'nt provde any details on the final fix to his problem. I'm taking it into the dealer here in Redding,ca, where the high is expected to be 112 tomorrow. This time, the dealer should be able to recreate the problem, something I've nott been able to do since I live in LA and get it serviced there. This problem only occurs in 100 deg plus weather, it never gets this hot at home. problem has occurred on three occasions over six years, all in 100 plus deg weather.

 

Hey greendave,
Are you getting any other messages? This has happened to me twice now and I had to have a water pump that cools the electric motor replaced (twice). But I was getting a "High Motor Temperature" warning as well. I'd like to think I got a bad replacement pump the 1st time.

--Ben

 

I wonder how dirty your traction battery air filter is. It's the one located in the left rear behind the plastic trim panel. Behind that trim panel is another black plastic cover that allows access to the filter itself. Mine was pretty dark and nasty compared to the new FP51 filter I got off Amazon for $14 shipped free with a couple other things to get me above the $25 cutoff (way cheaper than dealer). A good test is to simply hold it against a new filter to compare, or hold the old filter to the sun or bright light and see if that light can be seen through the filter -- if not, replace it.

I've also read of problems with the MECS pump. A good way to see if the MECS pump is good or bad is to simply listen to it running. It's attached to the inside of the front bumper on the passenger side and is cylindrical, and about the size of a soda can. If it's not working properly it won't be humming along or circulating coolant into that rear-most engine compartment coolant tank. Try tapping it lightly and see if the humming changes in tone, and check to ensure the 2nd coolant tank shows coolant circulating. Won't be much, but it should be moving nonetheless.

The battery pack fans can also cause problems, and I'd recommend searching the forums for solutions there, as I'm not very knowledgeable on that subject. I did download a document that describes how to replace it, if you're a do-it-yourselfer, but it's supposedly covered by the hybrid warranty IF the dealer inputs the correct part #s to discover that information.

Almost never in any of my searching have the actual hybrid batteries been the cause of the problem (in fact only once was that verified anywhere I've read online, and that was 2nd-hand info from a guy that knew a Ford Master Tech). It's always the "supporting players" that fail, and then trip the codes that cause the shutdown.

If nothing else, spend a lot of time searching the forums and reading the "stop safely now" threads seen on google searches, and here, etc. You'll find the info and get yourself knowledgeable about the likely causes of your specific problems.

EDIT: I've gathered some troubleshooting docs and other info and can email them to you if you'd like. PM me through the site and give me your email addy, and I'll email them asap.

 

Ben,
I don't think I got a high motor temp. The dealer called me tester day and said my car would not start after being left in hot sun (110 outside). They said they tapped the MECS pump after which car started. They convinced me that MECS pump needs replacing. I am still wondering if there is another component near the MECS pump,that reacts to the Tapping. Otherwise car works fine in cooler climate at home in LA.

 

Ragtop,

Sorry, didn't see your post. I looked at the filter- ther were some evenly spread out dirt specs, so I don't think this is the problem. Dealer said tapping On MECS pump allowed them to start the car. There must be an electrical signal coming from the MECS pump that prevents starting the car - I'm wondering what the signal ( if it exists) indicates- over temp or pump not operating? Anyone know? I'm not 100% sure that the MECS pump really is the issue, but I'm kinda stuck right not as I'm on vacation. As I've said before, car has been working fine for six years as long as I don't take it to the desert.

 

The MECS pump should always be running when you turn the key on in order to flow coolant, so the batteries stay cool enough to function properly. There is no other component near it that could be affected by tapping on the pump itself to make it run, other than the actual wiring connection to it, of course.

The MECS pump is controlled by a relay in the engine compartment fuse box, and the pump itself will not throw any codes if it goes bad, but if the relay is bad the relay will throw a code... at least from what I've read. You can swap the relay but I doubt that's the issue -- the MECS pump is well known for crapping out and the fact the dealership at least said they had to tap on it to get it to work sounds exactly right -- if the stealership can be trusted anyway.

EDIT: BY THE WAY, IF YOU CAN WAIT, BUY IT YOURSELF SOMEWHERE CHEAPER ONLINE AND DO THE REPLACEMENT YOURSELF -- TAKES 30MIN AND WILL SAVE YOU TONS OF CASH. I HAVE THE INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU NEED THEM.

 

The first generation MECS pumps do not run continuously, the updated version does.

 

As I understand it for 2007, the original and updated MECS pumps operate in the same way. The connector (C1466) to the pump has only two conductors, Pin 1 "Ground" and Pin 2 "Motor electronics coolant pump relay output". There's no provision for one pump to operate continuously and the other not.

UPDATE: Could the original pump have had an internal thermal switch?