Just changed my CVT fluid today @ 55k miles on my 06 FEH:
The MERCON 'red' ATF specified in the owner's manual is no longer manufactured, so I used MERCON V as recommended in the Ford lubricant catalog.
To access the top bolt, I had to cut away a softball sized section of the inner splash guard in the wheel well. It's marked with a circle embossed into the plastic and can be removed with a utility knife. Make sure to turn your steering wheel all the way to the left as suggested in the owner's manual. The bottom bolt is clearly visible without removing anything but you'll have to crawl under the car. Small ramps might help here but I didn't use anything.
The oil check bolt and the drain bolt both have 10mm Allen heads and I had to make an extra trip to Autozone to pick up the tool. The bolts were magnetic and had a very small quantity of metal fuzz on them, nothing to worry about. They also use aluminum crush washers and this time around I just flipped the washers when putting everything together. I don't know the Ford part number, but I noticed that my Honda crush washers fit perfectly! The Honda parts are readily available online, search for "Odyssey Transmission Drain Washer." You could probably get by without replacing the washers, especially for the top bolt since no oil is even in contact with it.
I replaced the bottom bolt and poured in just less than 5 qts of ATF even though the official fill is 5.3 qts. I used a long oil funnel and the tube from a turkey baster on the end. Anything will do as long as you can get the oil in there.