Ok is it just me but my 2007/2008 now 100k miles and this is my 3rd water pump

 

That's highly unusual unless you're replacing them with used original brushed ones or any kind of brushed pump. If they're the new brushless ones they shouldn't be failing that fast. If you are sure it's the pump not working I would check the connections to them for corrosion, shorts, fraying, etc I haven't really heard of them commonly failing after being replaced with brushless ones unless maybe you're going aftermarket cheapos. I would also be looking and seeing if there was a pinched or collapsed hose for the mecs system or if you possibly need to flush the radiator for it, but my coolant in there is 8years 177k and it doesn't overheat in summer.

 

I'll keep that in mind if their is a 4th unit needed. Luckily the 1st went rather fast and they've all been since done under warranty. But it yes is to many to me as well

 

Engine water pump or MECS water pump?

 

It's the engine water pump. Most of my regular driving is hwy so the EV side of it is used less

 

It's the engine water pump. Most of my regular driving is hwy so the EV side of it is used less

 

K, I replaced my engine water pump on spec when I had a lot of miles on it. You might look at the tensioner for the serpentine belt. If it was way too strong that could cause the seal to fail. Beyond that...? But you know... when I did that replacement the OEM pump was awful to get out. It was such a tight fit into the block that the o-ring wouldn't let it move. Eventually walked it out. You might take a look at what your mechanic is doing... he might be inducing the failures by what he does to get the new one in.
Noted that the replacement pump was a few thousandths smaller diameter, so don't anticipate the same problem next time.

 

With it being the engine water pump I would say that's highly abnormal and I would start looking for a cause. Sometimes using the wrong coolant will actually eat through the impeller and then with no flow the truck overheats. I would say with how many it has gone through and the warranty being up that a flush is warranted.

How I flushed mine was to add reverse osmosis water (distilled is recommended, I just happen to have an RO system available). Basically you do a drain and fill twice with RO or distilled. That will get your coolant system to roughly 5-10% content since you have around 8.5 quarts in the engine and remove about 5 quarts at a crack. The one thing with the Escape is that you have to drive it around the block spiritedly until it burps the system, don't ask me why, but letting it idle for 15 minutes with the defrost on will not burp it nor will revving it up in park/neutral.

If you are doing this either do it when it is warm enough to be safe or keep the engine relatively warm the whole time, ice can destroy and entire engine. I used full strenth Zerex z-05 antifreeze. You want to use full strength since you are only draining out half your antifreeze at a time.

For the third and final drain drain out only a gallon of antifreeze, it's a pain, but that way you get it right, I just used a gallon just, an oil funnel and let it drain in until full then shut it off. That way all you have to do is put the gallon in, with associated burping of course. As always when burping you want your heat settings on maximum, you should feel when it burps successfully and when filling the reservoir have it just a little below the fill hole and then half screw on the cap so it can't slosh everywhere and make a mess and kill animals. Make sure to properly dispose of your antifreeze. Where I am you take it to the drop off point at a sewage treatment plant, your situation may vary.