<<What leads up to the main title is in the middle. If you just want to know the facts, skip down to the blue section. If you want to know the whole story that led up to the title, keep on reading...>>

I've had my radar detector mounted in my car for a while now. I have it hooked up with it's suction cup mount, on the windshield right between the rearview mirror and the ceiling. Nice discreet site. Easy for me to see while in the car, nearly impossible for someone outside the car to see. Not being visible helps prevent a "smash and grab." No broken (expensive) glass replacement. No stolen radar detector.

So anyways, I've had the power cable running from the detector, straight down to the dash power outlet. So, now the detector isn't quite "invisible" to outside eyes.

Today, I decided to get off my butt and install it properly. At first, I was thinking I could just tap into the power source that goes into the overhead console. I unscrewed the two screws that's in the sunglasses bin, to no avail. The back end of it moves freely, but the front is still snugly secure.

So, I notice the panel that holds the Homelink and the microphone is loose. So I pry that piece out, one at a time. It disassembled into four separate pieces. After I get all of that out of the opening, I see that the wires that go into that unit are really small gauge and very very short leads. They barely came out of the opening in the ceiling! Workable, but not desireable. So, I go to reassemble the unit. That's when I realized all four pieces actually is one whole piece! So, I assemble all four pieces together before finally plugging in the wiring harness and snapping it back into place in the ceiling console.

Okay, now to look for an alternate power source. As I'm sitting in the driver seat, I realize I can just run the wire into the headliner, down the A frame panel via the door gasket, into the dash area, and right to the fuse box! At least this way, I'm guaranteed to have a switching power source connected to the accessories (for those that don't know what that means, it's how the cigarette lighter plugs only come on when the key is on). That way the detector can cycle through power-ons and if I forget to turn it off, it won't drain my battery.

So, as I finally get the wire run under the dash, I go to remove the cover that's over the pedals. When I get my head under there, I then have a sense of concern that overwhelms me!

Under the dash, I discover several pieces of plastic connected to not so random wires. I don't know the official term for them, but when I was installing car stereos and alarms, we used to call them Scotch Locks. They're a quick connect piece of plastic that folds in half, over a wire, and has a piece of metal with a slot that fits around the wire, puncturing the insulation and making a contact with the bare wire on the inside. After they're connected, there's an opening to plug in a spade connector. It's a quick and easy way to tap into any given wire. The problem is they're very unreliable. I've always avoided using them. But under my dash, they're everywhere!!

I say it's not random, because by the looks of it, the connectors are tapped into constant power, switched power, interior lights, etc. So, previous to me buying my car, someone had an alarm installed. And most likely a 'remote start' alarm.

When I bought my car, it had 140 something miles. It was new, but it was a dealer exchange. The Navi had Applebees, one other place that I can't remember, and the dealership that I purchased my car from listed in the Previous Destinations section.

So, by the looks of it, someone could have bought the car, had an alarm installed, had their financing fall through (or, decide NOT to buy the car and got out of the deal), and had the alarm removed so they could return the car.

This led me to a few realizations that disturbed me. First, some (possibly) inexperienced knucklehead in a stereo installation shop has been under the dash of my car, messing with the electronics. By the looks of it, the work looked shoddy. Amature, at best.

Second, if there was in fact a previous owner, when they realized they had to return the car, the possibility that they treated the car as a rental comes to light. Abusive driving during break in is never a good thing.

And third! What if the car had problems! Say, the hypothetical previous owner bought the car, had problems with it, and then returned the car for another? Then, in an effort to make the car marketable again, fixed the problem. But, maybe whatever they fixed, was a symptom and not a cause? And the problem may resurface again in the future??

Okay, now I know I'm just worrying myself with unneeded concern. I've had this car for 6K miles now. I haven't noticed a single thing wrong with it yet. I suppose I'm just venting. I should just STFU and go back to enjoying my car...

 

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It's not just one harness. It's several, as the wires needed to install a multi functional remote start alarm are routed through several wiring looms. If I recall correctly, I believe I saw four separate looms/harnesses that were tapped into.

Since the actual wires aren't cut, I don't think this would be something I could successfully pursue. Only the insulation was removed/cut.

 

That wouldn't be hard to accomplish. I'd need a schematic to do it the easy way. Find all the remote turn on wires. Possibly, one on each the head unit, the CDROM unit, etc. And plug them into a power source that's on when the key is in the "run" position and doesn't shut off when the car is switched to "start."

Or, just tap them into constant +12V. But then, you'd have to remember to turn it off every time you shut down the car!

Of course, this is just a simplistic view. I'm sure it's much harder when you've got your head under the dash.

 

You should see my wires for my gauges. I have wire taps on wire taps to branch out wires. You going to go under there some day and fix the mess?

 

No. The taps are on there. Taking them off just leaves bare metal. As long as they don't corrode, they should be fine.

The problem comes from the taps backing off the tapped wire. If the wire moves around a lot for whatever reason, they can become disconnected from the main wire, and not receive (or deliver) power to the accessory. I've seen it happen. It's rare, but does happen.

The wires under my dash don't move around. And besides, nothing's being tapped off of any of them anymore. I don't think they'll cause any concern. At this time, it would probably do more damage to remove them.

 

My preferred method to tap into wires:

Use thermal tweezers to remove the insulation. The strands of wire have a natural twist. Untwist them just a bit so that the strands can be separated into two halves. Take the new wire, run it between the two separated strands. Twist together. Apply flux. Apply solder. Nice connection that doesn't pull apart! And the best part is the original wire isn't cut. And although I've never had to test this, since the wires are never cut, then the car is still under it's full factory warranty.

 

If nothing else, I would take the car into the dealer and show them the not-so-handiwork that is there, and mention your disappointment in their inability to find/disclose its presence. Not stick their nose in it, but any good manager would appreciate some feedback from a knowledgeable customer.

You may be able to get a courtesy system inspection or something- can't hurt to try.

 

Also, if they noted it in their database (which I'm sure they have). They can't void your warranty by saying you did the work.

 

I think the moral of your story is to drive the speed limit so you won't need a radar detector...
Alster