12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
#21
01-03-2010, 09:12 PM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
McGyver, good move putting the old GSM battery to use. What do you use your solar panel project for?
I read - probably in another forum - that someone was proposing using the old, not quite dead, hybrid battery packs in battery farms that would store unused electricity for the utilities. Sounds like the old packs will be put to use like your GSM battery.
I read - probably in another forum - that someone was proposing using the old, not quite dead, hybrid battery packs in battery farms that would store unused electricity for the utilities. Sounds like the old packs will be put to use like your GSM battery.
#22
01-05-2010, 07:37 AM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Captain Jim here. In reply to the question "did I vent the Optima 12 volt AGM battery." the answer is no. An AGM does not need to be vented as such. Certainly not with the low charge / discharge that is required for the 12 volt battery. Heck, it does not even get used to spin the starter. The High Voltage battery does that! It simply runs the computer to start the whole thing up. And then powers the 12 volt systems, headlights, radio, electronics, etc. The AC is powered from the High Voltage battery also, not the 12 volt system. I have no reservation on the Optima 12 volt battery installation. Jc
The only reason to vent the Optima is that it is possible that a failure of the systems could allow a high current into or out of the 12v battery. A pressure buildup could then open the vent valve cousing a release. This is an unlikely event, but it is possible. Why not vent the battery as it is easy to do with the elearnaid kit. Your choice, but as my battery shares air space with me in my Prius, I choose to vent the 12v battery.
JeffD
#24
01-27-2010, 09:09 AM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Optima Batteries D35 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery
#25
01-30-2010, 06:46 AM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Looking at the Optima site the D34appears to be the highest reserve cap and amp hours that will probably fit.
The D31 is nearly 3 in longer and nearly 1 1/2in taller. So, where would I put it?
http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/
Part Number: D34 (8012-021)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Group D34; Cold Crank Amps 750; Crank Amps 870; Reserve Capacity 120; Ampere Hour 55; Top Terminal; L-10 in.; W-6 7/8 in.; H-7 13/16 in.;
Part Number: D31A (8051-160)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Grp. D31A; Cold Crank Amps 900; Crank Amps 1125; Res. Capacity 155; Ampere Hour 75; Top Terminal; L-12 13/16 in.; W-6.5 in.; H-9 3/8 in.;
on edit:
I found the battery finder on the optima site and the 2007 Camry Hybrid shows a recommended battery of
Part Number: D35 (8040-218)
YellowTop®; Deep Cycle Battery; UNBOXED; Grp. D35; Cold Crank Amps 620; Crank Amps 770; Reserve Capacity 100; Amp Hour 48; Top Terminal; L-9 5/16 in.; W-6 3/4 in.; H-7 5/8 in.;
Which is the one Captain Jim used.
battery finder
http://www.optimabatteries.com/battery_selector/
Last edited by Ken07TCH; 01-30-2010 at 07:52 AM.
#26
04-07-2010, 06:37 PM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Battery lifespan tends to be tightly bound to temperature. The warmer the environment, the shorter the lifespan (for the types of temps expected to be encountered for the application).
A battery in a temperature controlled environment such as an equipment room held between 60 to 70 degrees F, can be expected to last up to 10 years or more. I've seen this with my backup generator start batteries, essentially very big 12 volt units.
A battery in a temperature controlled environment such as an equipment room held between 60 to 70 degrees F, can be expected to last up to 10 years or more. I've seen this with my backup generator start batteries, essentially very big 12 volt units.
I live in Fla. where with a lead acid battery sitting inside the engine compartment we're lucky to get 2 years. However, with the AGM battey in the trunk & protected from the heat of the engine--it doesn't make sense to me that I should only get 3 1/2 years from this battery. Everyone seems to indicate the amount of work this battery has to perform is minimal at best when compared to a typical lead acid battery. My 2 cents for whatever it's worth.
#27
04-08-2010, 08:31 AM
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Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Three years old and 30,000 miles, is a reasonable time to replace a 12 volt battery.
Mine died in my driveway, thus giving me more options than 100 miles away from home.
In the end the battery measured 1.7 volts, not the typical 12 volts, the battery gave me signs that it was dying, the key would not start the car twice about 10 days before the battery quit. It was a omen of bills to come, I just didn't know it.
Having the time to research the OEM Panasonic S65D26R battery, I found that the S65D26R is an AGM type battey, and costs $320.00 from Toyota. Paying Toyota this amount of money would NOT be my first choice. The battery warranty is somewhat like the tire warranty, independant of, and outside of, the overall Toyota warranty. What so much? Well the OEM Toyota battery is an AGM, Absorbed Glass Mat battery. An AGM differs from the typical lead acid battery as it has an absorptive material between the positive and negative plate of each cell separating it and allowing the liquid electrolyte to contact both material, you may think of it a providing a 99 to 100% humidity inside of each the six, 2.1 volt cells that make up the 12.6 volt battery. Since they are sealed, they will not vent to the atmosphere and loose their moisture, unless there is a dramatic pressure differential (this happens very rarely) , and then a small pressure relief valve will monetarily open. Since this is in your trunk space, an AGM is the best overall choice.
Battery websites, like Interstate battery say that I could replace my battery with a typical lead acid battery for about $75 bucks. This is a real option, you just need to know that you may have battery fumes in your trunk from it.
But there is a two wire connector that also comes out of the OEM Toyota battery. This is a temperature sensor, it measures 2.27 kilo ohms FYI. It is meant to monitor the temperature at the battery to prevent over charging. You remove it from the OEM battery by pealing back the top sticker, and by using a small screwdriver on the hot glue, pry and pop the sensor free.
I chose to put in an Optima yellow top Starting Deep Cycle, size D35 with bottom spacer battery, it cost $225.00
these are the batteries that are used in Alaska, and they last 7+ years.
You will need a 10 mm 1/4" drive socket and extension.
There is enough space and wire to have the positive and negative terminals in front, or in the rear, as you mount the battery.
I attached the sensor to the battery with a tie wrap to the hold down bar, and mounted the connector with double sided tape.
There will be a spark as you make the final connection, this is normal.
Since you removed the 12 volt battery, the "Check Hybrid system" message will appear on the console. I just power cycle the car three times and it will reset the computer and remove the message.
It is Ok to send a message to me via email. Jc
Three years old and 30,000 miles, is a reasonable time to replace a 12 volt battery.
Mine died in my driveway, thus giving me more options than 100 miles away from home.
In the end the battery measured 1.7 volts, not the typical 12 volts, the battery gave me signs that it was dying, the key would not start the car twice about 10 days before the battery quit. It was a omen of bills to come, I just didn't know it.
Having the time to research the OEM Panasonic S65D26R battery, I found that the S65D26R is an AGM type battey, and costs $320.00 from Toyota. Paying Toyota this amount of money would NOT be my first choice. The battery warranty is somewhat like the tire warranty, independant of, and outside of, the overall Toyota warranty. What so much? Well the OEM Toyota battery is an AGM, Absorbed Glass Mat battery. An AGM differs from the typical lead acid battery as it has an absorptive material between the positive and negative plate of each cell separating it and allowing the liquid electrolyte to contact both material, you may think of it a providing a 99 to 100% humidity inside of each the six, 2.1 volt cells that make up the 12.6 volt battery. Since they are sealed, they will not vent to the atmosphere and loose their moisture, unless there is a dramatic pressure differential (this happens very rarely) , and then a small pressure relief valve will monetarily open. Since this is in your trunk space, an AGM is the best overall choice.
Battery websites, like Interstate battery say that I could replace my battery with a typical lead acid battery for about $75 bucks. This is a real option, you just need to know that you may have battery fumes in your trunk from it.
But there is a two wire connector that also comes out of the OEM Toyota battery. This is a temperature sensor, it measures 2.27 kilo ohms FYI. It is meant to monitor the temperature at the battery to prevent over charging. You remove it from the OEM battery by pealing back the top sticker, and by using a small screwdriver on the hot glue, pry and pop the sensor free.
I chose to put in an Optima yellow top Starting Deep Cycle, size D35 with bottom spacer battery, it cost $225.00
these are the batteries that are used in Alaska, and they last 7+ years.
You will need a 10 mm 1/4" drive socket and extension.
There is enough space and wire to have the positive and negative terminals in front, or in the rear, as you mount the battery.
I attached the sensor to the battery with a tie wrap to the hold down bar, and mounted the connector with double sided tape.
There will be a spark as you make the final connection, this is normal.
Since you removed the 12 volt battery, the "Check Hybrid system" message will appear on the console. I just power cycle the car three times and it will reset the computer and remove the message.
It is Ok to send a message to me via email. Jc
Would you replace your car audio system's 8 ohm speakers with 4 ohm ones without being certain the amplifier would not be damaged...??
The new battery's internal resistance to charging might be RADICALLY different than the OEM one.
#28
01-23-2011, 12:19 PM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
I'm having the problem on my 2009 Highlander Hybrid, and i'm an old Sears Die Hard fan. After reading both good and bad about the optima, I turned to Consumer Reports. The best buy for both amps and charging turned out to be the $59 Kirkland Premium battery from Costco. The only think higher was the $180 Sears DieHard (ultimate or something like that). Our local Costco and Shucks (now O'Rielly Autoparts) carried the Optima. There is lots of cautions from those purchased an Optima over the internet and could not return it after 6 months because of a mailing restriction.
I haven't installed the new Kirkland battery yet because I'm looking to see if there is a certain way to do it or reset computer settings. So far I haven't found any advice one way or the other.
I haven't installed the new Kirkland battery yet because I'm looking to see if there is a certain way to do it or reset computer settings. So far I haven't found any advice one way or the other.
#29
01-24-2011, 06:46 AM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Croisan, I too was a big Diehard fan, but that 40 years ago. They were the best batteries! Now Sears, (Diehard) is owned by Kmart. But even before that, the Diehard has long lost its luster. One of the key points you are missing is that both batteries you are considering are vented standard lead acid batteries, not AGM batteries as is the OEM battery. They gas hydrogen and supheric acid when discharging/charging and that would be venting directly into the sealed trunk of your car. The standard lead acid battery in the typical car is not what is called for here. Will it work? Sure. But even if the venting issue was not a problem, the longevity issue would out weigh all else, you need either the OEM battery, or an Optima type, AGM replacement. There are other GREAT Optima type, AGM batteries out there, or just stick with a proven winner the Optima. Price and performance is the issue over cost. You don't spend $30K on a car to screw it up by saving $100. Jc
And to respond to Wwest, first WOW... I've never heard of anyone bringing up "internal resistance" of car battery as replacement criteria. Bravo for knowing that such a thing exists. Just FYI everyone, "internal resistance" when referring to a car battery is what limits the amount of short circuit current the battery can produce if you were to say drop a wrench across the batteries terminals. it is in simple terms, the instantious current capacity of the battery which is limited by the batteries internal resistance. With that said, this does not mean sh_t when buying a 12 volt battery for your hybrid. I need to digress here to explain where a batteries "internal resistance" would come into play. In a past life, I installed and maintained large UPS battery banks, 320 to 700 volts DC, made up of battery strings tied together. Internal interconnection resistance of the battery was important, and was measured every three months using a micro ohm meter, and other now other outdated equipment. In these battery strings, the internal resistance of the individual batteries was important and was measured, again every three months. Here is why, if one of the batteries in the strings resistance went up that batteries heat also went up and so the cycle would begin to spiral out of control until we had an explosion of the cell, destruction of the battery post, connection or top, acid spill and/or fire with the inevitable power failure and system crash. Replacing one battery with another battery whose internal resistance that did not match the existing string was the same as leaving a batteries terminal loose, it was a failure in the making. And it never ever occurred from 9am to 5pm. In these battery banks you could not interchange another battery manufacturers batteries into a string. Because, the different manufacturers had different internal resistances, and... at times different battery chemistries! Not all batteries are just lead and acid. Some are doped with chemicals such as antimony, which are used to make the the battery more suited for, (hot / cold) (instantaneous high current / long term continuous current) and the different doping transmits the doping material to the batteries electrolyte, (water) and can, if you were to mix with other battery chemistries and can contaminate entire battery rooms and prematurely destroy complete systems.
So "internal resistance" as a factor when buying a single stand alone hybrid battery, Phooey.
And to respond to Wwest, first WOW... I've never heard of anyone bringing up "internal resistance" of car battery as replacement criteria. Bravo for knowing that such a thing exists. Just FYI everyone, "internal resistance" when referring to a car battery is what limits the amount of short circuit current the battery can produce if you were to say drop a wrench across the batteries terminals. it is in simple terms, the instantious current capacity of the battery which is limited by the batteries internal resistance. With that said, this does not mean sh_t when buying a 12 volt battery for your hybrid. I need to digress here to explain where a batteries "internal resistance" would come into play. In a past life, I installed and maintained large UPS battery banks, 320 to 700 volts DC, made up of battery strings tied together. Internal interconnection resistance of the battery was important, and was measured every three months using a micro ohm meter, and other now other outdated equipment. In these battery strings, the internal resistance of the individual batteries was important and was measured, again every three months. Here is why, if one of the batteries in the strings resistance went up that batteries heat also went up and so the cycle would begin to spiral out of control until we had an explosion of the cell, destruction of the battery post, connection or top, acid spill and/or fire with the inevitable power failure and system crash. Replacing one battery with another battery whose internal resistance that did not match the existing string was the same as leaving a batteries terminal loose, it was a failure in the making. And it never ever occurred from 9am to 5pm. In these battery banks you could not interchange another battery manufacturers batteries into a string. Because, the different manufacturers had different internal resistances, and... at times different battery chemistries! Not all batteries are just lead and acid. Some are doped with chemicals such as antimony, which are used to make the the battery more suited for, (hot / cold) (instantaneous high current / long term continuous current) and the different doping transmits the doping material to the batteries electrolyte, (water) and can, if you were to mix with other battery chemistries and can contaminate entire battery rooms and prematurely destroy complete systems.
So "internal resistance" as a factor when buying a single stand alone hybrid battery, Phooey.
Last edited by Captain Jim; 01-25-2011 at 06:42 AM.
#30
01-24-2011, 07:10 AM
Re: 12 Volt Battery Replacement / Upgrade on a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid with photos
Croisan, FAIL....stop
If it's going in the trunk it should be a AGM battery. If you install a conventional battery you will be breathing hydrogen sulfide.
If it's going in the trunk it should be a AGM battery. If you install a conventional battery you will be breathing hydrogen sulfide.
