Hi all, first time posting and first time to this board was last week. Have been searching board for solutions to this check hybrid system and haven't found any solid leads yet.
Long story short: have a 2007 hybrid camry I'm working on (not mine). Have reconditioned battery pack (replaced 2 cells myself) but still get check hybrid system.
Long story not short: This car is not mine, it belongs to a friend who received it as a gift from some other friends. The original owner drove it until it started throwing codes for replacing battery pack. Dealer wanted 4 grand so the original owners decided it wasn't worth it and just bought new vehicles (I think they actually had two identical 2007 hybrid camry's!). They gave this one to Jenn and then sold the other I think.
Jenn, drove it until it wouldn't even start. She was a broke college kid so I looked into it and found out you could clean the bus bars and replace cells if needed. I pulled the whole battery pack apart and found one cell at 2.5V and another at around 6.8V. All other cells were at 7.5 or 7.4V. I cleaned all the bus bars and replaced the washer nuts with new ones. I read in another post you can clean the bus bars with muriatic acid. Wish I had thought about that before the hours of cleaning
As best I can tell, the problem with the bus bars corroding is that the voltage probes that run back into the Denso voltage sensor module can't read voltage through the corrosion. I'm assuming this sensor module measures differential voltage between the adjacent cells? Or maybe it measures with reference to ground? Either way I measured around 14V between each adjacent set of probes at the pins going into the connector on the sensor module. I did not load test the cells but I will if I need to (although I dread pulling that battery pack back out now). I did measure about 253 V going into the HV relay assembly once the service plug was back in.
I haven't been able to pull any codes with a OBDLink MX scan tool. I'm not sure if the techstream software will work with that module but the software I've used so far can't get me anything useful. If this scan module won't work with this car I was looking at ones on ebay for around $40 so I can pull codes and get more info.
This car is not in the best shape (interior and exterior) plus it hasn't been well maintained since poor college kid has been driving it for a while (needs tires, brakes, probably all fluids changed). Based on the other posts I've read in this forum, it seems it could have other costly problems (water pump, coolant system, brakes...). She can now afford to replace the battery pack but my advice to her was to let me get it running with the reconditioned battery pack first, then drive it for a while to make sure no other problems pop up.
If anyone has advice on getting codes (especially using the OBDLink MX) or other things to try I would appreciate it! If not, I will order a tool from ebay and see what I find.
Things I have tried: Charged 12V battery, tried jumping 12V battery from another car, reset ECU from scan tool, tried the emergency starting by holding power button for 15+ seconds (does that ever work?). On the MIS, the battery shows as level 1 according to the owners manual (lowest it can go without showing an empty battery). It started out as level 8 I think after a reset and then dropped to level 1. I guess that means it thinks the battery is dead or does it do some kind of load test?