Well guys, I spent the morning and afternoon with the Camry. Whew! This one's a challenge. Got a few codes keeping it from starting. P0A09, P0AE6, P2159. Hybrid Battery looks great. New 12v. Low miles.
The troubleshooting guide has a nice list of things to check for these codes.
The previous Tech who looked at it, did a good job. He was definitely on the right track. Got as far as checking specs on the main wiring harness. A few things not quite right. Going to involve some more time/effort to resolve.
If anyone else is up for the challenge, someone may be able to talk Rich into letting you buy it off him and you can finish the job. Nice looking Camry, just needs someone with a little extra time to walk through the diagnostic guides.

 

Eric,

Are you sure about the P2159 code? I would tend to think you would have a P2519 code. Just wondering if you transposed 2 digits.

David

By the way, you could have multiple issues on that car but I would check to see exactly WHERE the car was hit and if the wiring harness could have been pinched at that point. Another thing to check is to find out where the body shop guys hooked to the car and make sure their hydraulic puller didn't pinch a wiring harness.

 

Ha, ha. Yes. P2519.

Here are the codes that are still present that need to be addressed:
P0A09 DC/DC Converter status Circuit Low Input
P0AE6 Hybrid battery contactor curcuit Low
P2519 A/C Request "A" Circuit

It certainly points to a harness issue. There are some things that were nicked, including things on the inverter harness. I did some probing of A61, the Hybrid Vehicle Control ECU harness. IGCT and SMRP lines back at the battery pack (n4) and the harness itself (On1)

The crash was a basically running into a pole dead center of the hood. Some sensors have been replaced was my understanding. I should mention that the HV battery itself, still looks like it is in good health. vblocks all look good at rest and when car is powered up. It'd have enough juice to start the car if it would go into Ready mode. There were other little issues and anomalies. For instance, the pull-down handle on A61, that snugs the connector up tight, was broken off.

With enough time the problem will be able to be tracked down. But paying a professional tech like me (or the dealer) an hourly rate will be a bit expensive. I think the dealer may have quoted somewhere around $6,000?

Right now the car is non-running in the customer's garage 45 minutes away from my shop so that is an additional challenge.

This is going to be one of those headscratchers until we finally turn up the missing link. I was hoping it would become obvious quickly, but unfortunately it was not the case this time.

 

Those run between $10 and 12K on craigslist. This is definitely not a helpful post, but is it feasible to repair? For that much of $$. With potential of something else showing itself down the road?
If at all possible, I'd have taken insurance money and sell as is.

 

This is a situation where the OP bought a car from an insurance auction because it appeared on the surface to be an easy fix and a good deal. Often bidders can come out ahead in this kind of calculated risk.
Unfortunately it has turned out to be a bigger challenge than it appeared. And much more expensive.

 

Eric, I have been very busy this week but I will call you the first time I have a break.....

 

Thanks guys for your continued help. I am still hopeful this situation can be solved. I just don't think any of the harnesses got pinched from the accident. The car stArted when it was pushed in and after the repairs were done. Then a connection or component went bad. As I emailed Eric, all 3 codes show a bad dc/dc converter as a possible problem. Can that component be checked if I take it out of the car? Just trying to rule it out. Thanks

 

dc/dc can be a possibility. But a dc/dc converter suddenly going bad in the rear of the car that had a front end collision is out of the ordinary. Right now your car was not able to go into ready mode.

I know I sent this via email, but for other people to know, using MiniVCI or other factory Toyota-aware scanner along with Techstream is very helpful. Also paying for a subscription to Toyota Technical Information System (TIS) https://techinfo.toyota.com/ This has all the schematics and technical tests. Great, detailed info on each system. Only $75 for a month. $400 for a whole year.

 

You can also use AllData or Mitchel's for a tech manual.

 

FYI
Original poster is selling this car for about $8,000 obo if anyone is interested.