Please help. After doing coolant flush on Camry hybrid. I flush the system from radiator and then from engine block got all coolant out. Then I added new coolant and burb the radiator hoses. After that I drove the car and the temp gauge went high the car over heated. I stopped let it cool down. Took car car again then opened the thermostat put it on the stove and it opened. The radiator hoses the top hose is very hot and the bottom hose is warm but top hose I can't keep my hands on it because too hot bottom hose u can keep my hands on it. Please help me I had no problems with overheating I have almost 100k miles decided to do the coolant flush I used sllc from toyota dealer. I know it's not the thermostat. My friend has camry and when in touch both the top hose and bottom hose on the radiator they seem to be both the same temp. I don't know what going on any help would be appreciated.

 

more burping.

 

i did more burbing the hoses. I noticed that my heater is blowing cold air. I turn heater full blast nothing but cold air. The temp gauge is in the middle when I take the car for ride it over heats and no heat coming out of the heater. Top hose is very hot. Checked the thermostat was good. I don't know if the water pump is good. No leaks in the system.

 

Read my post in the other thread about changing your hybrid system coolant.

As an aside, if you pull a thermostat out, just go ahead and replace it, they only cost $10 or $11 to replace and it might save you a long wait on the side of the road later. Just placing in hot water will not tell you if they are opening at too low or too high of a temp.

I think that you still have air in your system or a blockage although the hose temps you are noting indicate the thermostat isn't opening. Are you positive you have it in correctly? Go back and re-read the water pump change DIY about filling the system.

 

i didn't have any overheating problems until I did coolant flush. Maybe I have air in te system. I didn't take the water pump out. I only took thermostat out. The hose on top is very hot and the bottom hose is warm. Do you think I need a new thermostat. I did put the heat on high and put car on maintaince mode. Now my heater is ok it's bowing hot air. And I don't know if the car will overheat.

 

Did you add coolant to the radiator or to the coolant tank when you originally filled the radiator? If you just added it to the tank, you will more than likely need to wait until the car is COMPLETELY cool, remove the radiator cap, and THEN start the engine, put into maint. mode, turn the heater on high and make sure all of the air is out of the system and fill the radiator. You can then put the cap back onto the radiator and fill the tank on the side of the car to the cold line. You should then be OK. Once it cools off again, you might have to add some additional coolant to the tank to get it to the cold mark but it should be free of air at that point.

NOTE !!!!! DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT OR EVEN SLIGHTLY WARM !!!!

You can get some VERY severe burns and if you don't know what you are doing, ask a pro for some help. By "pro" I am referring to an auto tech, not a local hooker.....

 

I fill the radiator first then after that I turn the car on and did all of the burning. At the end I add to the reservoir tank coolant. My car has heat now . But the only problem is high Jose is very hot and low hose is warm aren't they suppose to be same temp or does te high hose have to be hotter because hot coolant is coming off the engine . And I don't know if the car will over heat now the only thing left is to test it . Thank you for helping me

 

One hose will be hot coolant from the engine going into the radiator. The other hose will be cooled coolant that goes back into the engine to cool it down. If they were the same temp, your radiator would not be doing its job (radiating heat out of the coolant into the air)

 

Well, not to argue with GH, but when engine is full warm and thermostat is full open, both hoses should be roughly same temperature. Radiator only maintains coolant temp at a specific level. ICE-s are designed to run at specific temp, not cold. T-stat sort of monitors that temp by closing and opening continuously. Actually, by retarding - or not - coolant flow.
SO MAJOR difference in temperature between the hoses at proper operational temp points towards blockage somewhere.

 

Maybe he put the thermostat in backwards?

I always measure the amount of coolant I take out and make sure to get at least that much back in FWIW...