Water pump replacement "How To"
#21
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
Mine has only been on for the past 15,000 or 20,000 miles. Based on past experiance with their pumps however, they will last easily to the 150,000 mile mark and beyond.
#22
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
OK. I'll keep that in mind, thank you. Mine is way out of dealer warranty, has over 18 mths on it. 30 000 miles. Maybe I am just freaking out over that level. Can't find any signs of leakage anywhere.
#24
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
I changed water pump finally! Just wanted to say thank you guys. It went easy with all instructions on this thread (and by snook*** on TN). What gave me very hard time was one of the bolts on pulley. It wouldn't move and I tried really hard. I don't have the tools GeorgiaHybrid has and that showed up. I bent several allen wrenches!! Finally I had to use PB Blaster or whatever it is called and then it came in two shots so maybe this thing indeed worked. In my case slightly over 4L of total coolant came out (around 4L by draining it while water pump just added maybe 1/4L to 1/2L). Putting this stuff back was easy - if you go slow you can put almost all the amount back and this is what I did. Thanks again - saved about $450 because of you guys .
Edit: Car is TCH 2007 and had 90K miles on it. I could see crystals from top so must have been leaking slowly for sometime.
Edit: Car is TCH 2007 and had 90K miles on it. I could see crystals from top so must have been leaking slowly for sometime.
Last edited by alpha_1976; 09-16-2013 at 06:19 AM.
#26
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
Ron,
I think they redesigned the water pump but to be honest about it, I consider them a "consumable" item that should be changed aound the 100,000 mile mark. On a car with a timing belt, I always changed them when the belt was replaced. For this car however, the engine uses a chain that does not need to be replaced as often.
I went back with a Japanese made (but not OEM) pump that uses a gasket as I HATE RTV with a passion. The only thing worse is anti-seize which has the same problem, it gets on everything before I'm done with it.
I think they redesigned the water pump but to be honest about it, I consider them a "consumable" item that should be changed aound the 100,000 mile mark. On a car with a timing belt, I always changed them when the belt was replaced. For this car however, the engine uses a chain that does not need to be replaced as often.
I went back with a Japanese made (but not OEM) pump that uses a gasket as I HATE RTV with a passion. The only thing worse is anti-seize which has the same problem, it gets on everything before I'm done with it.
What brand was the pump and where did you get it? I'm leaning toward aftermarket, for the same reason as you.
Thanks!
#28
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
GeorgiaHybrid - thank you for the writeup. I just completed this water pump replacement, but did not have to perform several of the steps in this writeup.
I didn't remove any of the wheels and only removed the passenger side lower engine cover. I was able to reach over to the radiator petcock and there is a hole in the driver's side lower engine cover to allow the coolant to drain straight through the cover. I didn't bother looking for the engine block drain petcock and didn't touch it - there was still a bit of coolant that dripped out when I removed the thermostat housing and the water pump, but I kept my pan underneath to catch that.
I also only removed the black engine mount stay, but did not touch the control rod or engine mount bracket.
Also, all the nuts/bolts holding the water pump to the block are 10mm.
I didn't remove any of the wheels and only removed the passenger side lower engine cover. I was able to reach over to the radiator petcock and there is a hole in the driver's side lower engine cover to allow the coolant to drain straight through the cover. I didn't bother looking for the engine block drain petcock and didn't touch it - there was still a bit of coolant that dripped out when I removed the thermostat housing and the water pump, but I kept my pan underneath to catch that.
I also only removed the black engine mount stay, but did not touch the control rod or engine mount bracket.
Also, all the nuts/bolts holding the water pump to the block are 10mm.
#29
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
I cheat when doing mine. With a lift in my home garage, I can remove the items you left on, have more room to work and less chances to bust a knuckle.... In most cases you can beat the time of someone that leaves them on depending on power tools, problem fasteners, etc but you have shown that there is more than one way to skin a Camry.
The main thing is that you did it yourself and saved the money for something else.
The main thing is that you did it yourself and saved the money for something else.
#30
Re: Water pump replacement "How To"
I installed a GMB 170-2470 in mine a few thousand miles ago. It was only a fraction of the price of the OEM pump. It did require that I purchase a little tube of silicone sealant though.