Just did an oil change and noticed the pink flecks in the engine bay. They're very minimal. Looks like I'll be doing a water pump soon. Thanks to georgiahybrid, ukrkoz, and snookwhaler from TN.

My NAPA/Toyota parts desk is closed tomorrow. I can probably source a water pump from Canadian Tire tomorrow (Sunday). The problem is the other parts.

I have a few questions:
1) What're your feelings on using non-toyota coolant? Is this a big deal? I'd prefer to stick with the SLLC, but maybe I'm just being ****.

2) Should I change the serpentine belt now as well? My TCH has 165,000 km (~10300miles). Again, feel like I should pick up a toyota part here.

3) Any tips/tools I should pick up to make this job easier. Looks like keeping the pulley stationary is the key to this job.

I'm away from home the next two weeks, so I'm contemplating doing the job tomorrow. I could just watch the reservoir level and top up as needed right?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

1) I still prefer Toyota SLLC (pink) over anything else.

2) Go ahead and change the belt, it is cheap insurance unless you enjoy sitting on the side of the road. It can be very relaxing sitting there watching the other cars drive by.

3) A strap or chain wrench for the pulley will make the job go easier but you can get around it by using a large screwdriver or small prybar.

If your leak isn't too bad, you could wait a few weeks before changing the pump.

 

Thanks GH, appreciate the help. Will be doing this in the upcoming weeks (with a new serpentine belt). Picked up a pump (ASC) and belt (Continental brand). The water pump I picked up comes with a paper gasket but I plan to use the RTV.

Will wait for Toyota and get the SLLC. I'm going to look around for a strap wrench could come in handy with other jobs around the house.

Appreciate the help! Will keep you guys posted on how it goes.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong... But aren't parts to be sealed with liquid gasket designed differently on mating surfaces than those made for paper gaskets? As in - have grooves for silicone to go in?
Reason I'm saying this is engine block in TCH is made for silicone gasket your pump is made for paper gasket.
Just my two pennies.

 

ukrkoz,


The block on the Camry is not grooved. You are thinking about the silicone gaskets that can be reused that fit in a groove on the engine or part. On the Camry, a paper gasket , paper gasket with sealer or a RTV gasket can be used. All of the mating surfaces are smooth finished.

 

So got the job done today (water pump +thermostat). Wife and I cancelled our vacation plans due to the concerns over Zika.

My father in law (a mechanic) suggested the 'Right Stuff' for the gasket maker (in additino to the paper gasket). I couldn't find a tube of it at my local auto parts store so I just went with regular permatex.

I'm by no means a gearhead and this job was pretty straight forward.
Job took me 5 hours (including a drive to the canadian tire). I didn't jack the car up, did everything in the hood. A good socket set (with extensions) is a must for this job.

This was my basic approach. Thanks to the youtuber who posted this. Hope this helps somebody.


Shouldn't have taken me so long but got hung up on very silly things.

Here's what I got hung up on. Hope this saves somebody out there:

1) The plastic electrical connector tabs are a pain! Must've spent a good 30-40 mins wrestling with these things. I didn't want to break them so I went slow with these. I think they just need some 'warming up'. Then they pop off easily. I wonder if a hair dryer or something would help. Just felt like the cold weather made the plastic tabs less pliable. There's 3 in total to remove and had trouble with 2 of the 3. Any tricks to these?

2) Removing the pulley. I knew this would be tricky so I ordered a strap wrench. **You don't need this tool** The wrench I got was useless (OTC 7206). I probably spent more than an hour fiddling with this. The wrench kept slipping. I tried sand paper, and latex gloves to improve the grip...no luck. I really wanted to the tool to work but I should've given up on it. Sometimes the simplest solutions are the best. Here's the trick: I used an old drill bit and put it through the extra holes on the pulley. It wedged nicely between the fins of the water pump and the body of the car. The bolts on the pulley were off in a few minutes after this trick. A long 12mm wrench really makes this job easier as well. I actually went out and bought a long wrench set as I just had a cheap stanley set. Made the job much easier.

3) Putting the serpentine belt back on (an hour here). I took the wrong approach here to start. Once I figured it out it was actually quite easy. I started the belt around the tensioner looping it to the right of the tensioner pulley. I then looped around the crankshaft. This leaves us trying to put it around the belt around the idler. I used my left hand in the bay on the belt and my right hand pushing the tensioner towards the car. It slipped on easily. Not sure this makes sense but the key is looping the belt to the right of the tensioner.

This car is a pleasure to work on. So many areas where it seems like they thought about actually servicing he car. My first car in university (1997 Oldsmobile) was such a pain!

Thanks for all the help. on this board. I'm saving a tonne of money and learning and enjoying doing this stuff. My first ever water pump change! I hope it doesn't leak.

 

Until you look at replacing a lower control arm or engine mount.

Good job! The water pump really is easy on this car. I have replaced 2 of them on mine now. The tutorial over on TN that "snookwhaler" posted shows him using an allen wrench to pin the pulley between the water pump webbing instead of using a strap wrench.

 

Thanks Litespeed. You're right, I looked at the control arm replacement and it looks like a bear of a job.
Hope to put as many miles on my TCH as yours!