What's wrong with my Camry?
#1
03-20-2017, 07:10 PM
What's wrong with my Camry?
I have a 2007 Camry Hybrid with a tad over 70k miles and I am the second owner. Yesterday the check hybrid system warning came on and will not go off after reset. I took it to Advanced Auto for a code check and it came back "P0A80" Replace Hybrid Battery Pack.
However, the car still runs and all accessories are functional. However, when I turn un the energy display I don't see the engine, electric motor and battery charging in active mode; the battery although is illuminated blue with almost a full charge being indicated.
Could this possibly be some other kind of anomaly... say a fuse or computer module at fault as opposed to the need for a full battery replacement? I read somewhere that if the electric motor isn't turning the car shouldn't work.
Please help and advise. Thank you in advance.
***PT 2****
Well, after reading many threads here and following the recommendation to swap out my 12v battery things have gotten more bizarre. The rear blower, blows air and cannot be turned off the MPG gauge reads zero when the car is full stop at the light. It appears the main battery is charging while I am driving, because I see it go from purple to blue to green. It appears however, the engine and electric motor is not transferring power. At this point I am not sure how the car is operating, can someone explain how this is supposed to work and what can possibly be wrong.
However, the car still runs and all accessories are functional. However, when I turn un the energy display I don't see the engine, electric motor and battery charging in active mode; the battery although is illuminated blue with almost a full charge being indicated.
Could this possibly be some other kind of anomaly... say a fuse or computer module at fault as opposed to the need for a full battery replacement? I read somewhere that if the electric motor isn't turning the car shouldn't work.
Please help and advise. Thank you in advance.
***PT 2****
Well, after reading many threads here and following the recommendation to swap out my 12v battery things have gotten more bizarre. The rear blower, blows air and cannot be turned off the MPG gauge reads zero when the car is full stop at the light. It appears the main battery is charging while I am driving, because I see it go from purple to blue to green. It appears however, the engine and electric motor is not transferring power. At this point I am not sure how the car is operating, can someone explain how this is supposed to work and what can possibly be wrong.
#2
03-20-2017, 10:00 PM
Re: What's wrong with my Camry?
Sorry to hear it.
Your hybrid battery has failed. Period.
P0A80 is the correct code, and it doesn't occur with 12V issues unless there are MANY other error codes triggered by low 12V.
The battery fan running full time is confirmation of a failed hybrid battery.
The lack of utilization of the electric propulsion system is further confirmation of a failed hybrid battery.
The progression of these symptoms is yet further confirmation your pack has failed.
The car will continue to operate until the hybrid battery can no longer start the gas engine. If you hear a loud POP or BANG sound, it means the repeated shoving of current through a failed cell has caused one of the modules to rupture. You should definitely stop driving it before this happens. It is usually preceded by periods of very low power, poor performance and low gas mileage, but not always.
I understand you don't want your hybrid battery to be replaced, and you feel it shouldn't have failed since you only have 70K miles (which may actually be a contributing factor to the failure). Nevertheless, it needs to be replaced.
If you are in a CARB state, you should seek some sort of warranty consideration from Toyota Corporate.
Good luck,
Steve
Your hybrid battery has failed. Period.
P0A80 is the correct code, and it doesn't occur with 12V issues unless there are MANY other error codes triggered by low 12V.
The battery fan running full time is confirmation of a failed hybrid battery.
The lack of utilization of the electric propulsion system is further confirmation of a failed hybrid battery.
The progression of these symptoms is yet further confirmation your pack has failed.
The car will continue to operate until the hybrid battery can no longer start the gas engine. If you hear a loud POP or BANG sound, it means the repeated shoving of current through a failed cell has caused one of the modules to rupture. You should definitely stop driving it before this happens. It is usually preceded by periods of very low power, poor performance and low gas mileage, but not always.
I understand you don't want your hybrid battery to be replaced, and you feel it shouldn't have failed since you only have 70K miles (which may actually be a contributing factor to the failure). Nevertheless, it needs to be replaced.
If you are in a CARB state, you should seek some sort of warranty consideration from Toyota Corporate.
Good luck,
Steve
#3
03-21-2017, 02:45 AM
Re: What's wrong with my Camry?
OK, I will get started with the replacement as soon as possible. What is a CARB state? I live in VA, by the way.
#4
03-21-2017, 06:53 AM
Re: What's wrong with my Camry?
Californian Air Resources Board.
Actually, as I look into it, it appears that most of the states that adopted the CARB standards take effect for vehicles manufactured later than 2007, and VA is not among them.
Be prepared for sticker shock. Last I checked, a new one from Toyota is about $4000-4500. Given your low mileage, I recommend you replace with a new one. Even the best reconditioned batteries are unlikely to last much more than 3-4 years.
Get it diagnosed at a dealer. Yes, it will cost you about $150. Then call Toyota corporate at 800-331-4331, option 4.
Good luck,
Steve
Actually, as I look into it, it appears that most of the states that adopted the CARB standards take effect for vehicles manufactured later than 2007, and VA is not among them.
Be prepared for sticker shock. Last I checked, a new one from Toyota is about $4000-4500. Given your low mileage, I recommend you replace with a new one. Even the best reconditioned batteries are unlikely to last much more than 3-4 years.
Get it diagnosed at a dealer. Yes, it will cost you about $150. Then call Toyota corporate at 800-331-4331, option 4.
Good luck,
Steve
#5
03-21-2017, 08:40 PM
Re: What's wrong with my Camry?
you only have 70K miles (which may actually be a contributing factor to the failure)
S Keith, how is that a contributing factor?
Also, keep in mind - this happened to his car on 3/16/17. Not yesterday. I think he also had 12V replaced few days ago.
It is UNUSUALLY low mileage for complete battery pack failure.
Re: P0A80-- Replace Hybrid Battery Pack Randy,
That code (P0A80) is a 2 part code that will require a better scanner than you have access to. If you have a pro level scanner, you must clear the code and drive the car for 10 minutes to see if a P0A80-123 code is set. If it is, then you either have a problem with the battery or with the battery smart unit.
The reason for the two part test is exactly what you have experienced. The battery is showing too much of a voltage differential between battery blocks and that can be caused by having the car parked for an extended period. By making you drive the car for the second part of the test, if gives the computer time to recharge and balance the battery blocks.
For the test, you compare the voltages between the 17 battery blocks (odd to even) and is one set compared is off by less than .3 volts, the battery will need to be replaced. If the voltages difference is greater than .3 volts, the smart battery unit will need to be replaced.
That test is ONLY done however after clearing the codes the first time, driving the car for 10 minutes and checking to see if P0A80-123 is showing up. If it doesn't, you are fine and can go back to driving your car as before.
To save a trip to the dealer, clear the code and see if it returns, if it does, go the dealer
S Keith, how is that a contributing factor?
Also, keep in mind - this happened to his car on 3/16/17. Not yesterday. I think he also had 12V replaced few days ago.
It is UNUSUALLY low mileage for complete battery pack failure.
Re: P0A80-- Replace Hybrid Battery Pack Randy,
That code (P0A80) is a 2 part code that will require a better scanner than you have access to. If you have a pro level scanner, you must clear the code and drive the car for 10 minutes to see if a P0A80-123 code is set. If it is, then you either have a problem with the battery or with the battery smart unit.
The reason for the two part test is exactly what you have experienced. The battery is showing too much of a voltage differential between battery blocks and that can be caused by having the car parked for an extended period. By making you drive the car for the second part of the test, if gives the computer time to recharge and balance the battery blocks.
For the test, you compare the voltages between the 17 battery blocks (odd to even) and is one set compared is off by less than .3 volts, the battery will need to be replaced. If the voltages difference is greater than .3 volts, the smart battery unit will need to be replaced.
That test is ONLY done however after clearing the codes the first time, driving the car for 10 minutes and checking to see if P0A80-123 is showing up. If it doesn't, you are fine and can go back to driving your car as before.
To save a trip to the dealer, clear the code and see if it returns, if it does, go the dealer
Last edited by ukrkoz; 03-21-2017 at 08:52 PM.
#7
03-21-2017, 08:47 PM
Re: What's wrong with my Camry?
NSPECTION PROCEDURE
PROCEDURE
Result:
DTC P0A1F-123 is output.
YES -- GO TO INSPECTION PROCEDURE RELEVANT TO OUTPUT DTC
NO -- Continue to next step.
(j)
Check the voltage difference in the all 9 combinations.
OK:
The difference in voltage of all combinations is 0.3 V or more.
YES -- REPLACE BATTERY SMART UNIT
NO -- REPLACE HV BATTERY
This should be done with intelligent scanner. Like techstream.
PROCEDURE
- CHECK FOR DTCS (DTC P0A1F-123 IS OUTPUT)
Result:
DTC P0A1F-123 is output.
YES -- GO TO INSPECTION PROCEDURE RELEVANT TO OUTPUT DTC
NO -- Continue to next step.
- READ VALUE ON INTELLIGENT TESTER
(j)
Check the voltage difference in the all 9 combinations.
OK:
The difference in voltage of all combinations is 0.3 V or more.
YES -- REPLACE BATTERY SMART UNIT
NO -- REPLACE HV BATTERY
This should be done with intelligent scanner. Like techstream.
#8
03-21-2017, 09:01 PM
Re: What's wrong with my Camry?
SD is one of the biggest contributing factors to battery imbalance and subsequent cell failures. A car driven less than typical with long periods of sitting may suffer from more SD than is typical. As batteries age (miles and TIME), SD gets worse.
A failure at 70K is no more unusual than 70K miles on a 10 year old car. I've personally seen failures ranging from 90K to 280K with the bulk in the 140-160 range. The batteries that come out of the lower mileage ones are worse than average.
Camrys have other isolated cooling issues like the HSDIII Prius. I evaluated a 2012 with 124K miles and its battery was utterly destroyed. Lexus 450h w/105K - same... battery destroyed.
Failure of the smart unit almost never happens. A P0A80 code is almost always a failed battery. "measuring" the 17 block voltages requires Techstream or a high end code reader and is impractical for most.
I'm not speaking from what I've read on forums. I'm speaking based on 50+ pack replacements and extensive testing of over 2,000 6 cell battery modules.
A failure at 70K is no more unusual than 70K miles on a 10 year old car. I've personally seen failures ranging from 90K to 280K with the bulk in the 140-160 range. The batteries that come out of the lower mileage ones are worse than average.
Camrys have other isolated cooling issues like the HSDIII Prius. I evaluated a 2012 with 124K miles and its battery was utterly destroyed. Lexus 450h w/105K - same... battery destroyed.
Failure of the smart unit almost never happens. A P0A80 code is almost always a failed battery. "measuring" the 17 block voltages requires Techstream or a high end code reader and is impractical for most.
I'm not speaking from what I've read on forums. I'm speaking based on 50+ pack replacements and extensive testing of over 2,000 6 cell battery modules.
