I was getting ready to take a drive in my 06 Civic Hybrid this past week and noticed the engine battery light came on when I started it. The check engine and IMA light were also on but this is "normal". I turned off the car and tested the engine battery voltage and it was reading normal. When I started the car with the meter connected the voltage stayed within normal range. The car drove normally but I noticed that the hybrid battery gauge wasn't showing a charge. The last 2 bars disappeared a few miles down the road. While driving at 25MPH the whole car shut down. The engine stopped and all lights on the dash went out. No dome lights and even the 4 way hazard lights were not working. Scared the sh*t out of me! I was lucky enough the coast the car to the side of the road and wave other cars around me. The car battery even read the normal 12.6volts when I put the tester on it. No lose wires that I could see. I tried everything to get the car running for 5min. Then on my 20th attempt the put the key in the ignition all the lights came on and it started. Hybrid battery began to charge also and it ran fine. No engine battery light.

I checked on Honda's recall site and noticed a recall for the same issue I was experiencing. 06-07 Hybrid Stalling 11V-106. I called customer care and they said this recall was performed on my vehicle in 2011. Something to do with the voltage converter failing. I do not remember this being done but I called my local shop and they said I would have to bring it in for a diagnostic to see if that was it.

Has anyone experienced this issue and if so what was the outcome?

 

Never experienced it on either of mine, but I remember the recall on the converter. It was done on at least one of our cars. At a minimum, you should get the codes read before disconnecting the 12V.

Once you have to codes, load test your battery. If it doesn't test >80% good, replace it.

Also, check the negative battery cable condition and the ground strap that grounds the engine to the unibody. Bad ground can cause all sorts of issues.

Also, if your IMA light has been on for a while, your battery may have deteriorated to the point that the DC-DC converter may have issue with low IMA battery voltage and won't charge the 12V at idle or high rpm. You've gotten used to your IMA light, and it can mean more than just "bad IMA battery."

Good luck,

Steve

 

Thanks for the tips. I started my car on my lunch break and the same lights came on. I noticed the IMA battery started to show 3 bars of charge for a few seconds. Then I heard a "thud" behind the rear seats. Sounded like something electrical was turned off abruptly & then the charging stopped. I'm taking it to get the codes pulled in 15min or so and then a battery test.

 

Any word?

 

I had Advanced Auto test the battery. After the whole process he said the machine said the battery was "bad or low" but it suggested trying to charge it. If the charge works then it suggests looking for causes of the low charge. Charging system and cables/connections.

The voltage was 12.63V
Measured 425 CCA
The battery was rated for 700 CCA
Temperature was 95 degrees

My thoughts are that it showed a low charge because of the lack of charge that day. The battery is the 2nd one for this car. I replaced the original battery in March of 2010 with 108,744 Miles. My current milage is 178,000. Might be time for a new one?

The Only codes that it pulled were the following:
Hybrid Battery Deterioration (P0A7F)
Battery Voltage (61-1)
Coolant temp sensor (Don't remember the code)
FYI - NO Catalytic Converter Code (P0420)!!

 

In my world, batteries over 2 years old are suspect, but AZ is harder on batteries due to the heat... Lead-acid HATES heat. Cold is hard on them too. Personally, I would replace it with a 51R (have to discharge the plastic housing. It fits, but just barely. 5 years is a long time on any battery that's not in a consistently mild climate.

What about the condition of the grounds? They can look good but be bad/corroded/broken inside the plastic sleeve.

If a 12V replacement doesn't fix the issue, it may be time to assess the IMA battery. It might respond to grid charging/discharging. I know we've had a lot of conversations, but I don't recall the specifics. Please forgive me if I'm repeating myself.

61-1 is bogus. Nothing about it in the service manual except for 61-1x codes, which are associated with the restraint system.

I'd look deeper into the coolant temp sensor code. If it's sending bad data to the ECU, your fuel mix will likely be consistently too rich or too lean leading to other problems.

I recommend a $10 bluetooth OBD-II reader (EIM32) and $6 Torque Pro for Android for code reading and real-time data view/logging. I have never had mine pull a bogus code UNLESS there are a slew of other codes such as when the 2nd HCH2 had massive codes associated with IMA, misfires on all cylinders and the CAT. I got a few weird ones that went away when I replaced plugs and the one bad coil.

Again, I vigorously recommend you replace the 12V. You're on borrowed time.

Additionally, something like this for real-time 12V monitoring:


Good luck,

Steve

 

Yeah, I agree. I think it's time for a new one. I called around and Battery Warehouse had the best price at $98.99. (Think I paid $79.99 for my last on 5 years ago.) Walmart & Advanced Auto wanted $119 - $137 for the 51R. Battery Warehouse said they could possibly fit a larger one in there with a 5 year warranty but they would have to measure. They will also check my wires and grounds.

I think I'll buy that voltage meter from Amazon in case the issue continues.

As far as the bluetooth OBD Reader, I see they they have an app for iPhone for $9.99
Looks like it pulls the CEL codes too. Thats pretty sweet. I didn't see a bluetooth reader for Apple iPhone on Amazon Do you know of one?

 

Don't go bigger than 51R. It's a tight fit. Big improvement over the 151R if you still have it. You'll have to pull all the battery housing pieces out.

Not an iPhone guy at all. If you have any kind of android device, such as a tablet that would work too.

According to this:


There is a wifi version that works with iphone.

Here's a search:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...+reader+iphone

Personally, Torque Pro is amazing. I would get a used Android phone to work as a tablet strictly to run Torque.

Hope the new 12V takes care of it.

Steve

 

Battery51R

Battery151R

These are the two batteries I found. Looks like the CCA is 340 or 500. When my battery was tested they used the rating of 700CCA, which is wrong, and it measured 425CCA. I would think it OK then, right?

I just had 4 new tires put on and an alignment done this morning and the battery tested fine. No Battery light since Monday

Now that I think of it we have an Android Tablet hiding somewhere in the house. I'd have to see if it is able to run that App or not. I'll keep you posted.

 

151R is stock, small and shitty.

51R is bigger and better.

IMHO, you need a new 12V no matter how it tests. Bad, marginal or intermittent 12V issues can wreak havoc on the IMA system. Five years is a long time for a 12V. You're on borrowed time. If you insist on keeping it, bench charge it to full and ensure all fluid levels are correct. If low, add distilled/de-ionized water.

IIRC, Torque requirements are pretty low. As long as the tablet has bluetooth, you should be good.

Good luck,

Steve