I made a post in May about the CVT shuttering when starting from dead stop. I got some replys which were helpful. Found out the best thing to cure this problem is take it the dealer, have the dirty fluid pumped and install new clean fluid.
Another problem I had was I could drive the car for any distance, short or long, and if I stopped the engine, I could start the engine back up but the shifter would not come out of park. Had to wait at least 30 minutes before I could go again. Found a broken wire close to the IMA battery pack that had probably shorted the computer. Installed and programmed a used computer from a salvage yard and fixed that problem.

 

Thanks for the follow-up. That stuck shifter stumped the crap out of me.

 

I just saw the original thread, thought it was the brake switch, my gfs old Aveo had the same problem and manually triggering it helped

 

The shuttering is happening to mine. I was thinking of doing the CVT oil change myself. Doing this I see you drain the fluid, Why would the dealer pump it?

 

When you drain it yourself; you only get less than half the old fluid out. The dealer has a device that goes in the fill tube that pumps all the fluid out of the transmission. The old dirty fluid was what was causing the largest part of my problem. If I accelerate hard or on a steep grade; I still get a slight shutter, probably due to the transmission having 234,000 miles.

 

So, the CVT’s store fluid like a typical torque converter would. My Civic has just over 235,000 now. I just bought it in January and the previous owner seemed to keep it up well. He may have not changed the CVT fluid regularly I guess.

 

According to the info I have received from this forum and other sources, the CVT fluid needs to be changed at 20,000 to 30,000 mile intervals to keep the transmission healthy.

 

S. Keith seems to be very helpful on about any subject involving a HCHII, or he has been very helpful with my problems

 

I change the CVT fluid in both of mine every other oil change, so it's about every 15,000 miles.

The capacity at overhaul is 5.4 qt. The capacity at change is 3.0 qt, so you are only replacing 56% of the fluid at change with 44% of the dirty fluid still present. A second change results in 44% of the new/dirty fluid mix still present resulting in about 19% dirty fluid. A third change gets you down to about 8.5% dirty... not too bad.

I can't help but wonder if that's all that the honda dealership did on Bob's flush... but i want to believe that have some fancy means of draining out all the fluid (5.4 qt), refilling, circulate, regular 3qt drain then 3qt fill. That's the only way I can come close to the 8 qts for which they charged.

CVTs are fragile things. The engine puts all of its power to the ground via a steel pusher belt.

If something doesn't seem right with a CVT, replace the fluid. If it improves, but it isn't fixed, replace again after a week of driving. You might also inquire if your dealer offers a flush similar to what Bob describes.

The CVT is very sensitive to proper fluid height, so make sure you're spot on.
I have had the best luck by never second-guessing the manual and putting exactly 3.0 qts in after a drain. If it looks a little low, I'll add a touch. My experience is that a touch over-filled is way better than under-filled or at the low limit. When low, engagement can be very poor.

There is a larger magnet and traditional transmission filter inside the pan. I have never dropped my pan. It is claimed that it can be done. I will probably try that some day in a few months when AZ is a little less oven-like.

Good luck!

Steve

 

this thread was very helpful. I have a shuttering CVT also. I was able to get improvement by changing the fluid but kind of gave up on that when it stopped fixing the problem. I am going to try pumping or vacuuming out the fluid and see how much I can get out.