I want to buy that prolong grid charger for my civic 2007. It seems that this things is made to work while battery must be in the car. Am I right. I park on the street.

I live in city and I don't have a driveway. I want to remove the battery and charge it in the house. can this be done with that prolong charger? I can charge it in the weekend.

I Went to dealer and they say it needs to be change, asking 5000$ canadian money which is quite high for me... It's out of warranty honda canada don't want to do anything.

If that prolong charger can squeeze a few more years of life, that would be great. when battery's completely gone, i can purchase another one from scrap yard for 500$. and repeat the process.

Is this scenario realistic? or it doesn't work that way...

S. keith says that it's easy to remove the battery...

 

It seems also that the IMA can be turn off from just a flip of a switch. the limitation it will only charging the 12v battery when motor is idling 1500-3200 rpm. has someone information how to turn that switch off?

S. Keith seems to say that building grid charger is really simple and information can be found on his signature. There's a spreadsheet of parts needed to do so, but I can find the step by step to accomplish that.

Any help would be nice.

Thank you

 

Do you have a 2007 or 2003?


Grid charging with a Prolong is MUCH better in-car. An extension cord to the charger would be preferred. Cooling the pack with the car fan is the best way.


There is sufficient information to build it. If you need more detailed instructions, you likely don't possess the know-how to safely do it.

 

I have a 2007. just forgot to update my information.

You are right, I don't have the know how. I can remove the seat, unscrew some stuff... but certainly don't understand the electrical part of the job.

how about the idea of buying scrap pack from salvage car? I hear it's not good idea because battery seating long time in the scrap yard has more damaged cells than the one been used regularly.

The car is giving horrible MPG now. Jerky driving sensation. Slow acceleration and hard deceleration... I can always install the prolong charger and charge it in the driveway of a friend or brother in law. Does the prolong charger charge by itself. What I mean does it need manual intervention? Can I leave the car in my friends driveway and come back the next day?

I'm giving hard thought about buying the prolong.

 

Salvage packs are hit or miss. They are usually near dead when they arrive.

The ONLY true fix to a 2006-2008 HCH battery is a new one. The Prolong may or may not work, and if it does work, you likely need to discharge as well - multiple times.

 

I'm might buy a bumblebee one then. my wife says if that pack can last 6 years then it might worth it...

thank you for your time. I let you know what I'll do.

trouble is with bumblebee, i don't know if they ship to canada. call them a few hours ago but they are close have to wait for monday.

 

Hi Mr. Keith,

How about buying a pack from scrap yard and cycle each stick at a time. My car has lot of rust I don't want to put too much money on it. If I can put 1000$ and last 6 mores years I'm happy. I live in north east. We put lot of salt one the road, all the cars after 10 years get rusty.

I can do like him.
https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...tioning-30998/

 

6 years? LOL. Your perspective is WAY off. If you figure out how to do that for $1000, you need to market it to every Civic owner out there. You'll make a mint.

Non-new-pack solutions are MONTHS to MAYBE 1-2 year solutions.

Sure, you could try that. There are no guarantees in any of this. You could throw $1000 at it and end up with nothing.

If you need a 6 year solution, then your ONLY option is a new pack.

Do you know how to use a multimeter in voltage measurement mode?

 

Ok just 1-2 years solutions... and I could end up with nothing... that puts things in perspective.

Yes I know how to use a multimeter in voltage measurement. I'm pretty handy, remodel two houses so pretty touch everything. Simple stuff like change oil, brakes, suspension in the car. Don't do timing valve or stuff like that, because those things I would never venture to.

With that stick reconditionning I won't get a decent pack? I seems to recall that you mention somewhere it's had to figure which stick is bad or not. Is this the reason even doing that stick reconditionning you end up with a IMA later on. But that's ok if I can do it over again spare pack, install and drive again.

My expection isn't clear; I don't expect the car to be new, I just don't want Soc to go full bar to two and back to full. If it can just behave like month ago like hanging in the middle. Is that kinda expection realistic? When going berserk like this, i really feel the car is pulling a trailler like.

Thank you again for your patience.

 

The general description you have provided about bar and car behavior is EXACTLY the difference between a functional battery and a failed one. It's that simple. Your battery has failed. To achieve this, you need a functional pack.

The 8 bar/2 bar behavior is a "recalibration" where the car recalibrates the gauge. Frequent recalibrations are triggered by severe imbalance in the pack or a failed cell.

Concerning reconditioning, I currently have 9 packs worth of HCH2 subpacks. That 99 total. Each pack uses 11. All have been subjected to reconditioning well beyond anything described on this forum.

Out of those 99, only 4 are good. I need 7 more to build a good pack.

You will have 11 from each pack. Your results will likely be better than mine, because of my hot climate, but how many do you think you'll need?

Let's do some diagnostics.

I recommend the following:[LIST]

1. Disconnect the negative 12V battery terminal for 30 seconds
2. Reconnect
3. Start and let car idle. Do not rev or drive the car - just idle. You will see it charging. Let it continue to charge until it stops charging. The SoC bar will settle on 3 or 8 bars after charging.
4. Repeat 1-3 for a total of 3 charges

For an entire day, conduct 1-3 every 30-60 minutes without driving the car.

Once you've done that over the course of a full day, begin driving the car. Note how long it takes before you see a recalibration, then begin documenting date and time of calibrations.