Grid charger prolong
#11
01-21-2017, 10:40 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
Ho boy, 99 subpack only 4 good. 9 packs only give 4??? you will still need 18 packs more less.
That really puts things in perpertive. Ok I will do what you prescribe.
Keep in touch.
That really puts things in perpertive. Ok I will do what you prescribe.
Keep in touch.
The general description you have provided about bar and car behavior is EXACTLY the difference between a functional battery and a failed one. It's that simple. Your battery has failed. To achieve this, you need a functional pack.
The 8 bar/2 bar behavior is a "recalibration" where the car recalibrates the gauge. Frequent recalibrations are triggered by severe imbalance in the pack or a failed cell.
Concerning reconditioning, I currently have 9 packs worth of HCH2 subpacks. That 99 total. Each pack uses 11. All have been subjected to reconditioning well beyond anything described on this forum.
Out of those 99, only 4 are good. I need 7 more to build a good pack.
You will have 11 from each pack. Your results will likely be better than mine, because of my hot climate, but how many do you think you'll need?
Let's do some diagnostics.
I recommend the following:[LIST]
For an entire day, conduct 1-3 every 30-60 minutes without driving the car.
Once you've done that over the course of a full day, begin driving the car. Note how long it takes before you see a recalibration, then begin documenting date and time of calibrations.
The 8 bar/2 bar behavior is a "recalibration" where the car recalibrates the gauge. Frequent recalibrations are triggered by severe imbalance in the pack or a failed cell.
Concerning reconditioning, I currently have 9 packs worth of HCH2 subpacks. That 99 total. Each pack uses 11. All have been subjected to reconditioning well beyond anything described on this forum.
Out of those 99, only 4 are good. I need 7 more to build a good pack.
You will have 11 from each pack. Your results will likely be better than mine, because of my hot climate, but how many do you think you'll need?
Let's do some diagnostics.
I recommend the following:[LIST]
- Disconnect the negative 12V battery terminal for 30 seconds
- Reconnect
- Start and let car idle. Do not rev or drive the car - just idle. You will see it charging. Let it continue to charge until it stops charging. The SoC bar will settle on 3 or 8 bars after charging.
- Repeat 1-3 for a total of 3 charges
For an entire day, conduct 1-3 every 30-60 minutes without driving the car.
Once you've done that over the course of a full day, begin driving the car. Note how long it takes before you see a recalibration, then begin documenting date and time of calibrations.
#12
01-21-2017, 11:15 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
AZ is very hard on Honda cells, but many are from milder climates.
This experiment will give you some idea if you're dealing with imbalance or cell failure.
The next step is taking direct measurements of the voltage taps. to see if you have any obvious cell failures.
This experiment will give you some idea if you're dealing with imbalance or cell failure.
The next step is taking direct measurements of the voltage taps. to see if you have any obvious cell failures.
#13
01-22-2017, 08:51 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
Hi mr. Keith
just did the diagnostic, the soc settle at 3 bar when charging, and when it stops, goes to full... so it's like charging 3 out ?? maybe 10, didn't count
Did two times and the soc stop charging when reaching 3 bars. The third time, it seem it stop charging even at 2 bars. Not really sure it happen too fast. But after it finished charging it go full all the time.
By doing so, even get rid of the check engine light by doing so.
I just read the MIMA from mr. perkins. Very interesting, if someone can come with some manual override. I Can drive this car forever even if it's sub-optimal. You mentioned we can drive the civic with IMA off, all we have to do is have a cigarette voltmeter to ensure that the 12v gets charged. Why isn't this approach more adopted or mentioned? is it because someone can be trap in the traffic and the 12v can get depleted fast?
I guess the third time will be the same. Let hope the recalibration won't come too soon.
just did the diagnostic, the soc settle at 3 bar when charging, and when it stops, goes to full... so it's like charging 3 out ?? maybe 10, didn't count
Did two times and the soc stop charging when reaching 3 bars. The third time, it seem it stop charging even at 2 bars. Not really sure it happen too fast. But after it finished charging it go full all the time.
By doing so, even get rid of the check engine light by doing so.
I just read the MIMA from mr. perkins. Very interesting, if someone can come with some manual override. I Can drive this car forever even if it's sub-optimal. You mentioned we can drive the civic with IMA off, all we have to do is have a cigarette voltmeter to ensure that the 12v gets charged. Why isn't this approach more adopted or mentioned? is it because someone can be trap in the traffic and the 12v can get depleted fast?
I guess the third time will be the same. Let hope the recalibration won't come too soon.
Last edited by fanfaron; 01-22-2017 at 09:37 AM.
#14
01-22-2017, 09:35 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
The "diagnostic" is essentially 3 forced recals with an IMA/CEL reset due to 12V disconnect.
The purpose of doing it for a whole day once every 30-60 minutes is to continually force charge the weaker cells in the 100% efficient range while the stronger cells are being charged at the <100% efficient range. This allows the weaker cells to catch up a little.
This is a band-aid to try and see if we can wring a little function out of it. If IMA stays off for a few days (don't push it too hard), then grid charging has a very good chance of working.
Next will be to check the voltage taps, but NOT until you get another IMA light.
The purpose of doing it for a whole day once every 30-60 minutes is to continually force charge the weaker cells in the 100% efficient range while the stronger cells are being charged at the <100% efficient range. This allows the weaker cells to catch up a little.
This is a band-aid to try and see if we can wring a little function out of it. If IMA stays off for a few days (don't push it too hard), then grid charging has a very good chance of working.
Next will be to check the voltage taps, but NOT until you get another IMA light.
#15
01-22-2017, 09:41 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
"If IMA stays off for a few days (don't push it too hard)" what do you mean by not pushing to hard? do you mean not pushing too hard on the car by not accelerating too fast? or don't push this method too far, like doing the procedure the whole day, like 10 times... it can damage the pack...
I will log when will be the next recal. I keep in touch.
thank you
I will log when will be the next recal. I keep in touch.
thank you
#17
01-23-2017, 07:50 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
The recalibration came right from the start. The car started from ima motor. from full bar it drop to two and start charging. I let it charge to full. after 2 miles of road, the recal came right away. And it was doing along the way. I still drive the car, averaging 33 mpg highway and city combine. I guess there's only one way to go... change battery or change car for long term.
Thank you for you support mr. keith
Thank you for you support mr. keith
#18
01-23-2017, 07:52 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
That suggests either gross imbalance or cell failure.
The next diagnostic step is to pull the rear seat, pull the IPU cover (T30 Torx bits) and measure the tap voltages AFTER the car has sat for 10+ hours.
The next diagnostic step is to pull the rear seat, pull the IPU cover (T30 Torx bits) and measure the tap voltages AFTER the car has sat for 10+ hours.
#20
01-23-2017, 08:31 AM
Re: Grid charger prolong
You'll need 10mm Sockets and T30 Torx bits to get the job done.
Remove 2 10mm bolts between upper and lower cushion, about 8" apart in the center.
Pop up front of lower cushion and remove.
Remove 2 10mm bolts at outer ends and below the upper cushion.
Take the center belt out of the belt-stay.
Raise the rear seat straight up and remove.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts securing the master switch cover.
Remove cover and flip the master switch off.
Remove 10mm bolter that was under the switch.
Remove all the T30 Torx screws.
Carefully remove the IPU cover without bending it. There is a rubber seal, and it can be a little stubborn.
Remove 2 10mm bolts between upper and lower cushion, about 8" apart in the center.
Pop up front of lower cushion and remove.
Remove 2 10mm bolts at outer ends and below the upper cushion.
Take the center belt out of the belt-stay.
Raise the rear seat straight up and remove.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts securing the master switch cover.
Remove cover and flip the master switch off.
Remove 10mm bolter that was under the switch.
Remove all the T30 Torx screws.
Carefully remove the IPU cover without bending it. There is a rubber seal, and it can be a little stubborn.
