There was an endorsement of RejeX by user 'OrientExpress' on another post, so I thought I'd bring the topic where it would be more visible and could get further opinions.

I have a new Civic Hybrid, not yet waxed. RejeX product claims by the manufacturer are intriguing.

However... when applied properly:
1. Does the product show streaks or blotches?
2. Does it seal in any unseen grit, making it impossible to remove later?
3. Does it reduce porosity of new, uncured paint, or have any detrimental long-term effect?

Thanks for the feedback!

 

Yes, I am a big fan of Rejex, and have been using it on all of my cars for about 6 years. To answer your questions:

1. Does the product show streaks or blotches?
No

2. Does it seal in any unseen grit, making it impossible to remove later?
No, but cleaning the paint surface before applying Rejex is important.

Here are my 7 steps to getting a spectacular finish.

1. Prepare the surface.
Wash your car with a mild liquid dishwashing detergent to strip off the wax, and get down to the uncovered paint finish.

2. Remove embedded foreign material.
Go over the finish with a clay bar to remove the surface residual and embedded gunk in the paint. If you have Stone guard or any of the protective films on the front of your car, do not clay the film as it will scratch. (This is a shortcoming with films, there is not an easy way of giving them a deep cleaning, and by function, they will get the brunt of impact damage and absorb much of the airborne material that your car hits while in motion. This is why I recommend bras like the ones from Speed Lingerie to protect the front of your car.)

3. Fill the micro-imperfections.
Give the finish a covering of glaze applied with an orbital buffer and non-cutting (orange or red colored) foam pad.

4. Level the finish for a specularly flat surface.
Apply a coat of swirl remover with a Orbital buffer and non-cutting foam pad. This will insure a mirror-like finish. Some may skip this step if the finish is already in good shape.

5. QC your work.
After you have buffed out the above, Go have lunch, wait at least 2 hours and buff it again to remove residual oils, glaze, and swirl remover. Do this in bright light, as you will be amazed at how much you did not get with the first buffing.

6. Seal the finish with a high release, high reflective coating.
Apply a coat of Rejex, include windows and rims, buff, and let cure overnight.

7. Finish it with depth and make it tough.
Next day give it another coat, let cure at least 8 hours. This will make the Rejex coating last much longer.

If you do this process once a year, then touchup at 6 month intervals is all you need. In addition, some folks apply a coat of their favorite wax on top of the Rejex (Never before Rejex) to add some additional slide.


3. Does it reduce porosity of new, uncured paint, or have any detrimental long-term effect?

Quite the opposite, using Rejex has a long term beneficial effect. I make sure that I put it on my windshield, and rims to keep bugs (they hit and slide off the car before splattering) and brake dust from adhering to the car. With today's water-based paints, the idea of "uncured Paint" is no longer relevant. The paint is as hard as it will ever be when it leaves the factory. The only downside of Rejex is that it's application is a bit more complicated than waxing in that for best results, it must be applied when the surface temperature of the car is under 85 degrees F, and it must be applied in the shade, and allowed to cure in the shade or in a garage for 12 hours (overnight) before driving the car in the sun.

Here is one of my Rejexed cars:



For normal driving, I never have to wash my Rejexed cars, I just take a wet rag to them and wipe them off.

Rejex was originally designed for the Air Force helicopters, as it makes the vehicle much more slick. For Hypermilers, Rejex makes the car slipperier, and is an edge for a bit more MPG.

 

Thanks for the very good and helpful feedback. I will try a bottle of RejeX.

One comment you made greatly surprised me, “For normal driving, I never have to wash my Rejexed cars, I just take a wet rag to them and wipe them off.”

Don't you worry about wiping road dirt into your finish with a wet rag? I always pre-rinse my cars, use plenty of water while cleaning with no pressure, and rinse the sponge every few seconds to avoid abrasion.

Thanks, again for the good answers to my concerns about RejeX!

 

Very impressive, OE. Quick question for ya... do you ever apply a sealer (Zaino Z-CS or something similar) together with the RejeX?

 

No, Rejex is pretty tough stuff, and I have started using detailer spray to wipe off the car with good results.

Any car is going to get microscratches in its finish simply from driving down the road because of dust and particle abrasion. Essentially every car is getting blasted with fine material at speed, so these types of scratches are unavoidable.

This is why glaze is important in giving a finish a smooth look. Glaze fills in the microscratches (albeit temporarily) and gives a smooth reflective surface. Rejex is a pretty tough polymer that will resist ablation and keep the surface smooth. Dirt and grime does not adhere to the Rejex surface, so it wipes up pretty fast. As long as the dirt is wiped up in a liquid suspension, microscratches are minimized.

I have found a Rejex coated car does not get quite as dirty from driving in the rain, as one that is not coated.

 

Sweet ride! (I've seen the "in-the-garage" pics before.)

What kind of glaze do you use? Meguiar's No 7, by chance?

On the glass, do you just wash the glass and then Rejex it, or are there other steps?

Also, you're saying that you SAVE a bug's life, or do you just keep the body parts all together for a decent funeral?

 

Gumby:

I do have Meguiar's No. 7 Glaze, but I usually use 3M Foam Polishing Pad Glaze with an orbital polisher. The Meguiars is used mainly for hand touch-up.

For coating the glass, I clay it first, then apply the Rejex.

With Rejex, bugs hit the glass or front of the car tend to bounce up and then explode, so there is much less residue that actually makes it onto the car.

 

I prefer to dodge the bugs, but my method tends to wear out the front tires faster.

 

Thanks. Now, all of a sudden, I'm longing for a sunroof - for a better view of this by-product!

I'll have to get me some Rejex. I've heard nothing but good things about it.

 

Was checking prices online – Amazon seems good as usual. Any favorite places to buy this Elixir of The Auto Gods?