Hi,

I'm considering selling my car and have taken it to a few dealers, because I perceive that as easier than doing a personal sale - though I know I could get more money selling directly to a person. The offers I'm getting are...just ok, I think, but I could be wrong so I'm looking for some expert third party opinions. Here are the relevant points:

- 2008 HCH with Navigation, with the most updated DVD

- Recently replaced (about a month ago) battery with a new Honda battery

- I am the second owner; it was Honda Certified Pre-Owned when I bought it, and all service since was at a Honda dealer, and I have all the paperwork

- Three years ago, I put new tires on it - they are Michelin Harmony tires rated for 80,000 miles and I've put a little less than 30,000 on them.

- The current mileage is 82,200

- The car has been in one accident, a mostly blind old lady in a parking lot literally drove her car directly into mine (and then lost her license, thank goodness!) The rear passenger door was replaced and all body work was done at a Honda dealership.

- It has a few nicks from car doors or tiny rocks - things I know a dealer would be able to fix at little cost to themselves or that wouldn't bother a person (they don't bother me!) The car is otherwise is great shape. I drive it really gently and have taken good care of it.

The offers I'm getting seem just ok because I feel like the new battery should be worth something overall. I realize I'm past the 80k warranty but the new battery is warranted to $92k.

How much is a fair offer?

 

Use NADA and KBB to get a blue book value based on your mileage/options.

Run a carfax ($40) to see what impact the crash had on the value. Adjust accordingly. Providing a carfax can be an advantage ("I've got nothing to hide").

Use craigslist and autotrader to see pricing in your area. Adjust accordingly.

Add a "negotiation buffer" of 10-15% if it doesn't put you out of pricing in your area.

This is exactly how we plan to price our '09 Fit when it's ready to sell.

Steve

 

I already did most of those things, so I know where the offer should come in - but none of them have an option to specify that the most fallible part of the vehicle is brand new.

What I'm hearing is that maybe the new battery isn't as valuable as I think it is?

 

It's a selling point, but what's it worth in 15k miles? Sadly, for the bulk of the ignorant buying public, it's an on/off switch with a sense of associated apprehension.

KBB/NADA values assume a fully functioning vehicle. You have a fully functioning vehicle. The honda batteries are all refurbs, and their longevity isn't any better than any other refurb and I have 10K miles to find out if it's the next failure is covered under warranty or not. If I were a buyer, that would be my position.

Ultimately, the IMA pack is a maintenance item that MUST be replaced/refurbished at some point. It's a consumable just like oil, transmission fluid, spark plugs, coolant, tires, etc. It's just expensive as hell compared to the others, and it's hidden behind the back seat. If we were to set aside $10 with every tank, a replacement IMA battery wouldn't be a big deal, but we like to point out the awesome mileage and cost savings we see at the pump and then complain about the cost of the battery down the road

I guess if I were you, you're probably justified in attaching a $700 premium. You have a refurb pack. Period. There are cheaper refurb options than Honda in the $1,200-1,600 range, so 1/2 that seems reasonable.

The remaining warranty is the emotional tie to hanging on to that premium.

Good luck with the sale!

Steve

 

That's the insight I was looking for - I understand clearly now how to view the offers I'm getting. Thank you!

 

You're welcome. Sorry it took two posts and so many words typed out loud for me to work it out...