Abel,

Love your response... You come here, ask for help, ignore the advise given and then complain when someone gets tired of answering you and getting ignored.

I tried telling you that the problem needs to be looked at with a good scanner as there is a possibility that the accumulator is causing some of your issues and that the smart battery controller might be bad instead of the pack. You are checking items that are not going to give you an answer.

This is one case where paying a tech $100 to $125 for a GOOD, concise analysis of what is going on with your system can save you some headaches down the road. I have been out of the country for several weeks and have just arrived back at home and didn't have internet access where I was at in case you were wondering why I haven't answered sooner.

The scanner will check the pack under load and compare the same module to module voltages that the software does to find a fault. Just testing the resting voltages will not do this nor will you know which packs are to be tested against each other. You can get a manual and a scanner and do those tests yourself or hire someone to run them for you.

Failing that, you could replace a LOT of parts and still not fix the underlying problem. You might get lucky and fix it with the first replaced part as well. I just prefer to change what is needed. Different philosophy but you can fix your car anyway you wish to...

 

 

Have a completely dead battery for starting , after buying an interstate two days ago ,
Was thinking about starting it and let it run with a volt meter on it to see if it's charging or not.

 

I have a 2007 Camry HV that had the code C1253. I replaced the relay for motor #1 and also cleaned the brushes and commutator to fix it. The motor would run sometimes before I cleaned it. After cleaning it runs every time. No more code. Poor relay contacts will cause a voltage drop. Lower voltage means it requires higher amperage. Higher amperage will cause brush, commutator and even armature wear.