tiktok4321,

Agree with the secondary market and most shops just don't know how to deal with the jerking / stalling caused by the main battery.

I believe DirtRunner had certain cells replaced. When I took in my Hybrid, the shop indicated most of my cells were shot and it wouldn't be worth trying to piece meal. My suggestion is to look for a Hybrid shop (usually servicing all Hybrid from any manufacturer). The seem a) more knowledgeable than the dealers and b) are better at testing the battery.

The shop I found had my replacement in stock and took about an hour and a half to replace. Been gold since then, about 7,500 miles ago. Very glad we replaced the main battery and have a ton of life left in the truck.

 

allow me to revisit 12 volt battery for a moment. I took my car to AutoZone to get it looked at, but when I open the hood I began to wonder if they even had the capability of properly analyzing the 12-volt battery. I'm sure their equipment relies on the alternator charging the battery to determine whether or not I can hold the load. I have noticed that they didn't carry any 770 CCA batteries in stock. Do the hybrids use a special 12 volt battery or will any off-the-shelf one work?

 

Regular oem 12 v battery works.

 

I'm considering buying a 2008 or 2009 with 120-140K miles. What should I look for in terms of issues and maintenance needed? Should I only get one with a replaced battery?


Thank you!

 

Getting one with a new 300v battery helps.

 

So after spending nearly $300 diagnosing and replacing coils, plugs and wires, I was still having issues. When the plug was off, the mech pulled a compression test and showed 120 PSI (vs 180 spec) on Cylinder 8.


I added half a can of Seafoam to the crank case and it's been acting nice lately.

 

Our 2008 just turned over 130,000. At 129,850 or so, my wife complained that it was stuttering and acting oddly when she pulled away from a stop sign or light. I sorta ignored that as she is not really a "car nut" as I am. Finally I drove it and found she was right. So I drove it and blew the soot out of it, as my father used to say, by making a half dozen runs from 60 to 90, letting it cool off a little and then making three runs from 20 to 98 when the "governor" kicked in. Then I filled it with fresh fuel and added a can and a half of Berryman's B12 Chemtool to the gas. I drove back through town and there was no more stutter and hesitation. Just drove it again, a week later and it is running just as smoothly as when new. Computer says 20.16 mpg over the life of the vehicle. I have checked a couple of tanks lately and it is actually getting 22.12 mpg. All batteries appear to be good and only repair inside the last year was two new front tires and a new oil pan gasket.

Also have been trying to get my wife to remember to use only non-ethanol fuel like I use in my truck and when I fill up the hybrid. I have always disliked the 10-15% ethanol stuff.

 

 

Don't buy it!

 

I'm not sure how my name git attached to the previous post under my username that was. It my post.
However, I have a 2008 Tahoe Hybrid. The low oil pressure light, stop engine light comes on. I here a tapping sound. The only code that comes up is P0300 random misfire. Origiinally the PS0300 code misfire on #4, after changing that plug and coil now it reads random misfire. Nevertheless, The low oil pressure light is on. I have havmd it towed to several shops snd the dealership all telling me about the PS0300 code...and saying they atent sure what tge problem is ither than tearing the engine down for $3,000 or $4,000 to possibly tell me what the problem is. Chevy dealership suggest just replace the engine. Another suggest was replace all pistons and oil pump. Another suggestion replace oil pump.
After reading so many threads, I agree with mechanic that said I should be using full synthetic oil and the al delco filter and possibly change the oil pump screen because the first mechanic said he could tell it was clogged up. What do you think?