Disc Runout

BTW for the next time you have brake work done:

The service spec on runout is important. It cannot be zero since the pads need something to push them back a little when you let off the brake pedal. Only if it is above the spec should runout be a reason to replace rotors.

So don't let a service writer tell you something else to make you purchase new rotors. In most good shops they'll tell you the measured runout, the spec, & even give you the old rotors if you want (I suppose could you have them measured to check).

The point made about warping is right on the money. But you get warping only if you do a lot of heavy braking and then stand on the brakes preventing them from cooling down evenly.

If you tow alot (?) with your FEH make sure if you do alot of braking that you drive a few miles after the last heavy application to allow the rotors to cool evenly.

The reason the thickness of the rotor is important is heat dissipation. The minimum thickness of the rotor is there to enable the rotor to dissipate the heat of braking away from the brakes.

If they are too thin they cannot do this effectively under heavy braking and the brakes run the risk of heating up and vaporizing the brake fluid... meaning loss of braking.

I just think that the shop that sold you the new rotors without doing a full up brake job, such as replacing pads & probably rebuilding/replacing the calipers, was padding their bottom line.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. My 2005 FEH only has 74,000 miles on it, so replacing the rear rotors seemed unusual, but it's done and I paid up. It is safe to say I will not bring the car back to Conrads again. If I am going to get screwed it may as well be at the dealer with a trained hybrid mechanic.

I found a mechanic that does side work at his house and I am going to have him replace the front brake pads and then maybe check out the job on the back to see if it looks ok.

Quite frankly, the repair costs on this car have been too high ($1,700 or so outside of brakes/oil/tire routines) and the chances of me buying another Ford have quickly diminished over the last 4 years.

 

EagleFan89, do you mind discussing the other cost that you've incurred? I'm at 34,000 miles on my 2008 (almost half way to you mileage) and I'm on the fence regarding extending the factory warranty. It looks like in your case that an extended warranty would have been in your favor. So far I've had $0 in repair cost.

 

MyPart - I will do that, but would need to check my receipts to verify exactly what was done (since I do not know enough about cars to do it from memory).

I will try, though... The latest (2 weeks ago) was a pump related to coolant for the battery. Happened while I was travelling so I had to leave the car 2+ hours from home and retireve it 5 days later. Cost me around $650 plus cost of a rental car. Last month it was a $250 repair to replace a oxygen sensor of some sort as well as updating the computer. Last spring the air condition stopped working and i paid $700+ because there was a slow leak that could not be patched. There was something else 3 years ago too, but it was under warranty and cost me nothing, but I had to take it in several times as I kept losing power (max speed around 40) and they could not figure it out. They would tell me it was fixed and it would happen again a few days later. I have not been back to that dealership.

 

A lady I work with has a husband mechanic who does side work at his house. He told me he could get front rotors for $26 and rear rotors for $42 (I just paid $124!). Seems cheap, but if he has the contact to get them wholesale does that price make sense? He insists they are for a 2005 Hybrid...

I think I may have him do the front pads and at that price go ahead and replace the front rotors too. It would probably cost $15-20 each to spin them anyway.

 

Coming up on 45k, delivered Dec 05, & nowhere near the problems you've reported. Oil, filters, and the one recall for a corrosion issue with a connector with the traction battery wiring.

Just don't see problems.

I've put a special engine oil filter, an engine oil bypass filter, & a block heater & wiring on...

Runs good.

 

Wow, that's a lot of work/problems. Sorry that you're having such problems.

Mine will be four in June with close to 50K miles, and outside of oil changes and the voluntary service refit, I've had zero work done and zero problems.

 

I have had no repairs other than the TSB for the traction battery wiring harness in 2007 in my 2005 FEH.

 

Mine had the coolant pump in the past couple of months. I'm at ~75,000 miles now. If I had to do it again I would just order the part and put it in myself. But, I paid the same ~$600 that eagle paid.

I'm also due for some brake work. I'm fairly certain it is my front rotors that are warped. I think I'll do that myself, and replace pads / rotors all the way around. I thought about aftermarket parts, but think I will use OEM since the brakes and regen braking interact.

 

Item 1) above sounds like the Motor Electronics Coolant Pump M/ECP that has been discussed alot on this forum and is difficult to avoid. However, it is rather accessible and lends itself to a do it yourself situation.
Item 2) is fishy....why was a O2 sensor replaced?....did the vehicle fail an emissions test?, was it running rough? or did the dealer claim there was a DTC (code) and decided to replace it -- and aren't some emissions related components warranted for 7 years by law?
Item 3) refrigerant leaks are tough breaks, maybe something (drove through some rocks?) hit the underneath of the vehicle to cause it?

Do not let some friend of a friend work on the hydraulic brakes unless they fully understand how to depressurize the system.....it looks like any other brake system but if you break into the hydraulic system you are in for a big surprise.