so your the expert and the DOE is wrong

obviously they use 7 (7*1.21=8.47volts )serial cells / ?? parallel to make the 8.5v battery cell pack module
if they say the max voltage is a tad over 360v that what it is .. it's not what you say it is..

also you just got owned

 

You can't even interpret the document you linked. It doesn't say what you think it says, and all of the "obviously" gibberish you just blabbered above is not even close to true. You don't even have a basic understanding of how batteries or even electricity works.

You're too ignorant on the topic for even basic reading comprehension.

I'll help you though because someone capable of learning might stumble across your typed runny-poo and get confused.

Facts:
40 modules
6 cells each
240 cells per pack
288V nominal pack voltage (240 * 1.2V)

Table 4 SUMMARIZES THE PARAMETERS OBSERVED IN THE UDDS 50%/50% CITY/HIGHWAY DRIVE - NOTHING MORE. They in no way represent any specification, best practice, etc. Absolutely nothing can be gleaned from Table 4 outside of the context in which it was presented.

If you weren't so clueless or lazy, you'd go up to figure 8 and see voltage spikes in excess of 380V, which is clearly well above 363.7V... which is clearly not relevant to any "rating" because those voltages are for a specific type of test.

Owned? You are basically a flat-earther trying to claim victory. You are so wrong, and you refuse to see it. You are so far away from being able to own me on this topic, it's not even funny. The best you can hope for is to own some of your own dignity by realizing that you know absolutely nothing about this topic and STFU while the adults talk.

 

I was browsing the Tahoe Yukon Forum .com when I came across some posts with a familiar writing style. Looked through the post history and, sure enough, he's been keeping them entertained over there for some time now.

 

First, you can't keep username's straight. You're blatherings about "it always supplies full power from the Accessory PowerModule or inverter" are clearly directed at someone else. My guess is you're getting me confused with Hillbilly - someone who has an INTIMATE understanding of the GM hybrids.

Second, you again demonstrate zero working knowledge of NiMH chemistry or its limits. You have yet to post something correct about it. Your most recent post is just completely wrong.

Lastly, you again demonstrate a complete lack of knowledge of how batteries and electricity work in general.

 

Hey Tahoe... how about you school me on Regulated Voltage Control, alternators, and APM. How about you do a deep dive into how accessory loads from wipers, HVAC, and headlight use will boost system voltage above "Fuel Economy mode"? This applies to GM alternator systems and hybrids with APMs!

How about you school me on how the Transmission controller, Engine controller, Body controller ALL have inputs to the APM as to what voltage to supply and when?

School me on EXACTLY why system voltage calibrated to roughly 13.5V during an Auto-Stop and why 12.8V is "Fuel Economy Mode"?

When does the APM stop maintaining system voltage? Do you falsely believe when the engine is off?

You have some serious credibility issues here. You keep putting inaccurate information up here and claiming some "keyboard warrior" like "victories".

Your anecdotal stories of losing 12V power may be unique to your vehicle. Ever consider that you still have something not hooked up correctly?

Or have your "improvements" actually caused problems? NOTE: a properly functioning alternator or APM system should maintain system voltage while running and removing the 12V battery. As a mechanic I have "Hot Swapped" plenty including my own. I have also done the demonstration on 2-Modes. Just do not turn some big load on while 12V is removed.

 

keep it civil and informative guys!

 

If this is the criteria, then I will start flagging all of Hybrid_08's posts. He is never informative and frequently just outright wrong and misleading or at best irrelevant. I expect you to uphold the standards you have put forth.