It also has to do with the battery level, mine seems not to want to work if the battery is at 1/2 or lower or it may work but after a few moments, without movement of my foot in relation to the brake, it turns off the auto stop. May that be part of it?

 

Could be, though I haven't heard that it would affect that, except that it won't AS at all if the battery is too low to begin with. In fact, the fact of it restarting takes quite a bit of battery, so the idea that such a thing would be caused by having a battery that is too low sounds wrong to me. More likely it just wouldn't AS at all if your battery is low.

 

Yes if SOC is low ... its not supposed to AS at all. And i would make sense if it did this the first time when the car was warming up or something. But mostly it seems to happen after it has successfully gone into AS quite a few times during the drive.

 

One thing that I know affects AutoStop is that if you roll backwards, even a fraction of an inch, the ICE will re-fire. I used to be a "limo-braker"; that is, brake gently and then just as the car is about to come to a complete stop, let off the brake slightly. The effect would be no "rocking" to a complete stop, just smooth slow stopping as a regular limo rider would expect.

Anyway, I had to break that habit with AutoStop, of course. Now I tend to brake too hard and the car sometimes rocks on its suspension at a stop. Occasionally this fools the car into thinking I'm rolling backwards. Perhaps the same is true here? --RN

 

Yes, if the temperature is near zero celicius or lower, you are using whipers and/or lights and/or heater, the SOC si low, the AS is hard to get. You can start to experience the FAS when the circumstances are appropriate. At the begining, I thought FAS was for crazy hypermilers but after two weeks of practice, I use it quite often when safe, especyallt when I'am sure the AS will not work.

Pierre

 

I have added a 'Scan Guage' to my arsenal, and setting it on water temperature, I have learned that AS kicks in after the temp hits 150f. If you have the heat on, you can watch it pull the temp down while in AS. If it pulls it below 150f it will kick out of AS. Also, if you are in 'glide' mode for a long time there is no heat generated by combustion and you can quickly lose temperature. I now keep the climate control off until the temp is well past the cut off temp. If I see it creeping down too close, shutting of the heat will stop temp drop immediately. I also autostop one light sooner by delaying the heat.(what's a little personal discomfort compare to a 1.3 gain in fe!)

John

 

Without an actual gauge, I know from personal experience that John is right on about how turning the heat on can decrease your engine temp enough to prevent it from going into AS. It makes sense, though, neh? I mean, the engine is generating heat. That heat can either go through fans and blow into the car interior and heat me up, or it can build up in the engine and under the hood and heat the other bits of the car up. Conservation laws in physics say that you can't spread around more energy than you make, so if you're heating yourself up quickly right after you start the car, and using all the heat produced by the engine to do that, then your car's engine and other parts will just stay cold (or cool off) while you do it.

The fact that I've thought about this so much is probably a bad thing, because last winter and the one before, I drove around in the cold so often, waiting for the car to warm up and not heating myself, that it probably affected my health. Don't give yourselves a chill, people! Use the heat if you need it! But on the other hand, it doesn't have to be 75 degrees in your car in January in Chicago- you're wearing a coat, aren't you? 75 is too hot anyway!