What do you mean by "the viewing is definitely better?"

Honda lost image to Toyota because they stuck with the "D" cell battery format instead of the prismatic modules used by Toyota. This was also compounded by a notable drop in cell quality coincident with Panasonic divesting its holdings in Primearth and the death of the demand for industrial "D" NiMH cells in other markets.

Many GM hybrids use the same prismatic modules as Toyota. Nissan too. Honda is the only ones that stuck with the "D" cells. The "zero" gen Prius in Japan used the "D" cells, but they changed in 2000-2001 due to the superior design of the prismatic modules.

Honda discontinued the Civic Hybrid after the 2012 model that used Lithium cells.

I can't sell the HA system cheaper. I'm only competitive when I can do a local install.

2009-2011 extended to 10yr/150K miles due to the massive problems they have... as of 2013, 30% of 09 and 10 models had their batteries replaced.

2006-2008 was extended slightly due to a class action suit, but you're likely out of warranty unless you're in a CARB state that actually gets the warranty.

There it is... Amsoil... I suspected you were one of those. Amsoil is a good product, but it's another that's far more hype than substance like Optima.

Don't "guess honda OEM will be fine." It is the ONLY choice if you want your CVT to last. It is specifically formulated for the CVT, and Honda published a research paper demonstrating the superior performance of THEIR fluid in THEIR CVT. Changing the CVT fluid is very easy. Drop the bottom panels and use a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the drain plug. It takes exactly 3 qts.

Your primary propulsion is through a steel belt running on variable pulleys. You know that, right? Don't go putting snake oil in something that's expensive to fix.

Absolutely, positively, don't buy a battery from the people that have a 30% warranty rate in cars that are 3-4 years old. I'm talking about Honda. Get a battery from Bumblebee Batteries. He rebuilds packs with new cells made in China on an exchange basis. He's cheaper than Honda and provides a 3 year warranty.

To my knowledge, there is no programming device, and to do so would be folly. The HCH2 has a "lean burn" mode that leans the car aggressively during certain speeds at cruise. Typically between 50 and 65mph.

 

I think visibility is the better word. Backing and turning especially.

Alright, so honda uses D cell, im surprised there isnt a lithium alternative, or at least something around a 1000 dollars, maybe moving to a carb state will grant that warranty? Ive been wanting to move for awhile, but never sure where.

Whats wrong with flushing? Was just going to have a dealer do a flush, but im real curious to know what you think.

I got a list going of what to replace and fluids, sparks, and brakes are it, is there some list for this car Im not aware of? Timing belt maybe? does it even have a timing belt?

Thanks for telling me about bubblebee batteries, but ****... 2000 plus? Really? maybe I can buy cells directly and do it my self. Im all for DIY. Otherwise im just going to buy the reconditioning set.

As for the lean burn, it would be nice if it went up to 84 mph, since I love driving at that speed

BTW, it still has that "new car smell" is that something to be concerned about?

 

Visibility is much better in the Prius.

Lithium requires serious battery management. NiMH doesn't. It would require a complete electronics package to "spoof" the car's BCM. You'd never get a Lithium pack down near $1,000 as they're still more expensive than NiMH, and most businesses are in business to make a profit, or they don't last long.

Nothing wrong with CVT flushing. It's expensive, but it's not a bad thing.

Timing chain not belt.

Honda batteries cost well over $3,000. You can buy cells direct from China, but you'll spend about $1,400 after shipping. Good luck getting any support after the sale.

Lean burn can only work at low power settings, or it will cause damage. If you drive at 84mph, you'll never get good mileage. Air drag alone at 84mph is 67% higher than at 65mph. The only thing you're doing is saving time at the expense of fuel economy and reduced engine/CVT life.

There are air freshening products to produce a variety of odors including "new car smell." I would assume that's what you're smelling.

I would reiterate that selling this car may be the best option for you as it is likely not a good fit for you.

 

it seems no car is a good fit for me, I drive an international truck and its nearly at 500000 and its barely had any hickups, how many cars can say that? Ultimately hybrids are the way to go, and given all the funny perks we have talked about, im surprise you even have two, and with that many miles,

and I intend on taking mine past 300k.

It hasnt had any air freshener, but regardless it still outgasing at this point concerns me for possible poison.

Thanks for all your help, im not sure there is much else that you can help with me with, and it seems the best options are 100k maintainance and the reconditioning kit. Im contacting bumblebee to see if I can get it cheaper somehow, but regardless I love this car.

 

Comparing trucks to passenger vehicles is definitely an apples to oranges situation. Trucks get all their miles in a relatively short period of time than passenger cars, so the time element of decay is much less of a factor.

I actually have only 1 HCH2 now, but I have two Honda Insights each with 180-190K.

I'm assuming you are not the original owner and have recently acquired this vehicle. How can you say it's never had air freshener in it? There are sprays that will provide a lingering scent for a very long time. Assuming it is still out gassing and poisoning you doesn't appear to be fact-based.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Okay, assuming I can find the "bad" battery sticks, where do I actually buy new ones from? Im trying to do this all under 1000.

 

You don't. They can't be purchased. Your best bet is to locate a salvage yard pack and run the same process to isolate bad sticks and build a good one from two bad ones.

Setting a $1000 goal to repair a failed/failing $3000+ system is admirable. It's not necessarily possible.

 

Okay, I keep hearing an imax b6 is what is used to tell a bad cell from a good one, is this true? Otherwise is there anywhere I can drive to which I can have just that done? Perhaps all I need to do is use the reconditioning pack once it comes. Otherwise im not sure how far that will go.

 

You're reading old information. The Imax B6 is pure garbage.

My answer to your question is another question, how much are you willing to pay for a 12+ hours of work over 7-10 days without a warranty?

 

Im well out of warranty, and I will be having alot of time to myself in 1.5 munths from now. Either way it beats spending money on gas, I bike most everywhere anyway. I'd go from state to state if that was an option on foot or bike.

I want to do the work is what I am saying.