Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Don't you get most of the sound quality improvement by just upgrading the speakers?
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Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Originally Posted by xcel
Hi Tbaleno:
___I wouldn’t personally be interested in an upgrade in the Accord myself (maybe just speakers) but are there all-in-one head units w/ an integral power amp that has a much lower current draw then separates and that can run some decent 6x9’s in the rear that still sounds good? Just looking at it from a FE angle is all ;) ___Good Luck ___Wayne R. Gerdes
Originally Posted by kenny
Don't you get most of the sound quality improvement by just upgrading the speakers?
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Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
A picture of the digital battery meter. When convertter is running, voltage jumps to over 14 volts.
https://www.greenhybrid.com/share/fi...1_filtered.jpg |
Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Heh, not on my car ;) I only see 14V in the winter some times. Most of the time I'm driving I'm seeing 13.7 +-.1V.
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Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Originally Posted by tbaleno
Heh, not on my car ;) I only see 14V in the winter some times. Most of the time I'm driving I'm seeing 13.7 +-.1V.
Also, even when the ICE running, if I've a low electrical load, the converter apparently goes to standby for a few dozen seconds to 12. 6 v or whereabouts, perhaps to prevent battery overcharge. Now, something that it is important...lead/acid batteries have a negative temperature coefficient, which means they require a higher charging voltage with decreasing temperature... that may also play a role. |
Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
I have had the software upgrade.
Never seen it go into standby mode. I have noticed the charging voltage go higher in the winter. |
Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Originally Posted by tbaleno
I replaced my battery ... The stock battery died (Heh it couldn't keep up) but now that I have a larger battery shoehorned in I haven't had a problem.
On another note I saw that you are measuring with the Dakota Digital, is it the Odyssey Series II? Where did you connect the Dim and the SND? |
Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
My battery died in the winter. I think it lasted 3 years. However, a few months before it died is when I put my new amps and subs in. When we tested them I was dropping bellow 9V on the stock battery. We did this a few times and stopped. I suspect thats what realy killed the battery. It worked for a while after that, but I think when the cold hit the battery decided it just wasn't happy and died and went to a better place.
As far as the gauge is concerned. I believe SND I jumpered to the power wire (forget what they call it) and then connected that to the accessory wire, and dim I hooked to the dim wire (heh) Don't ask me for the color codes because I forget. I have to move the SND to run directly to the battery since the meter reads a bit lower than the actual voltage. This is probably because of the voltage drop of everything on the ACC line. I believe I am using the solarix series. I love these gauges because they are black when they are off. I think the craftsmanship is only average, but the gauges are good overall. If they lowered their price on this stuff I'm sure they would sell a ton more. |
Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Originally Posted by tbaleno
Never seen it go into standby mode.
Don't know what to tell you, other than perhaps there may be a difference between the '03 and '05 models. |
Re: HCH Stereo Upgrade
Originally Posted by tbaleno
I replaced my battery and upgraded the chassis ground and ran 1/0 wire to my trunk. I am running about 2100W RMS without a problem.
check out http://www.cardomain.com/id/tdb30 for detailed specs. I have an 03 HCH. The stock battery died (Heh it couldn't keep up) but now that I have a larger battery shoehorned in I haven't had a problem. Very clean looking head unit ... especially when off. it looks like a stock cover plate/no radio. You don't have trouble with the amp overheating in such a confined and insulated space? You don't use a capacitor to protect the battery from heavy draw under bass peaks? I think I will definately replace the stock speakers in the rear, but dynamat is also a great idea!!!
Originally Posted by from tbaleno's caption under subwoofer picture from link earlier provided
Can someone tell me how to get more oomf out of these? I'm running about 1000W to them.
Another option is if you can turn your box around 180 degrees (facing the cabin instead of rear of car) or even leave them facing upwards you might get a little better sound. Depends on the acoustics of the car. If all of that fails ... then I have one more idea, how is it set up/wired? two channels and if so bridgeable? Is your amp 2-ohm stable? Is that 1000W peak or RMS? If you bridge your amp and run your speakers in a parallel setup (which will make the draw 2 ohm for two 4 ohm speakers) then you should techically get more oomph. lets just say that your amp is 1000W max (peak) and you are using 2 channels at 4-ohms. in very general terms max is double RMS which leaves you with 500W or 250W x 2 ch ... so you are truly running 250W RMS per sub. bridging alone (500W 1ch @ 4 ohm) will still net you the same wattage if you used one 4 ohm speaker, but lowering the ohm draw (running two 4 ohm speakers in parallel or one 2 ohm speaker) will increas wattage. I will use a mild increase (the same on my amp) and go with a 50% increase in wattage. so you are now running 750W x 1ch @ 2 ohms. now you have increase each speakers RMS being recieved to 375W. The best way to run parallel is to use two sets of speaker wire the exact same length makeing sure to connect positives to positives etc ... bridging usually consists of using (normally designated on the amp) the specified positive of one channel and specified negative of the other channel ... also check your amp to see if it has a selectable switch to bridge channels (some do, some automatically switch). Of course make sure the amp is capable of these features first, and if you amp is truly 1000W RMS, then your gains should be greater. In that case make sure the speakers can withstand the increased power. Make sure you don't run in series for it will raise ohms and lower power (two 4 ohm in series = 8 ohm draw using same figures would give you 125W per sub). Special note, increased power/lower ohms ... the amp will run a little warmer, lower power/higher ohms cooler running temp. this link is an explanation in detail on wiring, with mathmatical equations of the ohm loads vs wattage and the different ways to wire multiple speakers if you want a more technical explanation and drawings to visually see it. http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html hope this helps some!!! :D |
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