My original 12v battery on my 2009 Camry Hybrid lasted 8 (80k miles) years before replacement. But the car did sit in the garage for 6+ months at a time the last couple of years before replacement (live in South Dakota and head south in a motor home towing Honda CRV). Never had any problems with hybrid battery and still delivered great mpgs. Traded the 2009 for a 2019 Camry Hybrid XLE this year and now this car will also sit for 6+ months. It has the upgraded driver assist and navigation package so not sure how it will do sitting for that long. Not sure if there are more low draws on the battery when sitting? Thinking about getting a Battery Tender Plus to monitor and trickle charge the battery while gone. Do you think this will be necessary and will not harm the 12v battery or other electronics during that 6+ months?

 

Hi, I did indeed read all 25 pages of this great thread. I have an 08 TCH (nearly 12 yrs old!) with 95k miles. Dealer said I was only getting something like 300 CCA and the 12V battery needed to be replaced. Parts counter was about $350 + tax. Noticed it was not a Panasonic but I believe was a Toyota, had vent hole and connector for temp probe.
- Since the 12V battery does not start the engine, is this a true indication of its failure?
- I have used dealer for previous services and battery condition was never brought up, supposedly should have been tested each time
- I measured the voltage across the terminals with the car off, got 12.8V.
- I can't find the Exide FP-AGM25 any more
- Neither Exide nor Optimus, O'Reilly, Advance, nor AutoZone list direct replacements for the 08 TCH
- I don't have a Pep boys in Idaho to try the Bosch 25
- Seems like I am going to end up with the battery from the dealer - any new options I should consider?

 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads...ative.1656016/

Anything below 11.7V on 12V battery is considered below spec.
OEM is deep cycle battery, you can't just measure across terminals.

https://www.google.com/search?sxsrf=...PC-gTdvLioDQ26

https://itstillruns.com/test-mainten...s-8135570.html

no one has direct firment for OEM battery due to lack of vent tube. I have seen some unproven references that someone somewhere saw one but it was never proven to be so. ity is niche market and it costs them money to make vent. I rigged vent tube to my Yellowtop Optima when I replaced mine, as YTO does have vents, just not suited for tube.
I do not believe tube is imperative to have though, as those batteries do not produce much hydrogene and, they are also in the trunk, where they pretty much vent into the air.

 

Thanks for the info and links. Do you know the stated CCA of the OEM battery (when its new)? I read through my manual and the only mention of 12V battery specs are 12.6-12.8V is fully charged, 12.2-12.4 half, and 11.8-12.0 discharged (page 402). I don't have a load tester but imagine that is what the dealer used... would you agree with their test method and assessment then?

 

I'm hoping someone who has swapped their battery already can help out here... I replaced a dead OEM battery with an Optima yellowtop, and now the car (a 2008 Camry Hybrid) will not recognize the keyfob. The keyfob won't lock or unlock the doors, and the car won't start; I was able to drive the car last week after jump-starting it, and the keyfob was working then as well.

Additionally, several dashboard warning lights are on (battery, parking brake, ABS, check engine, etc.). Has anyone seen anything like this after replacing the battery?

 

How's the battery in the fob?

Just because you replaced the battery doesn't mean the new one is actually good. I've encountered brand new yellow tops that had a resting voltage below 11V when NEW.

 

The battery in the fob seems OK, the red LED blinks when a button is pressed. Will try to replace that battery to see if it helps.

The new 12V battery is reading >12V.

 

And Excide makes AGM battery with vent.

 

I will never buy an Exide battery.

Dozens of stories like this:

https://www.latimes.com/local/califo...htmlstory.html

If you're looking for cheap, buy something made by Johnson Controls in Mexico (that way the lead is NIMBY), or go with something Japanese made that costs more, but is of higher quality and likely has better controls on lead contamination than Exide or Johnson Controls. It's a pretty small island for them to be crapping lead all over it.

 

[QUOTE=Captain Jim;215360]But there is a two wire connector that also comes out of the OEM Toyota battery. This is a temperature sensor, it measures 2.27 kilo ohms FYI. It is meant to monitor the temperature at the battery to prevent over charging. You remove it from the OEM battery by pealing back the top sticker, and by using a small screwdriver on the hot glue, pry and pop the sensor free.

Jc[/QUOTE
i recently had my hybrid battery replaced. I also had to replace my 12v. Ran great for about 15 miles and then my Check Hybrid System came back on and the car wouldn’t turn on. Checked my 12v and it was low. Hooked it up to jump it and everything was working again. I got my 12v at Napa and it’s not an AGM battery. Do you think this is the reason for my problem or could it be something in the charging system?