Time to change Auto Tranny Fluid
#21
Re: Time to change Auto Tranny Fluid
Thanks to everyone for the input. I enjoyed the spirited debate.
I didn't change the ATF last weekend because I realized that I have the incorrect thread sealant. I thought it was the same thread sealant as for the power transfer unit, but it isn't. I did, as some of you may recall, change the oil in the PTU about a year ago after getting a small leak. I wish now I had sent that oil for an analysis just for kicks... the oil had so much metal it was gray and shimmery. I scraped a quarter inch of metal shavings off the magnetic plug.
Anyway, that's a different thread sealant, so I need to order the TA-30. I'll do it in a week or two.
Everyone makes their decisions based (in part or in whole) on their own experiences. I don't expect to, and I'm not trying to, convince anyone that my way is better or that you're doing it wrong.
On the "greener" thing, I agree with those who believe that changing the fluids early will extend the life of the powertrain and ultimately prove to be an environmentally beneficial decision. We'll know in about 100,000 miles, although it's absolutely proving to be true on my 2000 saab.
As for the mercon/mercon V issue, Amsoil has been crystal clear about it. You can read their statement here: http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq4.aspx
It's one of the reasons I went with Amsoil.
So, I'm going ahead, I'll use the Amsoil, and I'll let you all know how it went and pass along any tips.
Thanks again for the input.
Island Mariner
I didn't change the ATF last weekend because I realized that I have the incorrect thread sealant. I thought it was the same thread sealant as for the power transfer unit, but it isn't. I did, as some of you may recall, change the oil in the PTU about a year ago after getting a small leak. I wish now I had sent that oil for an analysis just for kicks... the oil had so much metal it was gray and shimmery. I scraped a quarter inch of metal shavings off the magnetic plug.
Anyway, that's a different thread sealant, so I need to order the TA-30. I'll do it in a week or two.
Everyone makes their decisions based (in part or in whole) on their own experiences. I don't expect to, and I'm not trying to, convince anyone that my way is better or that you're doing it wrong.
On the "greener" thing, I agree with those who believe that changing the fluids early will extend the life of the powertrain and ultimately prove to be an environmentally beneficial decision. We'll know in about 100,000 miles, although it's absolutely proving to be true on my 2000 saab.
As for the mercon/mercon V issue, Amsoil has been crystal clear about it. You can read their statement here: http://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq4.aspx
It's one of the reasons I went with Amsoil.
So, I'm going ahead, I'll use the Amsoil, and I'll let you all know how it went and pass along any tips.
Thanks again for the input.
Island Mariner
#23
Re: Time to change Auto Tranny Fluid
The fluid in the eCVT is for lubrication and cooling purposes only, for this reason I would change it every 30K. It has NO FILTER. The Amsoil ATF is a synthetic ATF fluid which is just fine for the eCVT. Like wwest stated there is no drive belt or metal belt like Honda and other CVTs have. The Mercon V fluid is a synthetic ATF, this is the primary difference between Mercon III and V. Ford wants to use the synthetic fluid to help extend the life of their normal auto transmissions and it is a much superior lubricant.
My 05 FEH has over 106,000 miles on it. My service department recommended replacing/changing the eCVT fluid at 150,000 miles. Though I do change my engine oil ever 5,000 miles instead of the recommended 10,000 since my commute is all highway miles and I drive over 30,000 miles/year.
#24
Re: Time to change Auto Tranny Fluid
This eCVT is fundamentally different than others. It is gears and electric machines with no clutches and other stuff in earlier CVTs. Thus the fluid does not need the friction modifiers and such that these earlier units needed.
This unit is a large planetary gear set and the CVT capability comes from the computer controlled interaction of the three machines that input power to it (ICE & two electric synchronous machines)
There is no filter to remove wear particles & water (condensation).
I changed mine to Mobil One ATF very early after purchase. Mobil One ATF meets Ford Specs for the eCVT in the Escape Hybrid.
In my experience Mobil One is superior and provides technical info about their oil. While Amsoil is fully synthetic and may be as good technically it relies only on testimonials. When I sought technical info I couldn't find it.
I looked at other "synthetics" and when I pulled up their Material Safety Data Sheets they were dino oil based with synthetic packages added. I wanted 100% synthetic oil.
I changed my oil early, 634 miles, because I wanted the superior wear reduction of synthetic oils. Since there is no filter, then you need to minimize the production of wear particles since they accelerate wear as they build up. I have drained the oil, filtered it, & returned it to the unit several times.
The wear reduction has the benefit of slightly improved fuel mileage and extended lifetime of the vehicle. Once I figure out how to put together and install a "kidney loop" filter system I'll post the info.
This unit is a large planetary gear set and the CVT capability comes from the computer controlled interaction of the three machines that input power to it (ICE & two electric synchronous machines)
There is no filter to remove wear particles & water (condensation).
I changed mine to Mobil One ATF very early after purchase. Mobil One ATF meets Ford Specs for the eCVT in the Escape Hybrid.
In my experience Mobil One is superior and provides technical info about their oil. While Amsoil is fully synthetic and may be as good technically it relies only on testimonials. When I sought technical info I couldn't find it.
I looked at other "synthetics" and when I pulled up their Material Safety Data Sheets they were dino oil based with synthetic packages added. I wanted 100% synthetic oil.
I changed my oil early, 634 miles, because I wanted the superior wear reduction of synthetic oils. Since there is no filter, then you need to minimize the production of wear particles since they accelerate wear as they build up. I have drained the oil, filtered it, & returned it to the unit several times.
The wear reduction has the benefit of slightly improved fuel mileage and extended lifetime of the vehicle. Once I figure out how to put together and install a "kidney loop" filter system I'll post the info.
#25
Re: Time to change Auto Tranny Fluid
Bill, how difficult is changing the AT fluid compared to, say, changing the engine oil? Do you need a lift?
#26
Re: Time to change Auto Tranny Fluid
Not difficult at all. You need a 10mm hex key, or Allen Wrench, to remove the plugs. They are accessible on the drivers side of the transaxle.
The drain plug is directly accessible on the underside while the fill plug on the front side of the transaxle requires you to remove the plastic fairing piece under the transaxle to get to it. The manual calls for you to then cut a hole in the fairing piece for future access to the fill plug. I chose not to cut that hole to preserve its ability to keep road spray out of the transaxle area.
JackStands not needed. You can do this with your Hybrid on its own suspension.
The drain plug is directly accessible on the underside while the fill plug on the front side of the transaxle requires you to remove the plastic fairing piece under the transaxle to get to it. The manual calls for you to then cut a hole in the fairing piece for future access to the fill plug. I chose not to cut that hole to preserve its ability to keep road spray out of the transaxle area.
JackStands not needed. You can do this with your Hybrid on its own suspension.
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