I've replaced quite a few power lock actuators over the years. I've even installed actuators into cars that didn't originally come with power locks. So I didn't think I'd have much trouble replacing the actuator in my HAH. But this job did prove rather difficult. So, if you're really not that handy or mechanically inclined, you'd be better served to just take it to the Honda dealer and let them do it.

I think somewhere around the end of the 3 year/36K mile warranty, my driver's side front power lock started to lose it's vigor. When I hit unlock, all the other locks would pop up and the driver side front door would slowly come up. Same when I would lock my car, it would slowly lock. Sometimes, it took two hits of lock or unlock to get the lock to actually move. So at around 37K, I took my car into the Honda dealer and they were nice enough to replace it under warranty. The part number listed on the repair order was 72155-SDA-A01. And the estimate says $96. I don't see where it lists the labor hours, but there's a 1.8 in front of the entry that says they removed the door panel and replaced the lock actuator. That sounds about how long it took me to do mine today.

Then I think it was around 50K or 55K, my passenger side front lock actuator started to show the same symptoms. Since I was at the Honda Dealer for an ATF service, I thought I'd stroll over to the parts counter to see how much a new lock actuator would cost. $27.04 was the list price. However, since I bought my car from them, I usually always get 10% off my purchases at the parts counter. Again, the part number was 72115-SDA-A01. I hadn't planned on replacing the lock actuator yet, but thought I'd purchase it then so that when I do get around to replacing it, I'd already have the part and not have to worry about driving down to the dealer to pick it up. And even worse, go down there and they don't have it in stock.

Well, that was yesterday. Today seemed like a really good day to work on a car, so I decided to head into the garage and pull that door apart.

 

Here's a pic of the part and bag it came in:

 

First things first. If your power lock is exhibiting the same symptoms as described above, you may very well need a new lock actuator. If you're so inclined to do this job yourself, I'll walk you through testing your current one and then walk you through the steps I took to replace mine. Like the other threads I've made about DIY maintenance and repair, do so at your own risk. And, minimize that risk by taking every safety precaution for yourself and your car. If you're unsure about how to perform something, it seems unsafe, or you're unqualified to do it yourself, please take your car to a mechanic.

 

Door Lock Actuator Test

When the door panel is removed, and you have access to the lock acutator, pull the 2-pin connector off the bottom of the actuator. You check the operation of the actuator by applying voltage (12V battery) to one pin and ground to the other pin. Just do this momentarily so as not to burn out the motor. Then switch the +12V and ground around. One way should make the actuator push and the other should make the actuator pull. If that's good, then you have a problem elsewhere. If it's weak, or doesn't move at all, then you more than likely need a new actuator.

 

To remove the door panel, use EXTRA caution and EXTRA finesse, as there are connections behind the door panel that must be removed before the panel can come off. And any forceful prying can bend and crease the door panel.

Recommended tool is a trim pad remover, available at any autoparts stores. Maybe even at car audio electronics specialty shops. The service manual states a Snap-on part number of A 177A.

I did this job on the passenger front door. If you do another door, these steps may be close, but require a little interpolation to figure out what to do.

After opening the door, lower the glass all the way.

The first thing I removed was the cover that's behind the inner door handle. There are two tabs that hold it on. One in the middle rear of the cover and one in the top front. I used a knife and gently pried on the cover where the top front tab is and it came off easily. With that cover removed, remove the two phillips head screws. I laid the screws next to the cover, so I'd remember those two screws go there.

Next, remove the power window switch panel. There are several points where they clip into the door panel. Start at the rear by using a standard head screwdriver and prying it up gently until it pops up. Then by using your fingers, pry it off the rest of the way, working from rear to front. Again, finesse. Don't go breaking anything! Then unclip the connector on the underside of that panel. There's a release, so make sure you use that before pulling on the connector.

After that's removed, I used a screwdriver to pull out the rubber pocket cap where the grab handle is on the door panel. That cover isn't snapped in, so should just pull right out. Then take out the one phillips head screw down there. Like with the previous screws, I kept this one with the rubber pocket cap to keep things tidy.

Next is the mirror mount cover. Grab it with both hands and pull the top out and away from the door. It should snap right off. As soon as the top comes off, pull the cover upwards to remove it.

 

Now the door panel comes off. To do so, start at the bottom edge of the door panel, and ever so gently, start pulling it from the door. Do as little bending of the door panel as possible. It's too easy to bend/crease the door panel if you're not careful. There are 7 clip type fasteners that hold the door panel onto the door. 2 on the front, 2 on bottom, and 3 along the rear. After you've pulled the door panel away and all 7 fasteners are off, look behind the door panel and detach the inner handle cable and the courtesy light bulb socket. The socket just rotates out of the housing. The inner handle cable has a clip that pops off, then rotates out of the way. Then pull the cable free. Be sure you're paying attention to how all the cables and wires run as you'll have to make sure everything is in the right spot when you reassemble everything. A tip is to take pictures along the way of anything that you'll need to remember how to install. That way, if you forget if the cable goes on top of the run or on the bottom, you can refer to your pictures. When both of those items are free, put the door panel in a safe place where you won't step on it.

 

Okay, so this is what you'll see when you pull the door panel off:



The black cable that protrudes from the middle of the door and projects up and to the left is the inner handle cable. That's the cable that pulls the locking mechanism to open your door when you pull on the inner door handle.

The wire that's dangling there with a light at the end is the courtesy light bulb socket. That's the light that's on when you open your door that illuminates the ground below your door.

At this point, I'd like to say that I've had a lot of door panels off through the years. This HAH looks very well insulated from moisture, dirt, and sound. I'm very impressed at the details that went into this car.

 

Here's the back side of the door panel:



Again, more insulation. Also, you can make out the white clips that hold the door panel onto the door.

 

Here is what the inside of the door looks like with the plastic sheet pulled back:



You'll have to pull the sheet back to get into the door where the lock actuator is. Also, this is a good time to reconnect the power window switch to the door and roll UP the window, so you'll have more room to work in the door.

 

I didn't take many pics after this point because, as I was getting into the job, I was constantly looking back and forth between the door and the service manual to see how everything is connected on the inside. The service manual only took me this far. The next step in the book is to replace the lock actuator. But, it doesn't say how!

So, what I did was to remove the (I think 10mm) bolt that's visible in the pic above. That bolt holds the window track. Removing that bolt allowed me to move the window track a bit so I had more room. Then, I had to feel around inside the door as everything you need to get to is behind that piece of sheet metal running up the right side of that picture.

First thing, I disconnected both the 2-pin connector and the 3-pin connector from the lock actuator. Then I had to feel around inside to find the rod connected to the outside door handle. I found another connection like from when I had to take the inner handle cable out of the door panel. It snaps off the cable and rotates out of the way. It does so on both ends of that rod, but I found it easier to take off the side that's on the door lock mechanism.

Now is a good time to mention that everything is connected to that door lock mechanism, including the power door lock actuator. That's actually connected to the bottom of the door lock mechanism. So I had to remove it to get to the lock actuator.

To remove the door lock mechanism, I had to remove the three phillips head screws that are on the rear of the door. You'll know the place as that's where the door latches onto the lug that's on the door frame when you shut the door. With those three screws removed, the door lock mechanism was free to begin the fun part!