I keep reading threads about the dredded transmission shudder so thought the CVT tranny was defective. The tranny mount broke while driving up a bumpy/windy road. After that it not only shuddered heavily, but I heard a big 'thunk' while starting out. When I located the mount I saw that the rubber was torn away on the upper part of the inside of the mount. The mount housing is a donut of aluminum, inside is rubber, inside the rubber is a metal bolt shaft. Where the rubber was torn away I was able to stick mu little finger all the way through.

I didn't buy a mount but repaired the old one.

Repairing a transmission mount on a 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid
$259 msrp for a tranny mount is nuts... So is $150....
I repaired mine for $2! 2' of 3/8" (id) rubber hose and Goop.
First, remove the battery and box it's in so you can get to the mount
Clean out any torn rubber from the mount & clean inner surfaces surfaces with alcohol on a rag.
Cut the hose in 3" pieces, one at a time cover the outside of each tube with Goop
Use a short screwdiver to hold the tube while you force the rubber tubes into the mount.
This repair takes an hour , using minimal tools or skill-set
Then, let it sit overnight to cure. It works!

Not only does it work but the tranny shudder disappeared. It was the mount causing the shudder all the time.

 

Fixed.

You have no evidence to claim that your fix works reliably. $100 for an aftermarket mount that is likely to last another 100K isn't unreasonable.

Furthermore, I have no confidence that Ms. Paltrow has any expertise in adhesives:

https://goop.com/

 

Joke? Goop adhesive is not made by Paltrow's Goop company.

 

This 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid has 213,000 miles on it. These cars start falling apart at 200,000. Last month it was the door locks wearing out. $57 for a cylinder and three hours to replace. I don't remove the ignition key because those tumblers are wearing out also. The ignition lock is $500, so the key stays in... The cheapest I found for the tranny mount was $103 with $50 shipping to Hawaii. And the time it takes to change the mount, the busted knuckles, etc. This cheap/fast repair has lasted more than a week, 400 miles, and will probably out-last the car, when I finally sell it for parts.

 

Are you sure? I had thought the same thing about mine but tried getting a new key first, and that fixed it. At least temporarily.

I believe that the tumbler pins in most locks are steel, while the keys are usually either brass or coated brass, which is much softer. So the keys wear out before the lock pins. This isn't a car lock, but it is more or less the same mechanism:

http://lockpickingforensics.com/normal_wear.php

 

And how much was the chipped key? I didn't want to buy a key after reading all the blogs about locks wearing out. The door keys failed one at a time. First the trunk. then the drivers door, finally the passenger door. Had the key worn out you would think that it would fail on all the locks at one time, and not over the course of three months..

 

It was around $50. One local dealer was about 10% less than the other, so that's where I went. My key still worked well in the doors and trunk, it just flopped around slightly in the ignition switch. Also the ignition wouldn't always turn - sometimes it was necessary to wiggle the key a bit up and down to get it to work.

Even if it is wearing out, why does it have to stay in the ignition? The usual symptoms of a worn key are that the lock won't turn, not that the key won't go into the cylinder. (In fact my wife's Accord has the same key blank and I'm always putting the wrong key in the door on these cars. They go in fine in any combination, it just won't turn.) If the cylinder is getting sticky, so that they pins won't move out of the way for the key to go in, lubing it might be the answer. Small shot of graphite maybe? (Not oil or WD40, that will gum it up eventually.)

The key isn't bent is it? That can make it really hard to put a key in.

 

Forgot to mention that we have/had two keys for that car. My wife almost never uses hers and it worked in the ignition with no problem. Mine, which was used all the time, had problems. That pretty clearly indicated that it was my key having problems and not the lock cylinder.

 

Here are the pics. The repair looks ugly but has held up for three weeks and 600 miles.

 

After almost three months of driving, the repaired mount is holding.