I got these codes:

P1600
P1433

 

A bad 12V will typically cause others as well, so it's inconclusive. The pack is likely not as bad as the IMA light indicated, but it's definitely deteriorated.

Do you get the aforementioned recalibrations on even a semi-regular basis? If so, then the battery is imbalanced, and an IMA light will return.

 

Yeah I was getting those. 153K miles on a factory battery, I'm sure it's imbalanced.

I have someone interested in it, things were looking good until she asked "Can you explain the situation with the light for the battery?"

I'm sure it will sound complicated and un-interest her in the car. We'll see though.

 

IMHO, you need to disclose the issue before it's asked and explain what it means. If you had any intent of deception, I would have offered no assistance.

You are selling a car that requires maintenance due to a major pending failure, particularly if you're in an area that requires emissions testing. It may or may not pass emissions.

The sole remedy for that DTC is replacing the battery pack. Period. You are selling a car that needs a new battery pack. Period.

KBB puts your car at $3300 value assuming it's in the top 3%. I know NADA is a little higher than that; however, you have a KNOWN issue with a major component that costs over $2,000 to replace on the low end. Your asking price of $3,900 is out in left field.

I have the ability to fix these myself. And I would put the value of your car at $1,800 tops because I know that tearing into that pack would tell me I have a lot of degraded sticks that won't last long.

You're selling a problem, not a car.

Do the right thing. Disclose and price it accordingly.

Steve

 

BTW... every single category on KBB states, "no major mechanical problems". You fail this in even the "fair" condition value of ~$2,500.

Your situation is no different than an ad that says "needs new transmission".

 

Sorry to confuse -- no, no intention of any deception. I stated in my ad that it's a hybrid and that the "IMA battery light comes and goes." with the intent to explain further if someone is interested in the car. I am hoping that she looks up the IMA battery stuff herself, but if not I'll explain it in more detail when we meet.

My response to her was this:
Being a Hybrid, it is powered two ways: a gasoline engine, and an electric motor (IMA = Integrated Motor Assist).

The car has two batteries: Your standard 12V battery under the hood used for starting the car, powering accessories etc., and the "IMA battery" which is behind the rear seat and used to power the electric motor. During certain types of acceleration, this electric motor will kick on to increase power and/or MPG.

Typical MPG from these cars is in the 40-50 MPG range. As this IMA battery wears down, sometimes the IMA light will come on to let you know that it is wearing down, and one may also notice reduced MPG. I typically get 37-38 MPG; my wife got 43-44 MPG.

Eventually this IMA battery may need to be replaced, or charged via a "grid charger".

I know that $3,900 is way left-field, but Craigslist is a place you normally can't sell anything without being haggled-to-death over the price. There's a large haggle-factor built in there. Really hoping someone who knows these cars and hybrids would see it on there and be interested. I don't expect $3,900. I want to leave the least amount of money on the table in the deal as possible while still giving someone a fair deal on a car in otherwise excellent condition.

Regarding pricing, I came up with the following:
NADA Clean Trade: $2,400
NADA Clean Retail: $4,100
KBB PP Excellent: $3,170
KBB PP Very Good: $2,907

I've already been down the road of battery costs and weighed my options. In my situation, it was better for me to just buy a new car because I was bored of this one, didn't feel like messing with it, and could afford a new one.

Bumblebee batteries are $2,095 + labor. I'd basically have to give the car away for free if I deducted the cost of the battery & labor.

There was another option, conditioning through The Hybrid Shop, where you can get your pack rebuilt/reconditioned for $1200-$1800. HybridRevolt offers refurb battery packs for $1,200.

A grid charger may get it good enough to get through emissions if the codes reappear before going through emissions inspection, if that route were selected.

The most unfortunate thing here is that a car in perfect condition that consistently gets 37-40 MPG is considered "trash" because of a stupid battery back.

 

What is the absolute most economical way to replace the battery pack?

eBaying the car may be the best bet. This car below went up for auction needing a battery pack and was able to pull $2,450, and it is in much worse condition than mine. That's why I feel that this isn't a complete loss here. There is interest in them at least from certain people.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Civic-...torefresh=true

^^See above

 

You're "bored" with this car. I have a hard time relating to that. "Boredom" stems from a need to be entertained, and as an adult, I find the concept immature and representative of an underdeveloped human being.

As a result of your "boredom," you wish to push your problem onto someone else.

No one thinks the car is crap. YOU think it has value that it doesn't. Bottom line... the car is an 11 year old high mileage car in need of major repairs to restore it to reliability. "Crap" is a superficial description.

The reality is that you have driven this car to the point of pending failure. Perhaps now you feel it's unfair that you should bear the cost of your own use?

Ask yourself... if the transmission in a normal car was skipping gears, slipping and showing other signs of pending failure, how would YOU look at it as a prospective buyer? THAT is what you're selling. You need to accept that.

Concerning replacement, how do you define economical? Total cost? Cost per mile? Minimum amount of personal labor time, etc.? Without understanding your definition, I can't offer guidance as my standard of "economical" is as follows:

Including the purchase of parts and equipment, if I can conduct my own repair for significantly less than the cost to have a repair done by a third party or at no greater inconvenience, than the most economical solution is DIY.

My standard for "economical" for third party repairs is to obtain the longest lasting repair for the least money possible, within reason.

Case 1) I have 5 hybrids. 4 of 5 have needed batteries. I've bought hardware and developed techniques to accomplish that. Long-term reliability isn't a major concern because I can repeat the process in less time and restore to reliability.

Case 2) HCH2 compressor went out. Dealer wanted $2000. I did it myself for less than $500. With a salvage compressor from a lower mileage car, I have no warranty; however, I can repeat this repair 3 more times for the same price as the dealer and likely get as much or more longevity from my repairs for the same or less cost.

 

Way too many absolutely incorrect assumptions about me and the car to even begin to address them.

I thank you for your time and wish you luck.

 

I don't need any luck. I'm not trying to sell my problem to someone else.

I don't wish you luck with any misguided attempt to get value where you offer nothing in return.

I will give you this advice: you're over-explaining the IMA light. "It depends on the code, but when it comes on, the vast majority of the time, the Honda service manual says the battery needs to be replaced."