"You're not giving enough information" you say.
"You're over-explaining and giving too much information" you say.

That's very helpful, thanks!

Every car has problems, what the heck does that even mean...

"Misguided attempt to get value", whatever that means. I told you from the beginning I was looking for advice on selling the thing. I didn't say "Help me rip someone off". What I specifically asked, and what you think I'm looking for, are completely off-base, and it's rather ridiculous you even arrived to this conclusion.

 

It's this statement that tells me your state of mind. You are assigning value where there is none.

37-40mpg? Sure. For now. Low to mid 30s for mixed-mode driving will be more typical as the battery continues to deteriorate. In-town driving mileage will plummet to the 20s typical for non-hybrids and even get a little worse than non-hybrids if forced regens are frequent. These aren't "maybe" situations. They are certainties and likely sooner rather than later (depending on driving conditions and environment).

Your car isn't anywhere near "perfect condition.". A major mechanical system has failed, and you refuse to take the Honda service recommendations. Again, no different than a slipping transmission that is skipping a gear or two. Sure, it still works, but it's not working right, and you don't know for how long.

It fails to meet all KBB criteria. You have an $1800-2000 car. Period. Any perception of value beyond that or a similar amount is delusional.

If you take additional steps to confirm the state of the health of the battery, then perhaps you can argue for more value. Invest in a grid charger/discharger. Charge/discharge the pack. Confirm the IMA will operate well for 1-2 months before it needs another charge, and THEN you have value to argue as you can demonstrate, yes, this major system has failed; however, here are measurable results demonstrating that failure isn't imminent.

Before you spend any money, get some real info. Pull the IMA cavity cover and check the 10 tap voltages. If they're all consistent within 0.2V (maybe 0.3V) 30 minutes after driving, then it will very likely respond to a grid charge. Of course, the more out of whack they are, the worse the pack will perform and the less likely a grid charge will help. 0.6V or more, and you likely have a failed or marginal cell, and the pack needs to be rebuilt/replaced.

Of course, the above requires an investment of time and/or $. Can you overcome your "boredom" to actually deal with it instead of push the problem onto someone else?

Steve

 

Just curious as to what the end result of this was as I am going through an almost identical scenario with the same car

 

OP hasn't posted before or since. He probably won't be back since he didn't like what he heard.


Here are my recommendations:


1) Full disclosure: "This car has a failed IMA battery. It is still mostly drivable. It has reduced power due to the loss of the IMA assist. It still gets very good highway mileage, but the city mileage is substantially lower than rated. If the battery continues to deteriorate, 12V charging may become disabled. If this occurs, there is a bypass procedure that can restore 12V charging at about 1500-3500rpm, which usually makes the car reliably drivable again with sufficient 12V charging. The car will not pass emissions testing with a failed IMA battery."
2) Discount accordingly (replacement refurb backs from Bumblebee are about $1350).
3) Most importantly - ask yourself what you would pay for this car knowing the situation it is in. Price it accordingly.

 

if i was selling... id be asking about $1500.... trade in value.. with light on.. about 400-500

 

Given the elapsed time, I would definitely lower my initial estimate of $1800-2000 closer to $1500.

Trade-in? I'd feel grateful for anything...