I installed my electric water pump, it was very simple to install. Basically the pump was a direct replacement, and the belt then needed to be 4" shorter.

I installed a normally open relay onto an open spot on the relay holder (there were 2 open spots), and wired the positive of the pump from the alternator terminal, to a autoresetting circuit breaker, to the relay and then from the relay to the positive terminal on the pump and then the negative on the pump I ran to a ground lug on the engine. The control circuit I ran power from the fuel pump relay to the new relay to ground. Everytime the fuel pump is running the water pump is on. This is good.

So far my last couple tanks I'm running about 1-1.5 MPG more than I've ever run (32-32.5), and I had it on the dyno rollers and it is good for 8.7HP at peak.

124.4hp @ 5250rpm stock
133.1hp @ 5250rpm w/ electric pump

My next move is to install a new ECM #1 so I can use TunercatRT to burn my own custom PROM chips, and #2 the new ECM will run the GM 4T60E electronic 4sp Automatic.

I'm also working on installing an electric hydraulic power steering pump from a Toyota MR2, this will need a new idler pulley and a shorter belt.

 

Thanks Jeff!

I grew up in the 60's-70's and my dad drove a 1969 Plymouth Fury III with a 318CI V8.
My dad would sometimes remove the belt for the AC compressor pump, that belt only ran the pump. He said it made a differnce but not sure how much.

I do know that we raised our stock 2001 Grand Caravan from around 16-17MPG up to the low 20's simply by not gassing it excessively and keeping it under 65MPH.
That's with my wife driving who has no interest what-so-ever about hypermiling.

 

It shouldn't make any significant difference. Belt driven A/C's have a clutch to engage the compressor. If the A/C isn't on, the clutch should be open and the engine should be doing no work other than make the belt move and the pulley spin.

 

The difference in practicially nill. The power steering pump and the water pump are the two worst offenders of drag on the engine. I plan on taking care of both of those issues.

The also say that 50/50 mix coolant has a measurable bit more resistance to the water pump blades that straight water. Which is why you go racing with 90/10% water/coolant and a bottle of Redline Water Wetter to keep the cooling system from corroding. Plus water transfers heat better.

 

I thought one raced with Water Wetter instead of antifreeze because if you have a fluid leak on the track water/antifreeze is very slippery (as compared to water/WW) and it can be a safety hazard to other drivers.

 

No, water wetter has a glycerin in it plus some anti corrosion chemicals. For a street car they say never go any less than 90/10, but for a full race car, 100% water and water wetter is all you need.

The Glycerin removes alot of the surface tension in the water to allow the water to better coat surfaces and transfer heat than just water, and of course water/coolant mix.

Basically the mix is to allow higher boiling temps and also in cold climates to keep the water from freezing. Here is something that most people don't realize, 100% antifreeze will freeze just like water. it is the mix that makes the freezing point go down.

Jeff

 

O RLY?

http://www.cornerspeed.net/coolant.html

 

Sorry, I have only run 4 wheeled vehicles and both SCCA Solo II and IHRA/NHRA drag tracks have never had any rules like that. I usually took my street car and just gone racing. I can completely understand when racing a motorcycle, hitting the pavement at speed would hurt dearly.

I actually had a run in with coolant on the road. I had a friend with a 280ZX turbo and he was basically stating that his car would out corner my car, 1987 Cavalier Z24, well being 18 you take the challenge. We have a very tight S-curve here locally that the middle of the turn is a bridge over a 30 ft wide creek.

When I went through first and he followed one way and I actually pulled away from him through the turn. On the reverse, I was on him like glue, except this time he blew the lower radiator hose at about 50% of the way through the first turn. I had my Z24 instantly sideways at 65MPH, and holding on for dear life. Thank god for actually flipped into 'Drive on snow' mode and holding the turn sideways and all.

I'm sure same thing happened with just water in there I'd have just made the turns a little wider but perfectly under control.

Jeff

 

A 1968 Plymouth Fury III with a 318 was my first car in 1978, no A/C though.