So since my wife and I have owned the car in the past 3 years, a good amount of time we've had to move the key around to start the car. Okay no worries, well this past week it got to the point where we had to push the car very very hard to start. Well it finally stopped and will no longer start. Well I just replaced the ignition switch, wellll still won't crank. Left everything in and tried to do it with a flat head leaving out the lock and that pin. Still won't start, anti theft light isn't blinking fast. I tried resetting the car removing the neg and still won't start. I feel as if the starter is disengaged somehow. I tried moving it into park and N but still nothing. Battery has been working fine since I replaced it in september. Really lost on this one, any help would be awesome.

 

Are you saying that you can't get the key to turn or when you do get the key to turn it still won't start the truck? On mine sometimes you have to move the steering wheel back and forth while turning the key because it gets caught up. It won't ever start in neutral unless you are going above 6mph according to the Ford shop manuals. What do you mean by pushing the car to start it? Physically moving the entire vehicle? That doesn't make a lot of sense since it's not a manual so I need more info on that.

 

No the wheel is normal. Saying push the key in hard in order for it to start. Well now that the new switch is in, theoretically you should no longer have to move the key around or push it in to turn the switch. Well in my case the car will no longer crank at all. No matter how much you wiggle the key it will not crank. PATS is working as it should. All lights are on and normal, tried jumping hv battery. Still no crank at all.

 

Turn the car to the on position with no radio or climate control on. You should hear a distinctive click from the back, that is your contactor coming in for the high voltage battery.

 

Okay I will have to try when I get home. But everything sounds normal when the key is turned. All the noises and clicks coming from everywhere. But why would this all happen when the problem was having to move the key in order to start the car. But okay will have to try

 

Did it start happening right after you changed out the ignition or did it sometimes start? The Fords use a chip in the key that is read by the ignition that needs to be programmed to eachother. It would still turn since you bought the right tumbler, but without the right communication it wouldn't get the signal to start.

 

No it started months and months ago. Would have to move the key alittle and it would start. It progressively got worse over time and past week got to the point where it was stupid hard to start the car. Would have to really push the key in hard or wiggle it will slot or force. Now it got to the point where no matter how you wiggle or if you push it in, the car will not start. Well the car will not even crank at all. I can hear the relay under the hood when you go to start it as well so I'm just stumped on what todo. Would the lock tumbler being very worn cause this? Do I need to get a new one and re-program it to my old key? Willing to try just about anything. Just don't want to waste my money you know. Also so are you saying I need to reprogram it even if I only replaced the switch itself not the lock cylinder?

 

I was under the impression you already changed out the tumbler. How many keys do you have for the truck? Does one start the truck while the other won't? If you have two keys it is possible to pick up a spare and reprogram it yourself, but I think you have to have two fobs, definitely two chipped keys minimum for a new key. Could just be key wear but it's usually the tumbler. If it's physically messed up enough that it is a fight to get it to turn then it's possible that it would also have damaged contacts or a damaged reader, I don't know enough about them, but you have a physical problem with it so it's a good starting place.

Do you have a Scan Gauge II and a good volt meter? I'd like to run through a few basic things that could cause a no start before we start having to aim the parts cannon at it.

 

I don't have a scan gauge. I can get a multi-meter. Was going to check the pcm if there was power there but didn't get to it. I pulled the tumbler out and it's really loose. Sounds like the internals are loose, like makes a lot of notice when you move it around. The pin to turn the switch it self moves a lot inside of the center housing as well. I can order a new tumbler as that's not very expensive at 70$ for a oem part. The car only came with 1 key 🙄🙄. Regarding the damaged contacts what do you mean? The actual chips inside the tumblr or? Also the key will turn just fine, everything turns, wheel locks as it should etc. only part was moving the key while it was in the start position to actually crank the car. Thank you very much for being the only person with some knowledge as well. Haven't been able to find much on this situation.

 

I don't know a whole lot about ignitions at all. My basic car knowledge though says if it wobbles and it shouldn't that it should be pitched. I don't know if the sensor is integral to the tumbler or if it is inside the column somewhere. The fact that your car won't turn over but the key will generally means on these cars that the 12v battery isn't strong enough to engage the relays to start the car. I would be looking for an under the hood voltage with everything in the car off and cold above 12.4 as a minimum for being able to crank it over. It might start with less, but below that you start running into pcm issues.

What I would try is what I had to do to get mine to start with adding in a charger that I didn't need to but would have if the battery was lower. Put a charger on your 12v battery. Turn the key to on for 30 seconds, turn it to off for 30 second, repeat 3 times minimum. A lot of times that transfers power to the rear battery and it will start. With you already trying to do the jump start procedure I would be worried you drew the battery down, so put it on a charger if you have one or connect it with jumpers to a NON RUNNING car. If you do it extensively you might want to disconnect the cables and start the other car and run it around for a while, best way is with a charger though.