I installed another Motorcraft YH-1770 Blend Door Actuator on my Ford Escape a few days ago (thanks to Amazon's generous return/exchange program)... I still have the same problem, the car will work normally for the first 30 minutes to hour of the day, but then will not shut off at all and go into "hybrid mode" for the rest of the day.

When I took it to Ford a few weeks ago the only suggestion they had for me was to replace the Actuator (they offered to do the work for $750, that's why I did it myself). I would gladly take it back if I thought they would be able to give me an actual answer to my problem.

I know I've been dragging on this thread for a few weeks, but if there are any other suggestions of things to try I would love to hear them.

 

At this point, I can only suggest getting the factory service manual. It has enough flowcharts etc. that someone using it, with the right tools, should be able to diagnose pretty well anything.

 

This is what I'm thinking. When ever I replace an A/C compressor I not only replace the accumulator ( receiver dryer) and orifice tube I always install a new expansion valve.

 

I just started experiencing this issue today. I have a 2007 FEH 213k miles. Did you ever find out the cause? I purchased an OBDII reader to use with the Torque app. No codes other than the P028 that caused me to buy a Thermostat that I have yet to install. I found it interesting that the Trouble light that has been causing that error disappeared today as well.

 

Just an update... my Escape will still not go into EV mode after 30 minutes or so of driving in the morning...

Today Ford (my last ditch effort to figure this out after my mechanic and I couldn't) told me that my AC Compressor it leaking, that's the problem and it needs to be replaced.

I have some questions on changing it- I may be able to do it myself, but will definitely need my mechanic to evacuate and recharge the system.

Any tips on going about this job?

In other forums (and above) I've seen mentioned that not only the AC Compressor, but the Accumulator and Orifice Tube should be inspected and/or replaced. Those are connected to the Compressor in the front- but the Expansion Valve in the back should also be inspected and/or replaced?

Where is the rear Expansion Valve? I've changed the Rear Blend Door Actuator recently, so I've been back there, but where is the Expansion Valve? At the very least so I know what to tell my mechanic to look for.






...btw, to gcinelli, my Escape has been throwing many codes that later disappear too- I was told that because the hybrid battery isn't working properly it can cause any system to shows codes because the power going to it is "Out of Range" (too much or too little power being supplied). Did installing a new Thermostat help?

 

Well I just did my 08 AC system, compressor, condensor, drier can thingy, & expansion valve in the firewall, I was not aware of any add'l expansion valve in the rear.

It took me & my teen boy (skiny arms), a non-mechanic, about 2-3 hours to complete.
The hardest parts were the top bolts on the compressor, I had him manuever tools from the top, while I layed under & guided them to where they needed to be.
You have to disconnect the MECS cooling fan too, I didn't lose to much coolant.

I pretty much followed this as my how-to guide:

 

The expansion valve is a silver device about a foot forward of that YH1770 you changed out. If your tech doesn't know what an expansion valve looks like, do not let him touch your car

 

Well I was the tech.
Are you talking about the thing on the strut tower? (I can't seem to post a pic from my phone). I did not change that. I assume it must be good as the pack will cool off to about 77 after a few miles.

 

Expansion valve is that silver block with a round disk facing into the rear cabin area. It's on the part of the rear A/C assy that is farthest from the rear door.

Looks like this (generic photo): http://www.denso.com.sg/images/products/expansion.jpg

It acts as a carburetor for the refrigerant. Via the cap tube it senses the temp of the evaporator and adjusts flow as required to maintain the preset temp. They rarely fail. If it is working the downstream line (toward the evaporator coils) will be cooler than the feed line.

 

Bizzaro and others:

If EV mode works when cool (start of the day, first 30 minutes, etc.) and then not, it totally sounds like a too warm battery.

EV is disabled anytime the INTERNAL battery temperature reaches 96'F or above.
A/C comes on for the pack at 86'F and above but still allows EV.

I have the original pack in my 2005 and have over 198,000 miles. Everything is working normally, but my pack gets hot REALLY FAST even living in 40-65 degree San Francicso bay and uses A/C cooling on every drive now.

As the pack ages, internal resistance (ohms) goes up, and the battery becomes more and more like a bread toaster.

So far, my A/C works well enough that once 86 degrees is hit (10 or 15 minutes of drive on a 65 degree day) that it never reaches the upper trigger of 96 that turns off EV.

Once EV off is "triggered" here is the thing:
You need to get the battery to 85'F or cooler to re-enable EV.

How hot is it where you drive?

It could be other things.
But there is very high probably your lack of EV drive is temperature related.