I just bought this vehicle and am enjoying the drive dynamic and the learning process that goes with it. This forum helps enormously. Thanks to all of you who have shared many years of knowledge.

The only real issue this car has is a very loose front suspension. It definitely needs front struts and upper mounts. From some of the posts it looks like I should also plan to replace the lower front control arms. Is there anything else that is likely shot?

Steering wheel doesn't center, but there does not appear to be any pull. Tires are almost new. Is this something that needs looked at or is this normal? I saw a post or two that seemed to indicate something is different about the steering system, besides being electric assist.

Sway bars - does it have any? I don't like the body lean so would like to add bars. Any advice here?

 

It has a front sway bar. I just replaced the two lower front control arms, one outer tie rod and one front wheel bearing on my '09.

There's an explanation for why a bad alignment won't show up as a pull on the steering wheel. These Escapes have something called "pull drift technology" on the electric steering. It senses if you have constant pressure on the steering wheel turning one way or the other. Such as would be the case in a steady crosswind or on a crowned road. It then says "I can do that for you" and takes up the load on the steering system. This has the effect of reducing driver fatigue. But it has the unintended effect of masking misalignment. Since a bad alignment exerts a constant light pull on the steering.

It's important you get the front end fixed. Bad alignment not only means faster tire wear, poor handling and reduced mileage, it also means the vehicle is always in an incipient skid. There's a huge difference in friction between the tires with perfect alignment, and having the wheels running crooked. That may be tolerable on bare dry pavement, but on gravel, ice, snow, water etc. it means you're far closer to losing control. Not worth the consequences compared to the cost of an alignment. End of lecture.

Also, mine had yet another rattle in the front end. This turned out to be a loosening bolt at the universal joint/coupler in the steering shaft. If you have this, the other rattles will mask it. And you can't afford to have that bolt fall out. Try twitching the steering wheel rapidly back and forth about 1". When parked. There should be no rattles in the steering resulting from this.

 

Xspirit, thanks for the detailed reply, and I apologize for just getting back to you.

Just a cursory look at the components did not reveal anything alarming. Is there any particular symptom to tell me I need a control arm? I presume it's the ball joint which dictates replacement of the control arm, though I note the BJ is now available separately from Moog - for about the same price as the whole arm from Dorman.
I think I'll replace the struts and upper bearings and go from there.

 

To begin with, I made a mistake in my post. The sway bar bushing replacement I mentioned actually was an outer tire rod.

We just finished a 2-week 2000+ mile road trip that included rough gravel roads. On the second day, the front end began making rattling/clunking noises.

I jacked it up and checked the front wheels by yanking the tires side-to-side like steering, and also yanking the tops and bottoms of the tires in and out. It seemed the issue was with the left front wheel, in the steering motion. Along the way we were either beyond repair facilities, or when we finally were able to get to Ford dealerships and other repair places, they all either did not have the parts or were unable to do the repair within three days. So we kept going.

On the last day, it rained for a while. When we hit puddles at highway speed, the vehicle would veer like it was aquaplaning. I suspect the extra water pressure was causing the front wheels to turn away from each other. All this is far more consistent with a tie rod issue than ball joints or sway bar links.

From checking it myself, the loose side seemed to be the driver's side. But on seeing the repair invoice now, it was the left side tie rod that was replaced. So its next trip will be to the mechanic.

 

I think I am going to change out the complete strut assemblies, and check the tie rod ends while I have it off the ground. It doesn't look like there is any extra work to change the lower control arms later, other than lifting the car again. I'll change it all before EOY, just to know it's right.