Blend Door Actuators
#21
12-08-2011, 12:47 PM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
Looks like my FEH is making a sound similar to what others have described an percolating coffee maker. I suppose it is the blend door actuator and it is from behind the radio in the dash area. What happens if I ignore the sound? Will it not heat the cabin area of our Escape with it making this sound? It didn't do it all the time(make the noise). I guess I can take it to the Ford dealer and hopefully it will make noise while I am at the dealer.
#22
12-20-2011, 12:09 PM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
Anyone know where to get them on rock auto?
#23
12-29-2011, 04:21 PM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
There is also a Motorcraft unit available. Motorcraft # YH1750
Last edited by travelover; 12-29-2011 at 04:24 PM.
#24
01-01-2012, 04:54 PM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
crazy! I've had mine since early 08, put 120k miles on it and I've had those goofy noises since the thing was new (to me; I bought it w 2000 miles on it). I just thought it was relays operating inside the dash for some mysterious reason. I don't know if I've become deaf to them, or they've healed, or broken off at the stump! I get fine cabin heat though, and push the little recirc button fairly often and get the proper function.
I guess the only reason I'm posting is to let others know that you're probably safe to plan this work as part of another bigger service operation sometime when you can take your time and the weather's nice.
I guess the only reason I'm posting is to let others know that you're probably safe to plan this work as part of another bigger service operation sometime when you can take your time and the weather's nice.
#25
01-05-2012, 10:37 AM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
This past week I've had an intermittent VERY loud THUNK! about 5 times in a row when I start the car, and occasionally when I slow down for a corner. I took it in this AM, when I found it would reproduce reliably. I got to the dealer and the customer rep took one listen as said it was the blend door actuators in the dash.
He also said they have had a lot of trouble with the blend doors on the newer Mustang models, and that he wished they had stayed with the old wire pulley systems to move doors rather than the electronics.
No cost to me on my 100K extended warranty.
EDIT: The blend door listed on the invoice was for the defroster.
He also said they have had a lot of trouble with the blend doors on the newer Mustang models, and that he wished they had stayed with the old wire pulley systems to move doors rather than the electronics.
No cost to me on my 100K extended warranty.
EDIT: The blend door listed on the invoice was for the defroster.
Last edited by stevedebi; 01-06-2012 at 01:29 PM.
#26
02-27-2012, 08:47 AM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
I know this is an old thread, but since i just replaced both blend door actuators on a 2009 Escape, I figured I should write something up for others to use as a guide. It took me around 2 hours to complete, but I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what to unbolt so I could get to the actuator bolts. Sorry no pictures as I didn’t think of it until after I was done.
Use this guide at your own risk as I am not responsible for your actions or injury. Removal of the air bag is required, please disconnect the battery. If you don’t feel comfortable or qualified to remove the air bag then take your vehicle to the dealer. Change the lower actuator first so you can be aware of how the actuators splines align and the attachment method.
The lower actuator is easy to find and change out in under 10 minutes. It is located near the center console by the passenger's feet. It is attached by 2 bolts, 8mm I believe.
The upper actuator is directly above the lower actuator, but buried deep in the dash.
Remove the 3 bolts below the glove box attaching it to the dash. Open the glove box and squeeze the top edge and you can pull it completely out.
Looking up from below there are 2 two bolts holding the air bag in place. If you don’t feel comfortable removing the air bag then stop and take it to the dealer. Remove the two bolts and then pull the air bag out towards the passenger seat. Note that the airbag dash panel is attached to the air bag. The panel is held in place by a few clips around its circumference that easily release by being pressed in. After removal, disconnect the two air bag leads, there are releases on the sides and they pull straight out. Set the air bag aside somewhere safe.
Now you should be able to see the actuator looking in through the air bag hole with a flashlight. Remember it is directly above the lower actuator. You don’t have enough room to get to it, so you need to loosen the air ducts so that they can be pushed slightly out of the way.
Remove the trim around the display and vents above the stereo. There is a wire to disconnect with the clip that is accessible through the air bag opening. Next there are 4 bolts to remove from the vent tubes. I believe they are 7mm. All bolts are accessible through the air bag opening. Start at the left upper passenger vent and we will move to the right upper passenger vent. The first bolt is head facing up right near the vent exit. The second is a few inches below the first with the head facing the front of the car. The third is almost center in the air box opening on the metal support tube. The head of it is facing up. The last bolt is out of sight because it is on the front side of the vehicle above the vent tubes. If you wiggle the vent tubes you will find the bolt is directly towards the front of the vehicle from the passenger upper right vent. The head of it is facing down.
Now that the vent is free to wiggle and move, you will have just enough room to squeeze your hand over to the actuator. I was able to lift the vent up and pull it forward enough to get my hand and a ¼” socket wrench with a 8mm socket on to the 2 bolts holding the actuator in place. Have a file on hand to round off any sharp edges on the metal. I have cuts on my hand from a sharp edge I didn’t round down right away. Once loosened you should be able to use the socket and your hand to unscrew the 2 bolts and remove them. Don’t drop your socket or you will spend 10 minutes trying to find it buried in your dash.
The actuator should be able to lift up and out and then pulled into the air bag opening to disconnect the wire lead.
Attach the wire connector to the new actuator and shimmy it into the opening. Press it gently into place. You may need to twist it side to side to get the splines to align with the current opening of the door. Bolt it down and reassemble. Be sure to not reinstall the faulty actuator that you just removed or you will start throwing things across your garage.
Enjoy
Use this guide at your own risk as I am not responsible for your actions or injury. Removal of the air bag is required, please disconnect the battery. If you don’t feel comfortable or qualified to remove the air bag then take your vehicle to the dealer. Change the lower actuator first so you can be aware of how the actuators splines align and the attachment method.
The lower actuator is easy to find and change out in under 10 minutes. It is located near the center console by the passenger's feet. It is attached by 2 bolts, 8mm I believe.
The upper actuator is directly above the lower actuator, but buried deep in the dash.
Remove the 3 bolts below the glove box attaching it to the dash. Open the glove box and squeeze the top edge and you can pull it completely out.
Looking up from below there are 2 two bolts holding the air bag in place. If you don’t feel comfortable removing the air bag then stop and take it to the dealer. Remove the two bolts and then pull the air bag out towards the passenger seat. Note that the airbag dash panel is attached to the air bag. The panel is held in place by a few clips around its circumference that easily release by being pressed in. After removal, disconnect the two air bag leads, there are releases on the sides and they pull straight out. Set the air bag aside somewhere safe.
Now you should be able to see the actuator looking in through the air bag hole with a flashlight. Remember it is directly above the lower actuator. You don’t have enough room to get to it, so you need to loosen the air ducts so that they can be pushed slightly out of the way.
Remove the trim around the display and vents above the stereo. There is a wire to disconnect with the clip that is accessible through the air bag opening. Next there are 4 bolts to remove from the vent tubes. I believe they are 7mm. All bolts are accessible through the air bag opening. Start at the left upper passenger vent and we will move to the right upper passenger vent. The first bolt is head facing up right near the vent exit. The second is a few inches below the first with the head facing the front of the car. The third is almost center in the air box opening on the metal support tube. The head of it is facing up. The last bolt is out of sight because it is on the front side of the vehicle above the vent tubes. If you wiggle the vent tubes you will find the bolt is directly towards the front of the vehicle from the passenger upper right vent. The head of it is facing down.
Now that the vent is free to wiggle and move, you will have just enough room to squeeze your hand over to the actuator. I was able to lift the vent up and pull it forward enough to get my hand and a ¼” socket wrench with a 8mm socket on to the 2 bolts holding the actuator in place. Have a file on hand to round off any sharp edges on the metal. I have cuts on my hand from a sharp edge I didn’t round down right away. Once loosened you should be able to use the socket and your hand to unscrew the 2 bolts and remove them. Don’t drop your socket or you will spend 10 minutes trying to find it buried in your dash.
The actuator should be able to lift up and out and then pulled into the air bag opening to disconnect the wire lead.
Attach the wire connector to the new actuator and shimmy it into the opening. Press it gently into place. You may need to twist it side to side to get the splines to align with the current opening of the door. Bolt it down and reassemble. Be sure to not reinstall the faulty actuator that you just removed or you will start throwing things across your garage.
Enjoy
#27
04-21-2023, 04:14 PM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
What a pain the neck. I just bought a 2009 Escape Hybrid and one of the first things I noticed was this sound coming from behind the radio and heater controls, sounded like a pot of coffee percolating, after doing some research on these forums found out it was the Blend Door Actuator. Now there are 2 of these darn things, one is easy to change from under the dash and the other is a nightmare and a half! So I bought one at the dealership and replaced the lower one, thought I nailed it but then started hearing the noise again so I knew I had to change out the other, Grrrrr, but was able to get it done and no more coffee brewing behind my dash! If anyone needs any help or guidance in changing these shoot me a message, I'll be glad to help.
PS. Shame on your Ford for making such a crappy part, these things seem to go out all the time, even the one in the rear for the battery cooling. Just glad I am handy and can tackle these projects myself for only the cost of the parts!
PS. Shame on your Ford for making such a crappy part, these things seem to go out all the time, even the one in the rear for the battery cooling. Just glad I am handy and can tackle these projects myself for only the cost of the parts!
#28
07-27-2023, 03:30 AM
Re: Blend Door Actuators
What a pain the neck. I just bought a 2009 Escape Hybrid and one of the first things I noticed was this sound coming from behind the radio and heater controls, sounded like a pot of coffee percolating, after doing some research on these forums found out it was the Blend Door Actuator. Now there are 2 of these darn things, one is easy to change from under the dash and the other is a nightmare and a half! So I bought one at the dealership and replaced the lower one, thought I nailed it but then started hearing the noise again so I knew I had to change out the other, Grrrrr, but was able to get it done and no more coffee brewing behind my dash! If anyone needs any help or guidance in changing these shoot me a message, I'll be glad to help.
PS. Shame on your Ford for making such a crappy part, these things seem to go out all the time, even the one in the rear for the battery cooling. Just glad I am handy and can tackle these projects myself for only the cost of the parts!
PS. Shame on your Ford for making such a crappy part, these things seem to go out all the time, even the one in the rear for the battery cooling. Just glad I am handy and can tackle these projects myself for only the cost of the parts!
i really need your help guiding me to remove the temperature blend door actuator for ac(dashboard passenger side upper one) i removed the glove box and the air bag, but i can only see the down actuator which i guess for air recycle between outside and inside the car(correct me if i am wrong), i just cant see the upper one, and do you think it is accessible if i remove the radio and ac unit completely, or i have to access the actuator from airbag opening, thank you
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