Brake Issues help
#1
06-22-2018, 02:12 PM
Brake Issues help
2008 Escape Hybrid 2wd, is my nephews car. Had Pep Boys install new pads and days later the right front caliper was locking up causing the rotor to glow. Returned to pep boys who was unable to find the issue and then on to the Ford dealer who also could not find the issue. They picked it up and parked it in the yard and has been sitting for a year while my nephew made payments on it. He paid it off and finally towed it across the state for me to look at it. The rotor is still seizing up until I crack open the bleeder at which time it releases. But no fluid at all. I’m thinking it’s a brake hose failure but as this whole system is new/ different I am unsure if it’s the HCU not allowing fluid to pass or just a common brake line. Any insight would be appreciated.
#2
06-22-2018, 07:11 PM
Re: Brake Issues help
Assuming you don't have any dash ABS or Brake Failure indicator lights on?
I climbed a very steep hill on our farm a year ago and on the way home noticed that the vehicle was pulling to the left. Got out and the left front rotor was smoking. I had some water and slowly cooled everything off. When I got home I jacked it up and noticed the pads were engaged somewhat. I did the same as you in that I loosened the bleed screw and the caliper released. I did get a "squirt" of fluid and then a slow dribble.
For some reason I wondered if I had a air bubble in the line. So I bled this rotor and did see a small air bubble come out a short time after I loosened the bleed screw. I then drove it for probably a week and over 200 miles and no issues. I latter replaced all rotors/pads/calipers and hoses. The hoses are known to collapse inside and cause lockup.
I can only figure that after I left the farm and got some heat in the system that the air bubble expanded and maybe there is some reason it never got relief back through the ABS/Hydraulic unit. Climbing that hill must have released some trapped air somewhere in the HCU and it traveled to that wheel.
Please take note that I took the battery cable off and used a pressure bleeder to do something similar to this procedure from another forum shown here:
http://productforum.autorepairdata.c...ead.php?t=5529
Good Luck!
I climbed a very steep hill on our farm a year ago and on the way home noticed that the vehicle was pulling to the left. Got out and the left front rotor was smoking. I had some water and slowly cooled everything off. When I got home I jacked it up and noticed the pads were engaged somewhat. I did the same as you in that I loosened the bleed screw and the caliper released. I did get a "squirt" of fluid and then a slow dribble.
For some reason I wondered if I had a air bubble in the line. So I bled this rotor and did see a small air bubble come out a short time after I loosened the bleed screw. I then drove it for probably a week and over 200 miles and no issues. I latter replaced all rotors/pads/calipers and hoses. The hoses are known to collapse inside and cause lockup.
I can only figure that after I left the farm and got some heat in the system that the air bubble expanded and maybe there is some reason it never got relief back through the ABS/Hydraulic unit. Climbing that hill must have released some trapped air somewhere in the HCU and it traveled to that wheel.
Please take note that I took the battery cable off and used a pressure bleeder to do something similar to this procedure from another forum shown here:
http://productforum.autorepairdata.c...ead.php?t=5529
Good Luck!
Last edited by LonnieU; 06-22-2018 at 07:14 PM.
#3
06-23-2018, 04:03 PM
Re: Brake Issues help
Well I replaced the line and bled the brakes, worked great all day. I had parked I. The drive way and came out to find the abs light check brakes and regen brake inop message. Drove down the street and back and cycled the key and it went out. Fired it back up and let it sit while I grabbed something in the House came back out and there it was again. Drove again and it has been gone. May try to re bleed the system tomorrow.
#4
06-24-2018, 08:27 PM
Re: Brake Issues help
There are many posts about failing HCU's on this forum. Search by HCU or brakes.
When the HCU is activated, it pressurizes an accumulator tank on the bottom of the HCU. It then runs a diagnostic test of the system. One of the things it does is looks to see if the pressure on each wheel is at or near zero. I didn't include on my post that the air bubble suspicion was also confirmed as I could read the pressure in real time with this software. With the system cold, the pressure was at zero. After warming up, the left front would be somewhere above zero and fail diagnostics and post a code indicating that. After bleeding, it was around zero hot or cold.
Please be sure to read at least this one:
https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...es-help-31530/
And especially post #12 by Lois0697. That's probably the latest thread on diagnosing HCU issues.
It's best to download the free Ford diagnostics program called "FORSCAN". It's as close to Fords ETIS diagnostics system you'll find. You can run it on Android, IOS, or Windows (which gives you the most options).
You will need a OBDII Interface Module also. It's best to go with the Bluetooth units if your going to do Android or Windows. IOS requires a WiFi unit IIRC.
I have used these Bluetooth units:
& The last one cost more but has worked the best with other programs I use on other vehicles.
Ford uses High and Low speed CANBUS for communications to different modules in the vehicles and these units perform automatic switching in the FORSCAN software. You can get cheaper with wired USB cables, but had issues with some across all my vehicles as i spoke of above and some require mods to switch modes.
When the HCU is activated, it pressurizes an accumulator tank on the bottom of the HCU. It then runs a diagnostic test of the system. One of the things it does is looks to see if the pressure on each wheel is at or near zero. I didn't include on my post that the air bubble suspicion was also confirmed as I could read the pressure in real time with this software. With the system cold, the pressure was at zero. After warming up, the left front would be somewhere above zero and fail diagnostics and post a code indicating that. After bleeding, it was around zero hot or cold.
Please be sure to read at least this one:
https://www.greenhybrid.com/forums/f...es-help-31530/
And especially post #12 by Lois0697. That's probably the latest thread on diagnosing HCU issues.
It's best to download the free Ford diagnostics program called "FORSCAN". It's as close to Fords ETIS diagnostics system you'll find. You can run it on Android, IOS, or Windows (which gives you the most options).
You will need a OBDII Interface Module also. It's best to go with the Bluetooth units if your going to do Android or Windows. IOS requires a WiFi unit IIRC.
I have used these Bluetooth units:
& The last one cost more but has worked the best with other programs I use on other vehicles.
Ford uses High and Low speed CANBUS for communications to different modules in the vehicles and these units perform automatic switching in the FORSCAN software. You can get cheaper with wired USB cables, but had issues with some across all my vehicles as i spoke of above and some require mods to switch modes.
#5
11-05-2018, 10:22 AM
Re: Brake Issues help
Here's my experience finally getting to the bottom of the ABS problem: After 7 months, 4 tows, 5 mechanics, 2 dealerships (two bad HCU diagnosis), 1 ABS harness line and 1 ground cleaning...it was the brake hoses collapsing. I also had the brake fluid flushed to get any sediment out of the system from the brake/rotor install earlier in the year. A retail tire chain found it in less than 15 minutes. Dealerships here said that if those codes are present, Ford says to replace the HCU 1st! Will NOT even consider venturing into anything else. It's a win-win for Ford, they know this was a bad design, too expensive to recall and I believe they want these cars off the road due to liability. If they can get you in and diagnosis your car with a bad HCU 1) They are off the hook if it's not fixed and in most cases the owner takes the car off the road. 2) VIN specific and $5900 to replace HCU. 3) The part is worth more than the car, causing most people to scrap the car and possibly buy a new Ford (Not me). Big KUDOS to the dealerships who allow critical thinking and let their mechanics be mechanics. In the Louisville area, they are ARROGANT scanner readers and liars. I asked both dealerships to check the tone rings and brake lines, which both "said" they did however, it took a brake/tire store to find the front brake lines were collapsing causing the 1478/1480/2023 codes. It's been one month and no more ABS problems. I will never buy another Ford!
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tommyball
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