I know there are a few a/c threads here, and based on most of them I'm not sure if I have an actual issue so I thought I'd start this just to get an idea of what others are experiencing.

I have a 2008 FEH AWD with 95K here in College Station, TX (been here 2 years, MD before that). Within the last 2 years I have replaced the tires (General Grabber), replaced the MECS, and replaced the battery blend door actuator (no wrench light since then). At one point I had the dash blend door replaced under the TSB. All fans run (rear battery, engine radiator, dash blower).

So with that, when it is above 95ºF, the a/c is not great. My method for a quick cool-down is to open the windows and run the A/C at 60º on max fan speed for a few minutes to get the hot air out, then after closing the windows, lower the fan speed to med-high and turn on recirc. I leave Econ off.

I have a indoor/outdoor thermometer from Radio Shack and brought it on a drive and put the outdoor probe a few inches into the center dash vent to monitor the temp differential. After 5 minutes or so of 2000+rpm driving I'll see the vent temps go to about 85º (10º and lower below the outdoor temperature). If I get on the highway, in 5-10 miles I'll see the vent temps drop to about 65º (30-35º below the outdoor temperature). 30-40º is what I understand is expected temp differential output.

I spoke to a service advisor at the local dealership once and he gave me the 'how long have you lived in Texas' question and a chuckle, then gave me some tips (leaving the windows open for a bit, keeping it at 60º, etc.). I got the impression that A/C issues here were not just something you had someone take a quick look at there. There is a specific A/C tech you need to schedule around, it's potentially very expensive, hard to diagnose/replicate, etc..

My guess is that I never get the engine moving and warmed up enough for it to really work. On a typical drive around town, with stop and go for 2-3 miles it's just doesn't cool the car enough.

I have the 100K service coming up by the end of the year. Beyond checking the freon levels, I'm wondering if there's much more to look at if it technically does work once I've driven for a while.

So how are all the other Southerners surviving?

 

Their is nothing (short of a commercial drive in freezer) that will cool down a heat soaked vehicle in a 2 or 3 mile trip in town. I have seen temps inside a car reach 140+ degrees and with that much heat in the mass of the entire car, it takes a while to cool off. Yours sounds like it is working like it should.

 

I highly recommend a good window tint as well as AirBlue clear tint on the windshield in that kind of heat. I just began having AirBlue put on my windshield, and it will be part of my tint jobs in the future. Heat soak is reduced a good 15F in 92F OAT in the car. In addition, you put a lighter load on the A/C while driving.

Gary

 

Basically I have the same problem. If you get it repaired, let us know what the problem was.

My thoughts.......the compressor is not pumping well. I am thinking a leaking valve. As you drive down the highway and get more air flowing over the condenser and engine RPM's up, it is able to work better.

Haven't worked much on 134a systems but I remember hearing that they are slower than R12 and don't work as well in traffic where there is not much air flowing over the condenser. I do remember on the R12 systems that the air temp from the vents could be close to 40 degrees. Problem is the days of R12 are gone.

I know that I have a problem when the battery calls for cooling. If the front air cond is not on, it will cycle on the high pressure switch. Had local dealer work on it a couple of years ago and they replaced solenoid, didn't solve problem. It will cool battery as long as front AC is on according to scanguage. So I just keep the front AC on as a work around. It also seems that it doesn't cool as well when the battery calls for cooling.

Kind of a long and rambling post, but I can't quite figure what to do next.

 

I recently converted an old GM product from R12 to R134A. The suggestion is normally to replace the condenser to work near to/or as good as R12. I didn't and my vent temperature has been as low as 33F before it cycles OFF to prevent evaporator freeze. It just depends.

 

FYI. The windshield tint is illegal in Florida if it extends below the AS/1 line regardless of light transmission. See 2(b):

Relevant portion:

FS316.2952 Windshields; requirements; restrictions.—

(1) A windshield in a fixed and upright position, which windshield is equipped with safety glazing as required by federal safety-glazing material standards, is required on every motor vehicle which is operated on the public highways, roads, and streets, except on a motorcycle or implement of husbandry.
(2) A person shall not operate any motor vehicle on any public highway, road, or street with any sign, sunscreening material, product, or covering attached to, or located in or upon, the windshield, except the followinga) A certificate or other paper required to be displayed by law.
(b) Sunscreening material along a strip at the top of the windshield, so long as such material is transparent and does not encroach upon the driver’s direct forward viewing area as more particularly described and defined in Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards No. 205 as the AS/1 portion of the windshield.

 

I don't think it is the intent of the law to ban new technology with a clear film that not only protects from the heat, but provides additional safety protection in accidents. I know the police have gauges to measure tint block, but there is no way this clear film would fail that test. In addition, unless you told someone there is a film on the windshield, it cannot be detected if properly installed and maintained. Air-Blue has a lifetime warranty and Tint King will replace it at no cost if there is any distortions.

There are stupid cops here in Florida, but I don't think one of them would show up in court to fight with my attorney or the manufacture on this silly of an issue. Tint King also provides tinting for the PBSO, and they don't like doing illegal tint jobs. I bet many cop cars have Air-Blue on their windshields.

Gary

 

Wonder if this air-blue tint is available in Canada and its legality. I've been nailed for tinted passenger and driver side doors in the past on my old Jetta. The actual glass was tinted, wasn't a film but the cop didn't care, $300 ticket.

 

I don't disagree that Florida's law is behind the current technology, but that does not serve as a defense. The statute I quoted does list any light transmission limits as there are none, the film simply can't extend into the AS/1 area of the windshield.

Since the current US Supreme Court has now legalized pretextual stops, I've been involved in two window tint stop cases that have turned REALLY ugly.


Your chances of being caught are not great, but it is illegal.

 

I agree, but it would be interesting to see if anyone has been cited for the clear Air-Blue on the windshield. My wife has worked for criminal attorney's for 38 years, and she has saw her share of citations. In most cases, the film is removed and a small fine is given if any here in PBC. A shop that puts illegal tint on just any car, should be taken to Court.

The other windows are legal on my cars, and I've never been stopped or checked. I plan to put Air-Blue on my Son's '15 Energi when it gets here in about a month, that's how much I love the heat and glare blockage. With the Air-Blue and the tint strip at the top, it makes driving directly into the sun much safer, even without the visor down.

One big problem with cops, is they can't see the driver when the tint is to dark on the front windows. My friend just got stopped for being in the HOV lane. He had two small kids in the back seats that the cop could not see. The cop checked his tinting and let him go.

Gary