First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
#11
12-22-2010, 12:13 AM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
Today I took ownership of a 2009 Ford Escape Hybrid. It is black with the grill also painted black. No nav... I do plan to get a ScanGauge II in the future. I reset the trips and avg mpg in the message center. Currently reading 33mpg with combined town/hwy driving and decent accent (by all means not flat here in PA)! Overall I am very happy with the fuel economy and the outside temp. this evening was 35F-32F. I thank you for all of your influence. Now to learn all I can about driving this hybrid. Already read the instruction manual and intro guide! Any tips for a newby greatly appreciated.
#13
12-22-2010, 04:44 AM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
Smart move Luke, here are a few tips:
'09 FEH MPG Techiques
FEH Set-Up: Part 1
Tire Pressure - Just one tire with lower pressure can effect a neutral glide, decrease MPG during a pulse (acceleration) and put the entire car off balance for handling and ride. I recommend max side wall pressure but I keep 6 psi over in my tires. My "N" glides go on it seems for ever and I can feel and see if I have a 5 psi drop in pressure in just one tire.
Oil Level - There have been problems draining all the oil if not on level ground during a oil change. Adding the require quarts can therefore overfill the oil level and decrease MPG and even damage the engine. I've had this happen and it's noted in my mileage log as well as a decrease in tank MPG during that time before I corrected the oil level. Other posters have reported this problem after seeing smoke coming from their tailpipe.
Parking - Park Face-Out whenever possible. In most cases your in EV during parking but the engine is always running after start-up to move again. This is the time your engine will drink the most gas getting over the warm-up program strategy. Plan to park leaving enough Charge (SoC) to get through the warm-up strategy and still have enough SoC (42%) to go EV after a Pulse and a neutral glide afterward.
Prepare Before Start-up - Be aware when you turn the key from the Off position you are using battery energy at an alarming rate. Sitting still with the key ON allows the electronics coolant pump, power steering pump, fuel pump etc. to just sit there and burn energy. The gas engine must run to replace this energy which reduces MPG. When I turn the key ON, I start the engine, put it in gear and get moving in a split second. This will not hurt the engine because the traction motor provides power while the engine oil pump circulates oil and the engine gets warmed-up at an idle.
Warm-Up P&G - Part 2
Background: The FEH was programmed to reduce emissions by getting the Cat. Converter to operating temperature as quick as possible. Ford does this by using the battery and electric motors for power during their patented Warm-Up Program Strategy. The FEH is basically in EV when you first start the engine because your power is coming from the electric motors. The engine remains at a idle with the timing retarded to get the Cat hot the quickest. The FEH stays in this strategy until you demand more power, the battery SoC falls to 32% or the Cat Converter is hot enough to start lowering emissions.
Knowing this, you can aid the warm-up strategy as well as "Time" the battery SoC (above 42%) to go EV as soon as possible. First, don't demand more power from the electric motors than they can provide. This will cause the warm-up strategy to break and engine power will return while it's still cold. A cold engine will drink much more gas under a load than a warm engine.
The Warm-Up P&G begins as soon as you start the engine. Make sure traffic is clear before you start the engine and get moving steady under electric motor power with the engine at an idle. This is when battery SoC management begins for me so I start preparing the "TIMING" for my first EV glide from the first pulse with the electric motors while the engine is still at an idle. The only way to stop the fast battery drain and begin charging while in the warm-up strategy is to glide in "D". This is warm-up P&G for the FEH. Do not glide in neutral with the engine running because this stops all regen and generator charging.
Example, in my case the speed limit along my warm-up road is 35mph, so I pulse up to 40mph in general (depending on traffic) and glide down in "D" to 30mph with the engine still warming-up. Remember, I stop discharging the battery in the warm-up strategy as soon as I begin gliding with the engine running in "D". Timing my P&G so I have enough SoC to go EV when the engine is warm enough is my goal. I don't want to be waiting for the SoC to get to 42% when the engine is ready to go EV at any point. Warm-up P&G ends when you can go EV without the engine running and glide in neutral. Here is the video we made on warm-up P&G:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e54vGfAWiVc
In cold weather where the battery is too cold for EV but the engine is ready, I modify my glide using the brake pedal. The only way to heat the battery is by increasing the rate of charging. I find pulsing and gliding in "D" with a small amount of brake pedal pressure speeds up warming the battery to go EV.
Understanding P&G - Part 3
Battery Management
First, you must be able to monitor the battery SoC (state of charge) in a detailed manner and I find the SGII (Scangauge II) is ideal when programmed with a SoC X-Gauge. If I choose the most important gauge to monitor for me, it would be my SGII SoC. This tells me when it's time to start the engine and manage battery SoC. It tells me when to burn Off SoC in EV and at what SoC to start and end my neutral glide.
1. The engine will restart from EV at 40% SoC.
2. You can go EV after 42% SoC.
3. Battery range is normally 40 - 60%.
4. The motor/generator (MG1) will only charge to a maximum ~52% unless it's going through a battery re-Cal.
5. The Traction motor/generator (MG2) provides regenerative charging to a maximum of 60% SoC.
Important: The battery charges faster at the lowest SoC range and slows as the SoC increases. This means the load of the engine from MG1 when the SoC is low, is heavier and gets lighter as the SoC rises. So at ~40% SoC, you only may be getting ~20mpg at 30mph, at 45% SoC you may be getting 30mpg at 30mph and at ~50% SoC you may be getting ~38mpg at 30mph. Using these examples you get a better understanding of engine load, charging rate and Instant MPG you get at what battery level or SoC your at.
During P&G, Instant MPG and Charging Rate go hand in hand and the time it takes to Pulse (accelerate) to a target speed are the important factors. The glide and EV is the easy part to figure out. Looking at Charging Rate, you have that Charge/Assist OEM gauge to monitor for those big swings of the needle in the Charge area. In order to get those big swings, you have two factors to consider which is engine load and SoC level. We discussed that a lower SoC will allow a faster charge with MG1, so if I want a faster charge and bigger swing of the charge needle, I need to keep my battery SoC lower most of the time during P&G. I try to keep my SoC between 44% on the low side and 45-46% SoC on the high side for the best P&G possible. At this level of SoC, I get the fastest Charging Rate without dropping the SoC to a point below 42% where I can't go EV. I want the control to go EV when I want and not let the battery SoC control when the engine runs or not. This way I always have a reserve to stay in EV for a long and unexpected stop and I always have enough SoC to go a little further for a planned stop ahead in EV. This strategy has eliminated times I'm stopped in EV and the engine restarts because I dropped to a 40% SoC level. Once you get a restart at 40% SoC, you have no control of EV till your engine and MGI builds the SoC to at least 42% SoC. This drops your MPG average you worked hard for.
The Most Efficient P&G Speed
You can Pulse and Glide at any speed but I find an acceptable way to get across town in a reasonable amount of time is not to drop your speed below 22mph and avoid going over 33mph. There is no way to do this in most traffic conditions continually without being a traffic hazard so you need to adjust your P&G higher when needed to allow traffic behind you respect of road use. I avoid going over 33mph as much as possible but most of my speed is between 35 - 40mph and higher depending on traffic conditions and speed limits. You should not choose your routes to travel longer distances to your destination unless that route has a time benefit. A time benefit could be fewer stops, less traffic and more lanes to pass or be passed by other vehicles during P&G. Also, I keep my radio On a station that gives traffic reports on accidents and road blockages so I can alter a route when needed. Many of the routes I choose have all of the benefits above and are scenic along the ocean or protected nature areas where speed limits are slower and monitored by the police more. Most people who choose these routes expect slower traffic and drive the speed limit or even slower most of the time because of people on bikes and people crossing the street.
After the warm-up strategy your ready to begin recovery of the MPG average losses and get back to the MPG average you had before the start of the day. If weather conditions are better than the day before, you may end this day with even a better MPG average than you started with. I begin after a pulse where my SoC is somewhere between 45-46%. My speed is at 33mph or above depending on traffic behind me and glide down in EV in "N" to an EV speed I want to maintain while I burn the SoC down to 44%. At this point, if I have no traffic behind me I'll continue to glide down to as low as 22mph. Now I'm ready with a SoC at around 43.8% that has continued to drop because of the long EV glide in "N", to do P&G repeatedly with the correct pulse. The pulse should be done by a blip to start the engine and then watching the OEM Charge needle making sure to accelerate with the needle at its peak swing into the charge area. As you begin the pulse, the needle will swing slightly into the Assist area but get use to having it return into the charge area quickly and adjust acceleration to get that needle as far as possible into the Charge area. Also watch your SGII Instant MPG and try to maintain it around 12mpg not going below 10mpg or above 17mpg. After you have repeated enough continuous P&G that your SoC has built back up to 45% - 46%, it's time to burn off the SoC in EV as we did in the beginning above. The EV segment drain of the SoC from 45-46% down to 44% in this P&G technique is like a step in the stairs to a higher MPG average. That step is also needed to maintain battery management at a lower SoC for faster Charging with MG1.
GaryG
'09 FEH MPG Techiques FEH Set-Up: Part 1
Tire Pressure - Just one tire with lower pressure can effect a neutral glide, decrease MPG during a pulse (acceleration) and put the entire car off balance for handling and ride. I recommend max side wall pressure but I keep 6 psi over in my tires. My "N" glides go on it seems for ever and I can feel and see if I have a 5 psi drop in pressure in just one tire.
Oil Level - There have been problems draining all the oil if not on level ground during a oil change. Adding the require quarts can therefore overfill the oil level and decrease MPG and even damage the engine. I've had this happen and it's noted in my mileage log as well as a decrease in tank MPG during that time before I corrected the oil level. Other posters have reported this problem after seeing smoke coming from their tailpipe.
Parking - Park Face-Out whenever possible. In most cases your in EV during parking but the engine is always running after start-up to move again. This is the time your engine will drink the most gas getting over the warm-up program strategy. Plan to park leaving enough Charge (SoC) to get through the warm-up strategy and still have enough SoC (42%) to go EV after a Pulse and a neutral glide afterward.
Prepare Before Start-up - Be aware when you turn the key from the Off position you are using battery energy at an alarming rate. Sitting still with the key ON allows the electronics coolant pump, power steering pump, fuel pump etc. to just sit there and burn energy. The gas engine must run to replace this energy which reduces MPG. When I turn the key ON, I start the engine, put it in gear and get moving in a split second. This will not hurt the engine because the traction motor provides power while the engine oil pump circulates oil and the engine gets warmed-up at an idle.
Warm-Up P&G - Part 2
Background: The FEH was programmed to reduce emissions by getting the Cat. Converter to operating temperature as quick as possible. Ford does this by using the battery and electric motors for power during their patented Warm-Up Program Strategy. The FEH is basically in EV when you first start the engine because your power is coming from the electric motors. The engine remains at a idle with the timing retarded to get the Cat hot the quickest. The FEH stays in this strategy until you demand more power, the battery SoC falls to 32% or the Cat Converter is hot enough to start lowering emissions.
Knowing this, you can aid the warm-up strategy as well as "Time" the battery SoC (above 42%) to go EV as soon as possible. First, don't demand more power from the electric motors than they can provide. This will cause the warm-up strategy to break and engine power will return while it's still cold. A cold engine will drink much more gas under a load than a warm engine.
The Warm-Up P&G begins as soon as you start the engine. Make sure traffic is clear before you start the engine and get moving steady under electric motor power with the engine at an idle. This is when battery SoC management begins for me so I start preparing the "TIMING" for my first EV glide from the first pulse with the electric motors while the engine is still at an idle. The only way to stop the fast battery drain and begin charging while in the warm-up strategy is to glide in "D". This is warm-up P&G for the FEH. Do not glide in neutral with the engine running because this stops all regen and generator charging.
Example, in my case the speed limit along my warm-up road is 35mph, so I pulse up to 40mph in general (depending on traffic) and glide down in "D" to 30mph with the engine still warming-up. Remember, I stop discharging the battery in the warm-up strategy as soon as I begin gliding with the engine running in "D". Timing my P&G so I have enough SoC to go EV when the engine is warm enough is my goal. I don't want to be waiting for the SoC to get to 42% when the engine is ready to go EV at any point. Warm-up P&G ends when you can go EV without the engine running and glide in neutral. Here is the video we made on warm-up P&G:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e54vGfAWiVc
In cold weather where the battery is too cold for EV but the engine is ready, I modify my glide using the brake pedal. The only way to heat the battery is by increasing the rate of charging. I find pulsing and gliding in "D" with a small amount of brake pedal pressure speeds up warming the battery to go EV.
Understanding P&G - Part 3
Battery Management
First, you must be able to monitor the battery SoC (state of charge) in a detailed manner and I find the SGII (Scangauge II) is ideal when programmed with a SoC X-Gauge. If I choose the most important gauge to monitor for me, it would be my SGII SoC. This tells me when it's time to start the engine and manage battery SoC. It tells me when to burn Off SoC in EV and at what SoC to start and end my neutral glide.
1. The engine will restart from EV at 40% SoC.
2. You can go EV after 42% SoC.
3. Battery range is normally 40 - 60%.
4. The motor/generator (MG1) will only charge to a maximum ~52% unless it's going through a battery re-Cal.
5. The Traction motor/generator (MG2) provides regenerative charging to a maximum of 60% SoC.
Important: The battery charges faster at the lowest SoC range and slows as the SoC increases. This means the load of the engine from MG1 when the SoC is low, is heavier and gets lighter as the SoC rises. So at ~40% SoC, you only may be getting ~20mpg at 30mph, at 45% SoC you may be getting 30mpg at 30mph and at ~50% SoC you may be getting ~38mpg at 30mph. Using these examples you get a better understanding of engine load, charging rate and Instant MPG you get at what battery level or SoC your at.
During P&G, Instant MPG and Charging Rate go hand in hand and the time it takes to Pulse (accelerate) to a target speed are the important factors. The glide and EV is the easy part to figure out. Looking at Charging Rate, you have that Charge/Assist OEM gauge to monitor for those big swings of the needle in the Charge area. In order to get those big swings, you have two factors to consider which is engine load and SoC level. We discussed that a lower SoC will allow a faster charge with MG1, so if I want a faster charge and bigger swing of the charge needle, I need to keep my battery SoC lower most of the time during P&G. I try to keep my SoC between 44% on the low side and 45-46% SoC on the high side for the best P&G possible. At this level of SoC, I get the fastest Charging Rate without dropping the SoC to a point below 42% where I can't go EV. I want the control to go EV when I want and not let the battery SoC control when the engine runs or not. This way I always have a reserve to stay in EV for a long and unexpected stop and I always have enough SoC to go a little further for a planned stop ahead in EV. This strategy has eliminated times I'm stopped in EV and the engine restarts because I dropped to a 40% SoC level. Once you get a restart at 40% SoC, you have no control of EV till your engine and MGI builds the SoC to at least 42% SoC. This drops your MPG average you worked hard for.
The Most Efficient P&G Speed
You can Pulse and Glide at any speed but I find an acceptable way to get across town in a reasonable amount of time is not to drop your speed below 22mph and avoid going over 33mph. There is no way to do this in most traffic conditions continually without being a traffic hazard so you need to adjust your P&G higher when needed to allow traffic behind you respect of road use. I avoid going over 33mph as much as possible but most of my speed is between 35 - 40mph and higher depending on traffic conditions and speed limits. You should not choose your routes to travel longer distances to your destination unless that route has a time benefit. A time benefit could be fewer stops, less traffic and more lanes to pass or be passed by other vehicles during P&G. Also, I keep my radio On a station that gives traffic reports on accidents and road blockages so I can alter a route when needed. Many of the routes I choose have all of the benefits above and are scenic along the ocean or protected nature areas where speed limits are slower and monitored by the police more. Most people who choose these routes expect slower traffic and drive the speed limit or even slower most of the time because of people on bikes and people crossing the street.
After the warm-up strategy your ready to begin recovery of the MPG average losses and get back to the MPG average you had before the start of the day. If weather conditions are better than the day before, you may end this day with even a better MPG average than you started with. I begin after a pulse where my SoC is somewhere between 45-46%. My speed is at 33mph or above depending on traffic behind me and glide down in EV in "N" to an EV speed I want to maintain while I burn the SoC down to 44%. At this point, if I have no traffic behind me I'll continue to glide down to as low as 22mph. Now I'm ready with a SoC at around 43.8% that has continued to drop because of the long EV glide in "N", to do P&G repeatedly with the correct pulse. The pulse should be done by a blip to start the engine and then watching the OEM Charge needle making sure to accelerate with the needle at its peak swing into the charge area. As you begin the pulse, the needle will swing slightly into the Assist area but get use to having it return into the charge area quickly and adjust acceleration to get that needle as far as possible into the Charge area. Also watch your SGII Instant MPG and try to maintain it around 12mpg not going below 10mpg or above 17mpg. After you have repeated enough continuous P&G that your SoC has built back up to 45% - 46%, it's time to burn off the SoC in EV as we did in the beginning above. The EV segment drain of the SoC from 45-46% down to 44% in this P&G technique is like a step in the stairs to a higher MPG average. That step is also needed to maintain battery management at a lower SoC for faster Charging with MG1.
GaryG
#14
12-23-2010, 10:59 PM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
Rick, I like the visual gauges of the DashDaq. However, it is pricy.
After another day of driving the FEH and reading about driving practices for > FE it appears a scanguage is a definite. Will be ordering one after the holiday. For now I am practicing all the tips provided and scattered about. I’ll tell you it takes a bit of time to grasp how the hybrid really works and to figure out what is being talked about with P&G, SoC, fuel-cuts etc.
I always park facing out. However, starting tomorrow I will modify my parking procedure at home by getting some regen vs. N glides down the small descents of street in my neighborhood from the flats. Today I focused on accelerating at 1800rpm and ascending hills at 2400rpm. Checking tire pressure is next on my list for tomorrow as well as locating and checking fluids. The sync vehicle report was clean for what it is worth. Great info with the P&G w/ break pedal for warm up. However, for normal P&G I just picked up today from further reading of yours that it is key to accelerate (12mpg-17mpg) at a rate that results in the biggest swing/pulse/charge! I’ve been too focused on babying the throttle. Again the scanguage will be key.
Question – is the SoC allowed to drop to an exceedingly low value of 32% due to the warm-up strategy before that is broken? I thought 40% tipped the engine to want to recharge the battery as you normally advise.
I’ll continue to work on some basics, warm up, parking procedure, and the standard P&G. Also, since it is winter I’m going to attempt to see about finding a pure 87 octane source, not sure if it exists, we’ll see.
Thanks for all the help so far. I like this new little hobby and doing well for the environment.
After another day of driving the FEH and reading about driving practices for > FE it appears a scanguage is a definite. Will be ordering one after the holiday. For now I am practicing all the tips provided and scattered about. I’ll tell you it takes a bit of time to grasp how the hybrid really works and to figure out what is being talked about with P&G, SoC, fuel-cuts etc.
I always park facing out. However, starting tomorrow I will modify my parking procedure at home by getting some regen vs. N glides down the small descents of street in my neighborhood from the flats. Today I focused on accelerating at 1800rpm and ascending hills at 2400rpm. Checking tire pressure is next on my list for tomorrow as well as locating and checking fluids. The sync vehicle report was clean for what it is worth. Great info with the P&G w/ break pedal for warm up. However, for normal P&G I just picked up today from further reading of yours that it is key to accelerate (12mpg-17mpg) at a rate that results in the biggest swing/pulse/charge! I’ve been too focused on babying the throttle. Again the scanguage will be key.
Question – is the SoC allowed to drop to an exceedingly low value of 32% due to the warm-up strategy before that is broken? I thought 40% tipped the engine to want to recharge the battery as you normally advise.
I’ll continue to work on some basics, warm up, parking procedure, and the standard P&G. Also, since it is winter I’m going to attempt to see about finding a pure 87 octane source, not sure if it exists, we’ll see.
Thanks for all the help so far. I like this new little hobby and doing well for the environment.
#15
12-24-2010, 05:55 AM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
#16
12-24-2010, 08:21 AM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
The warm-up strategy can drop the SoC as low as 32% but remember the engine is always running during the warm-up strategy so there is no restart at 40%. The generator (MG1) does not charge the battery during warm-up but may assist the Traction Motor (MG2) to provide torque to the wheels.
Take my tips one at a time till they become habit. I didn't learn all this at one time, so don't expect to learn this stuff in a few weeks.
You can join http://www.cleanmpg.com/ and get a good price on a SGII when you're ready. Our friend Wayne Gerdes owns the site and can be trusted. You really need a SGII for most of the tips like knowing when your in complete fuel-cut. In fuel-cut the SGII Instant MPG will be at 9,999mpg and read Open Loop on the Open/Closed Loop gauge.
Try this site for PA ethanol free stations http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=PA and give them a call to see if they still have 87 octane without ethanol. Don't use a higher octane because it has less BTU and the results is just as bad as ethanol in the FEH.
Try accelerating at 2,000 RPM and monitor Charge/Assist till you get a SGII. That's about right for my Pulse in my '09 FEH. Too slow of a pulse can hurt just as much as to fast of a Pulse. Only use N Glide in EV in the '09.
Keep us up with how your doing!
GaryG
Take my tips one at a time till they become habit. I didn't learn all this at one time, so don't expect to learn this stuff in a few weeks.
You can join http://www.cleanmpg.com/ and get a good price on a SGII when you're ready. Our friend Wayne Gerdes owns the site and can be trusted. You really need a SGII for most of the tips like knowing when your in complete fuel-cut. In fuel-cut the SGII Instant MPG will be at 9,999mpg and read Open Loop on the Open/Closed Loop gauge.
Try this site for PA ethanol free stations http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=PA and give them a call to see if they still have 87 octane without ethanol. Don't use a higher octane because it has less BTU and the results is just as bad as ethanol in the FEH.
Try accelerating at 2,000 RPM and monitor Charge/Assist till you get a SGII. That's about right for my Pulse in my '09 FEH. Too slow of a pulse can hurt just as much as to fast of a Pulse. Only use N Glide in EV in the '09.
Keep us up with how your doing!
GaryG
#17
12-24-2010, 05:37 PM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
Sorry, this statement is not totally correct "The generator (MG1) does not charge the battery during warm-up but may assist the Traction Motor (MG2) to provide torque to the wheels."
Under acceleration it is true but MGI will charge the battery during the warm-up strategy if you do not apply acceleration. I do it all the time but forgot to add it to my techniques list.
GaryG
Under acceleration it is true but MGI will charge the battery during the warm-up strategy if you do not apply acceleration. I do it all the time but forgot to add it to my techniques list.
GaryG
#18
12-25-2010, 10:53 PM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
Yes, it is, but it's a bigger display and much easier to read while driving, w/o risking an accident IMO.
Also, I'm noticing I easily get fuel cut and EV mode with HV battery temps of 40 deg or higher, but it's difficult to get much with lower than that. The temp in the lower left of my DashDaq is HV battery temp, SOC is the big gauge on the left, EV motor current is on the right and coolant temp on the lower right. If the current exceeds 50 amps, the ICE will kick in. I use the mpg gauge to restrict acceleration to about 15 mpg when possible. It's much easier to manage EV mode with a DD than a SG for inexperienced drivers IMO.
When I first got my DD I only had a couple of standard devices detected and nothing of interest specific to a Ford hybrid. I obtained the device scans for them and was the only FEH user at the time.
I don't frequent the DD forums daily like I used to, but there has been some pressure from Ford users to get an update. I bet they've lost some sales when the market dropped in the last couple years and don't have the development dollars they previously had.
Also, I'm noticing I easily get fuel cut and EV mode with HV battery temps of 40 deg or higher, but it's difficult to get much with lower than that. The temp in the lower left of my DashDaq is HV battery temp, SOC is the big gauge on the left, EV motor current is on the right and coolant temp on the lower right. If the current exceeds 50 amps, the ICE will kick in. I use the mpg gauge to restrict acceleration to about 15 mpg when possible. It's much easier to manage EV mode with a DD than a SG for inexperienced drivers IMO.
I don't frequent the DD forums daily like I used to, but there has been some pressure from Ford users to get an update. I bet they've lost some sales when the market dropped in the last couple years and don't have the development dollars they previously had.
#20
01-02-2011, 10:11 PM
Re: First Hybrid FEH '05 or '09
Great information as always. I thank all of your comments greatly. I couldn't imagine owning a FEH without communities like this to support the hybrid culture. I am having a lot of fun and learning a lot. The past few days have included warmer temperatures in the 40's and 50's. Obviously making it a little easier to feel the real limits of EV. I was very pleased to see the ability to go EV very frequently right under 40MPH and to be able to hold EV at 37,8,9MPH!
I was disappointed the dash cluster tach display showed AVG 33MPG the first ride home from the dealer but after a week dropped to AVG 25.5MPG. With 25-30 degree weather and a little snow thrown in there combined with short trips the drop can be explained. After 2 longer trips and warmer weather the display shows AVG 29.3MPG. I suppose this is kind of a tank avg? The Ford manual is unclear...
This question is directed to GaryG: What is your theory behind filling the tank w/ 13.6 gallons of fuel? Please explain the math process to calculate MPG. I've always drove in the past until slightly before E or waited until the fuel warning light turned on. Then filling the tank gives you the gallons used for MPG calculation. My first fuel up is coming up on the FEH. Tank to empty says 43 miles.
Planning to order a scangauge II from cleanmpg.com soon. Considering X-Gauges. For a while I only have one (1) unit meaning 4 gauges.
- SoC (a given)
- Instant MPG (a given)
- EV amp drawl??
- LOD maybe? I forget what this one does and if the code is actually accurate.
Basically I know the first two but the second two I'm unsure of because of the many options. Please advise.
I was disappointed the dash cluster tach display showed AVG 33MPG the first ride home from the dealer but after a week dropped to AVG 25.5MPG. With 25-30 degree weather and a little snow thrown in there combined with short trips the drop can be explained. After 2 longer trips and warmer weather the display shows AVG 29.3MPG. I suppose this is kind of a tank avg? The Ford manual is unclear...
This question is directed to GaryG: What is your theory behind filling the tank w/ 13.6 gallons of fuel? Please explain the math process to calculate MPG. I've always drove in the past until slightly before E or waited until the fuel warning light turned on. Then filling the tank gives you the gallons used for MPG calculation. My first fuel up is coming up on the FEH. Tank to empty says 43 miles.
Planning to order a scangauge II from cleanmpg.com soon. Considering X-Gauges. For a while I only have one (1) unit meaning 4 gauges.
- SoC (a given)
- Instant MPG (a given)
- EV amp drawl??
- LOD maybe? I forget what this one does and if the code is actually accurate.
Basically I know the first two but the second two I'm unsure of because of the many options. Please advise.
