From the '09 FE/FEH WorkShop Manual.

The parking brake system consists of the following components:

• Parking brake control
• Parking brake warning indicator switch
• Front parking brake cable
• Parking brake cable equalizer
• Rear parking brake cables
• Rear drum brake components

The parking brake system is actuated when the parking brake control is depressed. The parking brake control applies tension to the front parking brake cable and conduit. The parking brake cable equalizer is coupled to the LH parking brake rear cable and conduit, and connected directly to the RH parking brake rear cable and conduit. The respective rear brake assemblies are then applied.

Like "gpsman1" says, it means that your rear brakes are getting wet and grabbing which is just like what I said. It just makes logical sense!

 

Doug121041,

Did your service person mention what caused the rotors to rust? Perhaps something about the slide pins locking up and needing to be lubricated?

 

A locked up slide pin would only allow one side of the rotor to rust, remain rusted.

Plus a locked up slide pin is a fairly rare event let alone one on each floating caliper.

 

What you said is all very true. But, a locked slide pin would explain why one pad wore down so quickly and why one rotor would be so rusted it would need to be replaced. Service centers will replace rotors in pairs (front pair and rear pair) to keep the widths of the rotors the same and to keep the left and right brake characteristics the same. I would suspect the rear rotors and brakes were fine and the rotors were turned and the pads replaced as a precaution.

Some service centers will often over do repairs to make sure customers don't have to bring vehicles in for a second time for the same issue. Had the front rotors and pads been replaced and the issues that caused the owner to bring in the vehicle in the first place persisted, the owner would most likely be upset because they paid for a service that, in their eyes, didn't fix the problem and second, the fact that they had to schedule another apt. and bring the vehicle in again for the same problem.

Additionally, it may have cost $400 to replace the front rotors at and pads at the first apt. and another $400 to turn the rear rotors and replace the pads (price including parts and labor) at the second apt. OR it would cost $600 to do the work on both the front and rear rotors and be 100% confident that the issue was taken care of.

Just trying to offer a different perspective.

 

I had an interesting conversation with my mechanic today. Admittedly our conversation had nothing to do with FEHs, but I nonetheless thought our conversation was informative. I was making the observation that some manufacturers use rear disk brakes and some don't. He said that he, of course, prefers to work on disk brakes because they're quicker and easier to replace, but then he noted that particularly with front drive vehicles, rear disk brakes are problematic, in that they often don't experience a lot of wear. He noted that in our climate (midwest) when the brakes aren't used from time to time, the brakes start to rust from the outside edge and inside surface, working their way to the center. He showed me a Subaru he had on the rack and it was obvious. I'd bet 1/3 of the surface was rusted on the outer and inner rotor surface. Of course, the pads wear to conform to the surface. That may explain why Ford went back to rear drum brakes on the Escape. It also may explain why you had the problem on the front rotors, since the regen does a lot of the braking.

 

Sorry, a rusted braking surface, rotor/pad frictional contact area, is an indication that SOMETHING is seriously WRONG.

 

Willard, both my '05 and '09 FEH's get rusted front disc with the way I drive. In fact, the front disc on my '09 needs to be cleaned again by using "N" to apply the brakes. There is nothing wrong with them and I have 72,000 miles on my '05 FEH brakes and they are in great condition still. I use to do all my brake jobs myself, but I'm to lazy to do them now.

GaryG

 

Somehow, some way, we're not communicating.

The braking surface of a rotor will "rust" in as little as 24 hours, but the instant you apply the "brakes"(***) that light coating of rust will be wiped away, no exceptions, that I have ever known about.

Now, rust, lots of it, outside the pad frictional contact area, SOP.

It seems highly improbable to me that anyone could get through the day without the frictional brakes being used in multiple instances, and even one use would wipe away the rust.

 

Me, too! 38,021 miles.

My wife told me her 2009 Mariner hybrid was making a "wierd noise" when she braked. Pulled off the front wheel and the ouyboard brake pad looks like new - inboard pad was down to rivets and ruining the rotor. This was on both front wheels.

Took it in first thing this morning. Ford mechanic says caused by rust, they are replacing the pads and rotors, going through the hybrid procedure. $450. Ticks me off. I mentioned the great difference in wear outboard versus inboard. He says the inboard rotor side will rust much quicker then outboard. By the way, outboard side looks clean as a whistle - no rust. Inboard side of the rotors are pitted and grooved - but I figure the grooves were made by the rivets.

My wife is a lightfoot - so maybe I need to make sure the brakes get used every once in a while. Do the braking in nuetral thing.

 

You're being sold a load of poles.....

Also, the wheel bearings have been under an undue level of stress.