New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop
#21
Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop
Not bad, thanks much. The shop manual looks like it could be done as you did. So good to confirm it.
I'm also kind of thinking through half shaft replacement as I've developed a vibration that feels like a U-joint going bad. I replaced the u-joints last summer and the vibration hasn't changed. Been to the Ford dealer a couple of time for accident repairs and they declared the CV joints OK. Still I'm feeling that vibration...
Any reason you couldn't have heated the new tone ring in the kitchen oven? An old friend, Navy EMCM(SS), told me once that it is better to heat things in an oven, even new bearings, than to use a torch. He used to put bearings on things that way and seemed to have a good track record.
I'm also kind of thinking through half shaft replacement as I've developed a vibration that feels like a U-joint going bad. I replaced the u-joints last summer and the vibration hasn't changed. Been to the Ford dealer a couple of time for accident repairs and they declared the CV joints OK. Still I'm feeling that vibration...
Any reason you couldn't have heated the new tone ring in the kitchen oven? An old friend, Navy EMCM(SS), told me once that it is better to heat things in an oven, even new bearings, than to use a torch. He used to put bearings on things that way and seemed to have a good track record.
Last edited by wptski; 01-02-2011 at 02:18 PM.
#22
Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop
I'm also kind of thinking through half shaft replacement as I've developed a vibration that feels like a U-joint going bad. I replaced the u-joints last summer and the vibration hasn't changed. Been to the Ford dealer a couple of time for accident repairs and they declared the CV joints OK. Still I'm feeling that vibration...
Any reason you couldn't have heated the new tone ring in the kitchen oven? An old friend, Navy EMCM(SS), told me once that it is better to heat things in an oven, even new bearings, than to use a torch. He used to put bearings on things that way and seemed to have a good track record.
#25
Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop
Yea, the tone ring design sucks, but it is not unique to the hybrid.
#27
Re: New Problem - Clunk and ABS lite flash just before stop
I wanted to report in that I finally replaced both the outer tie rods (cracked boots) and an abs tone ring today on my '06 FEH with 60k miles.
It wasn't a terribly difficult repair but it did require a few car specific tools. You'll need a ball joint fork and may tear up the boot on the lower A arm ball joint as well as those on the outer tie rods. To remove the nuts that hold the wheel hub to the drive shaft you'll need a ~31mm socket and a powerful impact wrench. We used a 1-1/4" socket and it seemed to work okay but it was a loose fit on the nut. I didn't have a pair of calipers handy to actually measure the nut but a 30mm socket would not fit.
The old ring came off very easily and we cleaned the rust off the shaft with a wire brush. Installing the new ring was a bit tricky. We ended up using a brass rod and a hammer to "press" it into place. However, if you happened to have a bit of pipe the right size, it would be much easier to knock into place. This part is also much easier if you have a helper to hold the drive shaft for you.
We replaced the right front tone ring, both outer tie rod ends and changed the oil in about 2.5 hours with several breaks to scratch our heads and sip some beer.
It wasn't a terribly difficult repair but it did require a few car specific tools. You'll need a ball joint fork and may tear up the boot on the lower A arm ball joint as well as those on the outer tie rods. To remove the nuts that hold the wheel hub to the drive shaft you'll need a ~31mm socket and a powerful impact wrench. We used a 1-1/4" socket and it seemed to work okay but it was a loose fit on the nut. I didn't have a pair of calipers handy to actually measure the nut but a 30mm socket would not fit.
The old ring came off very easily and we cleaned the rust off the shaft with a wire brush. Installing the new ring was a bit tricky. We ended up using a brass rod and a hammer to "press" it into place. However, if you happened to have a bit of pipe the right size, it would be much easier to knock into place. This part is also much easier if you have a helper to hold the drive shaft for you.
We replaced the right front tone ring, both outer tie rod ends and changed the oil in about 2.5 hours with several breaks to scratch our heads and sip some beer.
Last edited by prototype3a; 07-21-2012 at 11:30 AM.
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