No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
#1
07-07-2010, 09:25 AM
No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
So yesterday wift says it wouldn't start, but turned the key again and it did. She says guess I didn't turn it hard enough (now used to not needing to hold a key until it's running).
So Today it won't start at all! No dummy lights on dash, the fuel & assit gauges move, there's a little bit of clicking when starting, sounds like around the shifter (saftety lockout?) then some fan noise, from engine or rear, couldn't tell, but pretty sure it wasn't the pass AC.
So then I look at scangauge, no codesfound, but the SOC is 0.04 !!! Really!?! So I get a multi meter and the 12V batt is reading 7.7
It's only been sitting for like 18hrs since last drive, I've never seen SOC below 40ish.
Can I just put a batt charger/jumper on the under hood batt to charge it up to 12ish, then jump the HV batt? Or should I just call a dealer to tow it in? I just past the 36mos by 2! only 35k miles. I do have the ESP plan, so should only cost $50.
Thoughts, Ideas!!!??
{Edit} Whew, I think it's just the underhood 12V batt. Stuck a charger on it and it started dinging (door open) radio spang to life, and scangauge now read 53% SOC! The little 'window' on the batt, best I can tell is orange, so that's bad???
Going to get a new batt/test this one and hope it's that simple. Just can't belive a batt is dead in only 3yrs 34k miles, esp one that's not used like a reg batt.
So Today it won't start at all! No dummy lights on dash, the fuel & assit gauges move, there's a little bit of clicking when starting, sounds like around the shifter (saftety lockout?) then some fan noise, from engine or rear, couldn't tell, but pretty sure it wasn't the pass AC.
So then I look at scangauge, no codesfound, but the SOC is 0.04 !!! Really!?! So I get a multi meter and the 12V batt is reading 7.7
It's only been sitting for like 18hrs since last drive, I've never seen SOC below 40ish.
Can I just put a batt charger/jumper on the under hood batt to charge it up to 12ish, then jump the HV batt? Or should I just call a dealer to tow it in? I just past the 36mos by 2! only 35k miles. I do have the ESP plan, so should only cost $50.
Thoughts, Ideas!!!??
{Edit} Whew, I think it's just the underhood 12V batt. Stuck a charger on it and it started dinging (door open) radio spang to life, and scangauge now read 53% SOC! The little 'window' on the batt, best I can tell is orange, so that's bad???
Going to get a new batt/test this one and hope it's that simple. Just can't belive a batt is dead in only 3yrs 34k miles, esp one that's not used like a reg batt.
Last edited by 08hybridok; 07-07-2010 at 09:46 AM.
#2
07-07-2010, 11:23 AM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
My last two Ford Rangers never got much past three years on the OEM battery but that's being used all the time. It's all about maintaining a full charge, anything less, the lead plates start to sulfate and that's what kills the battery.
#3
07-07-2010, 11:26 AM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Sounds like your 12V battery may be dying. My 2005 FEH is still going on the original 12V battery. I was on vacation earlier this year, and the FEH sat for 30 days. The 12V battery still had enough charge to powerup the computers and start.
A few thoughs:
Is there a load on the battery? Common causes are reading lights left on, light switch left turned to "parking lights" instead of off.
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage present after the FEH is started. The voltage should be around 14 to 14.4V. Check the reading at the battery posts, and at the battery clamps. The readings should be identical. If the post voltage is less than the clamp voltage, corrosion or a loose clamp is preventing the battery from charging. Sometimes a thin film of corrosion forms between the battery posts and cable connectors. While the post "looks" ok, this film can prevent the 12V battery from charging. Try cleaning the posts with a post cleaner or some fine sand paper.
The problem could be a low level in one cell. Carefully remove the battery caps and see if the level is below the plates in any cell. If so, add distilled water until the plates are covered. Don't overfill. If you find a cell needs water more than once a year - replace the battery, it is near the end of it's life.
Your battery could have a bad cell. A voltmeter can be used to check for this. Check after returning from a drive and turning off the FEH. Turn on the headlights for about two minutes, then turn them off. Measure the battery voltage. Normal for a charged battery is around 12.4 to 12.6 Volts. If there is a bad cell the reading will be around 10.5 V.
A few thoughs:
Is there a load on the battery? Common causes are reading lights left on, light switch left turned to "parking lights" instead of off.
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage present after the FEH is started. The voltage should be around 14 to 14.4V. Check the reading at the battery posts, and at the battery clamps. The readings should be identical. If the post voltage is less than the clamp voltage, corrosion or a loose clamp is preventing the battery from charging. Sometimes a thin film of corrosion forms between the battery posts and cable connectors. While the post "looks" ok, this film can prevent the 12V battery from charging. Try cleaning the posts with a post cleaner or some fine sand paper.
The problem could be a low level in one cell. Carefully remove the battery caps and see if the level is below the plates in any cell. If so, add distilled water until the plates are covered. Don't overfill. If you find a cell needs water more than once a year - replace the battery, it is near the end of it's life.
Your battery could have a bad cell. A voltmeter can be used to check for this. Check after returning from a drive and turning off the FEH. Turn on the headlights for about two minutes, then turn them off. Measure the battery voltage. Normal for a charged battery is around 12.4 to 12.6 Volts. If there is a bad cell the reading will be around 10.5 V.
Last edited by nash; 07-07-2010 at 11:42 AM.
#4
07-07-2010, 12:18 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Thanks, I just took it to autozone/oreilleys. One put a tester on it, it says needs a charge. The guy said you can replace it if you want, but I'd just charge it. They didn't have a batt in stock. So went to auto zone, they had a 3yr batt for like $100, just popped that in.
I had a batt charger on it at like 15A charge for 1hr, drove about 10miles before the test was done, I don't have time to waste to see if just chraging it would fix it, and 1/2 my starting/driving is like 2-4am, when I can't call for a ride...
If it were my secondary vehicle I might have just charged it and see what happened.
The voltmeter read 7.7 first thing, after charging for an hour it read 12.7, then 12.6, then 12.5 in about 1-2min. I'll be watching this batt to make sure something not causing a drain. Just got home, new batt was reading like 12.5ish, but steady.
I had a batt charger on it at like 15A charge for 1hr, drove about 10miles before the test was done, I don't have time to waste to see if just chraging it would fix it, and 1/2 my starting/driving is like 2-4am, when I can't call for a ride...
If it were my secondary vehicle I might have just charged it and see what happened.
The voltmeter read 7.7 first thing, after charging for an hour it read 12.7, then 12.6, then 12.5 in about 1-2min. I'll be watching this batt to make sure something not causing a drain. Just got home, new batt was reading like 12.5ish, but steady.
#5
07-07-2010, 04:36 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Sounds like your 12V battery may be dying. My 2005 FEH is still going on the original 12V battery. I was on vacation earlier this year, and the FEH sat for 30 days. The 12V battery still had enough charge to powerup the computers and start.
A few thoughs:
Is there a load on the battery? Common causes are reading lights left on, light switch left turned to "parking lights" instead of off.
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage present after the FEH is started. The voltage should be around 14 to 14.4V. Check the reading at the battery posts, and at the battery clamps. The readings should be identical. If the post voltage is less than the clamp voltage, corrosion or a loose clamp is preventing the battery from charging. Sometimes a thin film of corrosion forms between the battery posts and cable connectors. While the post "looks" ok, this film can prevent the 12V battery from charging. Try cleaning the posts with a post cleaner or some fine sand paper.
The problem could be a low level in one cell. Carefully remove the battery caps and see if the level is below the plates in any cell. If so, add distilled water until the plates are covered. Don't overfill. If you find a cell needs water more than once a year - replace the battery, it is near the end of it's life.
Your battery could have a bad cell. A voltmeter can be used to check for this. Check after returning from a drive and turning off the FEH. Turn on the headlights for about two minutes, then turn them off. Measure the battery voltage. Normal for a charged battery is around 12.4 to 12.6 Volts. If there is a bad cell the reading will be around 10.5 V.
A few thoughs:
Is there a load on the battery? Common causes are reading lights left on, light switch left turned to "parking lights" instead of off.
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage present after the FEH is started. The voltage should be around 14 to 14.4V. Check the reading at the battery posts, and at the battery clamps. The readings should be identical. If the post voltage is less than the clamp voltage, corrosion or a loose clamp is preventing the battery from charging. Sometimes a thin film of corrosion forms between the battery posts and cable connectors. While the post "looks" ok, this film can prevent the 12V battery from charging. Try cleaning the posts with a post cleaner or some fine sand paper.
The problem could be a low level in one cell. Carefully remove the battery caps and see if the level is below the plates in any cell. If so, add distilled water until the plates are covered. Don't overfill. If you find a cell needs water more than once a year - replace the battery, it is near the end of it's life.
Your battery could have a bad cell. A voltmeter can be used to check for this. Check after returning from a drive and turning off the FEH. Turn on the headlights for about two minutes, then turn them off. Measure the battery voltage. Normal for a charged battery is around 12.4 to 12.6 Volts. If there is a bad cell the reading will be around 10.5 V.
#6
07-07-2010, 05:03 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
I just filled one at work today. It's attached to a backup 12v sump pump. I don't know if it's a standard or deep discharge variety.
#8
07-07-2010, 06:12 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Bill,
I just noticed from your signature that you have a 3.0 ICE Escape. Are you considering buying an FEH, or do you follow this forum because you are interested for some other reason?
Just curious.
I just noticed from your signature that you have a 3.0 ICE Escape. Are you considering buying an FEH, or do you follow this forum because you are interested for some other reason?
Just curious.
#9
07-07-2010, 08:43 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
No, I purchased my '09 FE on 11/11/08 and just have over 4K on it, so I don't drive enough to warrant one. I orginally came here chasing a post left in another forum about 4WD monitoring with a SG-II. I only post on general topics and stay clear of the hardcore Hybrid topics.
#10
07-08-2010, 01:10 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
No, I purchased my '09 FE on 11/11/08 and just have over 4K on it, so I don't drive enough to warrant one. I orginally came here chasing a post left in another forum about 4WD monitoring with a SG-II. I only post on general topics and stay clear of the hardcore Hybrid topics.
