No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
#11
07-08-2010, 01:36 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Steve, can you post a link for the 4WD xcode? I have never been able to get the 4WD to indicate anything but "0" with the xcode I have. Thanks.
#12
07-08-2010, 03:02 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
txd: 076122D128
rxf: 046285D19628
rxd: 3008
mth: 006400330000
Nam: AWD (or whatever you want to call the xguage)
https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...ge-code-20996/
#13
07-08-2010, 03:37 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Wet or dry pavement, the results are the same!
#14
07-08-2010, 05:04 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Yes, the I4WD kicks in even on dry pavement, although I'm sure that on ice or under certain wet conditions it would engage as well.
Using the rear wheels at all times makes the FEH perform better, but costs MPG. Thus a vehicle like the Honda CRV, for example, has the same MPG for AWD as for FWD - it only uses the rear wheels when needed.
Using the rear wheels at all times makes the FEH perform better, but costs MPG. Thus a vehicle like the Honda CRV, for example, has the same MPG for AWD as for FWD - it only uses the rear wheels when needed.
#15
07-08-2010, 08:56 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Yes, the I4WD kicks in even on dry pavement, although I'm sure that on ice or under certain wet conditions it would engage as well.
Using the rear wheels at all times makes the FEH perform better, but costs MPG. Thus a vehicle like the Honda CRV, for example, has the same MPG for AWD as for FWD - it only uses the rear wheels when needed.
Using the rear wheels at all times makes the FEH perform better, but costs MPG. Thus a vehicle like the Honda CRV, for example, has the same MPG for AWD as for FWD - it only uses the rear wheels when needed.
#17
07-09-2010, 06:56 AM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
No, that's one thing that I thought about later but it only came ON once when I made a turn too fast that I noticed. One doesn't really know how/when the TC/4WD work together. I know that the ABS can take 4WD control as that's in the manual. Since one can't watch a SG-II all the time while driving, it's easy to miss an event.
#18
07-09-2010, 12:52 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
A few thoughs:
Is there a load on the battery? Common causes are reading lights left on, light switch left turned to "parking lights" instead of off.
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage present after the FEH is started. The voltage should be around 14 to 14.4V. Check the reading at the battery posts, and at the battery clamps. The readings should be identical. If the post voltage is less than the clamp voltage, corrosion or a loose clamp is preventing the battery from charging. Sometimes a thin film of corrosion forms between the battery posts and cable connectors. While the post "looks" ok, this film can prevent the 12V battery from charging. Try cleaning the posts with a post cleaner or some fine sand paper.
The problem could be a low level in one cell. Carefully remove the battery caps and see if the level is below the plates in any cell. If so, add distilled water until the plates are covered. Don't overfill. If you find a cell needs water more than once a year - replace the battery, it is near the end of it's life.
Your battery could have a bad cell. A voltmeter can be used to check for this. Check after returning from a drive and turning off the FEH. Turn on the headlights for about two minutes, then turn them off. Measure the battery voltage. Normal for a charged battery is around 12.4 to 12.6 Volts. If there is a bad cell the reading will be around 10.5 V.
Is there a load on the battery? Common causes are reading lights left on, light switch left turned to "parking lights" instead of off.
If you have a voltmeter, check the voltage present after the FEH is started. The voltage should be around 14 to 14.4V. Check the reading at the battery posts, and at the battery clamps. The readings should be identical. If the post voltage is less than the clamp voltage, corrosion or a loose clamp is preventing the battery from charging. Sometimes a thin film of corrosion forms between the battery posts and cable connectors. While the post "looks" ok, this film can prevent the 12V battery from charging. Try cleaning the posts with a post cleaner or some fine sand paper.
The problem could be a low level in one cell. Carefully remove the battery caps and see if the level is below the plates in any cell. If so, add distilled water until the plates are covered. Don't overfill. If you find a cell needs water more than once a year - replace the battery, it is near the end of it's life.
Your battery could have a bad cell. A voltmeter can be used to check for this. Check after returning from a drive and turning off the FEH. Turn on the headlights for about two minutes, then turn them off. Measure the battery voltage. Normal for a charged battery is around 12.4 to 12.6 Volts. If there is a bad cell the reading will be around 10.5 V.
Could the DC-DC converter be faulty? Shouldn't I be getting 14V+ while it's on? Maybe that's what draind the original batt? The only 'drain' I have is my cell phone charger on the 12V outlet. It's supposed to be a 'smart' car and turn off anything after 20min, I use auto lamps so no lights left on.
Should I just keep checking? Do I need to have the DC/Dc invert checked out? SG gave no codes.
Thanks
#19
07-09-2010, 05:12 PM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
Well, since I didn't want to go read my SG II, I found the forum and these are the values I use:
txd: 076122D128
rxf: 046285D19628
rxd: 3008
mth: 006400330000
Nam: AWD (or whatever you want to call the xguage)
https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...ge-code-20996/
txd: 076122D128
rxf: 046285D19628
rxd: 3008
mth: 006400330000
Nam: AWD (or whatever you want to call the xguage)
https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...ge-code-20996/
#20
07-10-2010, 01:07 AM
Re: No Start - Dead - Batt(s)?
I think I found my own answer in my service manuals [and to get back on topic thread thieves! <sarcasam>]
It appears the DC/DC inverter should output 13.2-16VDC to the batt when the key is ON. There is a test, highbeams, heater fan on high, there should not be a drop of more than .75VDC between the Pos batt & Pos DC/DC inverter (I had .25) and on the Neg side less than .25 (I had .025!). So I guess all is well under the hood, guess it was just a 2yr batt that lasted 3yrs 1mo 2 weeks!
But to a SG question, is there a Batt Temp code for the 08+ that works?
It appears the DC/DC inverter should output 13.2-16VDC to the batt when the key is ON. There is a test, highbeams, heater fan on high, there should not be a drop of more than .75VDC between the Pos batt & Pos DC/DC inverter (I had .25) and on the Neg side less than .25 (I had .025!). So I guess all is well under the hood, guess it was just a 2yr batt that lasted 3yrs 1mo 2 weeks!
But to a SG question, is there a Batt Temp code for the 08+ that works?
