Well, I got my hitch installed today.

I bought a Draw-Tite model #75281. It clears both the refrigerant lines and the muffler by over an inch. After reading some bad stuff, I was worried about both of those.

It took about an 1.5 hours to install, but I was taking my time. I found that with the MMH, both frame ends were 1/2 open. That eliminated the need to drill an access hole on the driver's side. Because of the 1/2 open frame, I inserted the "fishing wire" the thru the bolt hole, and fished it back to the larger target of the open frame end. Because of doing it that way, though much easier (a larger hole as target), the "fishing wire" was about 6" too short. So, I had to extend it by duct taping an extension wire onto its end.

I haven't done lights yet. I bought the Valley T-connector #30131 to attach to the tail lights, and the Modulite #18193 power adapter due to the Message Center's monitoring of power to sense bulb outage. I am not too worried about the lights because my primary usage of the hitch is for a bicycle carrier.

I got all my stuff from etrailer.com.

| (corrected T-connector P/N)

 

You and I are basically copying each other . Same hitch I have the same lighting setup on order from e-trailer (incidentally they told me the 30130 is on back order until next week--I assume the one you order is for the Mariner because your tail light and turn signal are combined into one lamp).

I installed my hitch about a month ago went as smooth as yours (the wire needed to be extended), looks good and solid. I also got it for a bike carrier, My carrier is a THULE T2. Nice bike carrier!! Bikes are solidly attached, no movement, it locks and it even swings up behind the FEH when I'm not using it (so it only hangs out a couple of feet). When I am using it by dropping it down you can actually open the back hatch of the FEH without taking the bike off the rack! Very nice. I've actually had more people question me about the rack than I've had ask me about the Hybrid .

If you haven't got a rack yet I recommend it! It its fairly pricey though.

If you get your wiring before me post or write me to let me know any tips for routing the wires you might acquire.... it would be much appreciated!

 

Any Class I hitches that anyone recommends for the FEH? I'd only ever be using it for a bike carrier (1-2 bikes, max.) and want the lightest possible hitch otherwise I'll just suck it up, remove the front wheels and throw 'em in the back with the seats down on top of a tarp.... 'course that won't work well once the baby comes along (April 1, 2007!)

 

I've seen a class 2 (haven't seen any 1s) hitches at www.draw-tite.com, but I didn't like how the cross bar stuck out.

I don't think you'd save alot of weight honestly.... a few pounds at most. As for what that does for mileage... Well before the bike carrier and hitch I was getting about 29-30MPG (mines a 4WD and I don't do any of the "tricks" like tire pressure--and I drive only a 9mile commute to work which isn't the best for MPG). When I have the hitch, AND the bike carrier (which in my case weighs more than the hitch--its a substantial bike carrier) and a bike on the back... I get--- about 29-30MPG). Its not really much of an effect. I'm sure there is a measurable difference, but its just not that much. We are talking a 3700lb vehicle here. Even 100lbs is only 2.5% more weight. If you are talking saving a couple of pounds with a lighter hitch... its just not that significant.

I'd go more for how the hitch looks... most of the class II's seem to have a crossbar that goes across the entire back of the vehicle and is exposed beneath the bumper.

By the way.... congratulations on the new addition thats on the way!!!! (the baby, not the hitch or bike rack ).

 

Good points about the relative weight. I, too, would much prefer a hitch look like it fits well with the vehicle and wasn't literally "thrown on". I'll spend some time comparing and looking at the photos referenced in this thread for fit/apperance characteristics. Who knows, I might need or want to tow something small at some point and a heftier hitch would be more sturdy.

Thanks for the congrats on the baby! We find out in two weeks if its a wee boy or a wee girl.

 

I, too, would have preferred a hitch that was out-of-sight except when in use. However, as I mentioned, I was more worried about a hitch design that neither touched, nor came very close to touching, to either the refrigerant lines or the muffler.

The Draw-Tite and the Hidden Hitch designs looked almost identical, and both stay very clear of those lines and the muffler.

I can say, I wish someone like Hidden Hitch actually make a hidden hitch. One where the sleeve, into which the ball mount is inserted, was removable. This way, there would be nothing "sticking out" when not in use. However, I could not find such.

As stated, this is an SUV. So, having a visible hitch really isn't a big deal.

 

Somewhat visible, yes... glaringly obvious and liable to bruise my leg everytime I load and unload groceries? Hopefully not!

 

I think the draw-tite Class 3 I have (like yours) is fairly unobtrusive. I don't mind the receiver so much. Its just that the class 2 would seem to have a bar across the ENTIRE rear of the vehicle.... I didn't like that look at all.

 

Those reading this thread for the first time...I will post a photo of my recent installation of the Class 3 Hidden Hitch model designed for the Hybrid.
https://www.greenhybrid.com/share/fi...HitchView3.JPG

All materials were of the best quality (see second posted photo) and following the directions let me complete the install in less than 2 hours (only pain is pulling the exhaust off its hanger to torque the sixth of the six attachment nuts.) I believe I saw where most of the larger bike racks recommended Class 3 hitches for anything over 2 bikes. Can't really plan on using the FEH to "tow" more than bikes with the 1000 lb limit. I was very impressed with how flush the hitch is with the rear bumper...I anticipate no busted shins on the receiver alone.

 

The draw-tite model is almost identical. You can manage to torque that last nut without messing with the muffler if you try hard enough--at least on the draw-tite, and the holes have to be in the same place. I didn't move my muffler to get to it, banged my hand on it a couple of times (recommend letting the muffler cool first ).