Hi - I know there aren't many of these still around. Looking for the old-timers here...

In my 06 accord with original battery I've been driving with a few codes for a while now - I don't have them handy but it was a degraded battery code and one or two generic codes...it seemed to be a pretty standard, replace battery and everything will be resolved situation. It was still charging the 12V.

I picked up a battery at a scrap yard to try, guy gave me 60 days on it so nothing to lose I figured. This battery had the SB2 sticker on it, I did not realize this was different from my SB1 at the time. Ok so it didn't work, would not charge the 12V and had the red light on. I found out from bumblebee (was trying to also get on their wait list for a refurbished) that I could try getting the software update from Honda and the SB2 would then work (if it was any good). So I went and got the software update for $120 today with the salvage battery installed. Still had the red 12V light on afterwards.

So after leaving honda I pull into a parking lot to swap my original, semi-working battery back in to drive home. When I go to start the car, I hear the normal clicking sounds from the IMA area, a good sign, but when I start it the red light is only off for a very brief moment, like 1 second, and then it comes on. This is different from the SB2 battery where it is on from the very start and the car will only start off the 12V. The car now sometimes starts off the 12V, and sometimes off the IMA, but either way the 12V light comes right on.

So now I need to try to get back to my original state with just IMA/CEL lights on but charging the 12V.

2 questions I guess:

1. Should the SB1 battery work with updated IMA (SB2) software? Or is it known fact that only a good SB2 battery will work with my car now, post software update?
2. What are my next steps if any? Wait on the bumblebee wait list and put a refurbished bat in, or could there be other problems now with my controllers or inverter or something...?

Thanks in advance

Edit: By the way, the code I left the dealership with was P1570 that was with the new battery and software. I am going to see if I can take a read on the codes now with the old battery put back in..

Edit2: codes I get with my reader are p0004 and p0080 and that is now with the old battery put back in. When I turn the key forward, I hear a the few normal clicks from the battery area. It starts off the IMA battery, then I hear a single, deeper toned click right as the red 12V light comes on about 1sec after the engine revs up, like some controller in the back is disabling the charging of the 12V. These codes seem to be irrelevant, have to do with fuel volume and exhaust valve..? Don't know maybe my reader is no good or something...

 

I would be very interested to find your conclusion on the SB1 versus SB2 battery. I recently also picked up a battery from a salvage yard. The battery had a sticker of SB2.

My original 2005 HAH battery that was going bad. I grid charged/discharged the battery and was able to get rid of the check engine and IMA codes. After the first conditioning my car acted like it was brand-new with gas mileage in the mid-20s upon start up and into the upper 30s when driving on the highway. However since then the battery seems to have deteriorated and provides gas mileage in the single digits's upon start up and provides mileage comparable to A non-high A non-hybred V-6.

i have gone through a second conditioning process to no avail.

I am curious as to what the dealer programs when they program the car after a battery swap. I also have the original IPU that came out of the salvaged vehicle. I am curious if the IPU should be replaced when an original battery is swapped out with an SB2. If so, would any programming be required?

 

No Prob - I'll tell you what I learned. If your original battery did not have the SB2 sticker and the new one does, then you will need a software update from Honda. The update cost $120 at my dealer - it should be about 1 hr flat rate. They may give you a hard time about doing the update because they don't want to be liable if it doesn't work so just be persistent and escalate to manager right away if they say no. You will need to drive the car in with the SB2 battery installed for them do to the update - cannot do the update first and but the battery in later.

Basically, the two batteries each require their respective softwares.

Once I updated the software I found that the junkyard battery was still throwing a code indicating it was no good. Expensive to find out I had a dud. Luckily the junkyard had promised it worked and agreed to 30 day return when I had purchased it.

I got a bumblebee battery after this ordeal. I highly recommend you go this route and save the hassle. Don't bother with the software update, just request the SB1 version, and not the SB2. I think the difference between their technology and programming is miniscule in terms of fuel efficiency.

So if you put the SB2 in and want to take a shot, go to Honda for the update. If it still is throwing a code after the software is flashed then the SB2 is bad.

Here is the honda service bulletin about the software update and batteries. https://www.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/104794/A10-083
You can reference this with Honda to easily explain what it is you are asking for.