The car is going back to the dealer for this problem again today. About every 2nd drive, at some point, we'll get a transmission problem warning, then immediately LDW and FCW malfunction warnings. Here's a video of the warnings:
That P/N/D/R transmission light just blinks "all on" after the warnings start, regardless of what gear I'm in. If I turn the car off and back on immediately, the warnings are still showing. If I leave it off for 30 seconds or so, the warnings do not appear when the car is started.

This is accompanied by NO other symptoms. The car works and drives normally. I'm guessing that the LDW and FCW sensors will not work during the warnings, but I haven't tried (LDW is off b/c it sucks, and FCW is not super easy to test with wife and our kid (new driver) in the car, as it's an aggressive test ).

The dealer was unable to perform diagnostics b/c they said the battery was not up to spec on cold cranking amps, so they replaced that for $150, drove the car twice, didn't see the warning, and declared it fixed. First day back, the warnings hit.

Anyone else seen this? I hate the dealer experience, because it's like working with first tier tech support, where they run through all the basics and never get to your problem. I am not looking forward to today's results.

Thanks in advance!

-Mike

 

Based on your initial description, I too would have suspected the 12V battery. You can avoid the initial dealer experience by either taking your 12V to the parts store to have it tested or buying a $20 Schumacher BT-100 load tester from Amazon.

You could also have your own $10-20 OBDII code reader, or take it to a parts store and have your codes read (IMHO, O'Reilly gives the best results).

The dependency of the modern automobile on multiple integrated computer systems demands that the 12V battery be evaluated before any additional diagnostics can be reliability accomplished.

Had you done your own evaluation of the 12V, you could have skipped the first trip to the dealer if the 12V was indeed a problem. If the dealer came back with your 12V being an issue, you would have had some ammo to throw back at them.

Now the problem appears to be:
1) Bad 12V (I have seen new batteries DOA)
2) Charging System problem
3) Something else.

With your own load tester, you could again eliminate 1 & 2.
With your own code reader, you might be able to read any associated codes.

The only defense against incompetent dealerships is consumer empowerment. Your average service advisor is an inexperienced idiot, and your average "tier 1" tech is only marginally better. The only thing dealership service personnel have in common is a goal of liberating you of as much of your money as possible with as little effort as possible. Service advisors get rewarded based on volume, and techs have to spend as little time as possible on diagnostics/repair in order to make a mediocre living.

Unfortunately, with high-tech vehicles like the HAH, there isn't enough of a secondary market to justify specialization, so you're stuck with the dealership.

Good luck,

Steve

 

Thanks. It's back at the dealership now, with a new battery and charging working as specified. I used to grease-monkey my own cars, but don't have time or inclination now, and just pay to have work done. I'm fairly certain that they're going to say that they couldn't reproduce it, and that's not getting anyone anywhere. With the battery replacement, I've paid down the diagnostic fee, so they pretty much have to fix it to get me off their back. Still under warranty if I have to get Honda involved.

I am still interested to hear if anyone has seen this problem on the Accord Hybrid so I can potentially share any new intel with the dealership.

 

I'm in my late 40s. I don't ever see myself getting to the point that you are unless I become so wealthy, $50,000 cars become disposable to me (never going to happen).


My loathing for the dealership is such that I will never be totally at their mercy. I will continue to drive 8+ year old cars to insure that the common bugs and oddities have all been shaken out.


Sorry I don't have more to add.

 

Yeah, I'm in my mid 40s. I've built my own kitchen cabinets, remodeled every part of various houses, built three homes with Habitat, rebuilt motors, restored a Jeep, done trail repairs on a ruptured brake line on a Scout (.22 shell jammed into the line to retain pressure), etc. I'm blessed to be at a point where I can choose my battles, and it's much better for the family life if I go to the dealership instead of work, pop open the laptop and wait for Service to figure it out -- then I can be the soccer coach, Scoutmaster, RE teacher, etc. when I'm on my time

Certainly full respect for DIY, and I still DIY a metric assload of work at our house, but I'm over cars for a few years. I may still restore an old Jeep one day (would be my 5th).

Anyhoo, I appreciate the suggestions and troubleshooting.

I'm troubled by the fact that nobody else has seen this :-/ The dealer felt horrible that the car came back and is working hard to ensure we're not back again for this. We shall see.

 

 

I know this is an old thread, but I found it in my search this morning because I am having the same exact issue. Same warnings but the car seems fine. I am taking to the dealership tomorrow. When I called service to get an appointment, they did ask about battery but they replaced that a few months ago. Will obviously see what they say tomorrow, but I was curious to see how your issue was resolved. I have a 2015 Honda Accord hybrid, but I have honda care extended warranty, so hoping if it is anything major that it will be covered.

Thanks!

 

Car worked perfectly when I parked in garage last night, this morning will not start, almost all warning lights come on. Ck'd battery, very low, cleaned crud from + post, now battery read 12+ volts....but I get the same warning lights on, is there some magical "reset" button that will clear out the warning lights, it's a 2015 Accord just turned 85K

 

I am having the same issue with my 2014 Accord Hybrid (currently at 79000 miles). Did anyone have any luck tracking this down?

 

so what was the issue?