Hello, hoping to get some advice on how to diagnose and repair this issue. 2008 TCH with 67k miles.

- Issue started a month ago with the remote not locking the doors nor giving confirmation beep. Would unlock fine though on drivers then rest of doors. And manual door lock switch on driver or pax door would work fine.
- Then remote unlock would work intermittently for driver and driver rear doors, fine for pax side. Switch had trouble getting driver and driver rear pax doors to unlock consistently.
- Today the remote will not lock any doors, putting my hand on the driver door handle will not unlock, black button on door handle does not lock, and door switch will not lock/unlock the drivers door nor rear drivers side door.

Hoping to try to diagnose/repair this myself as opposed to getting raked over the coals by the dealer. Thanks in advance.

 

I had the same issue with my 2007 TCH. First the driver's door, and a year later the passenger door. It cost a few hundred bucks to fix.

 

Did you DIY or dealer? Recall what parts they replaced?

 

You will need to dig into the doors a little to figure this one out. Check for voltage out of the switch in the door when it is activated. After that, check the voltage at the lock actuator. That will narrow down where the problem is fairly quickly. Let us know what you find after doing those if you can't figure out the problem.

 

Removed the door panel and hooked up a meter across the white/red wires on the connector going into the drivers door lock actuator. Voltages were hard to read but looks like it tried to peak out at 11-12v either locking or unlocking. Wasn't consistent but again hard to interpret if this is due to the short duration of the pulse when the lock/unlock switch is pressed or not.

Next I removed the lock actuator, hooked back up the wire harness, and used the lock/unlock button again. Pressed the lock/unlock and could hear a very small click from the actuator most times when locking or unlocking.

What I keep coming back to is the fact that both drivers side front and rear went out at almost the same time.

Thanks for the advice thus far.

 

If you have access to a power probe, apply 12V to the actuator itself (not using the switch) to see if it will work correctly. It will NOT be a quiet click. From the sound of it, you have a bad switch or a loose connection somewhere that is not allowing full voltage (or amps) to the solenoid.

 

I don't, but could I tap off of a 12v signal from somewhere else in the car? Cigarette lighter?

 

You can tap off another circuit but make SURE you have a fuse where you tap the positive wire. You do not want to have a wire that could short that is not protected by a fuse. Make sure the frame of the solenoid is ground well also, grounds cause more issues on a car than loose connections do.

 

Well, gave up and took into Toyota, they diagnosed to both actuators were bad. But wanted $1050 parts and labor! Um, no. Ordered the two on Amazon for $299 all in. Last night I thought about taking the passenger side one out and hooking up the harness on the left to check.. Probably should have done that. Will report back on Friday after installing to make sure it solves the problem. Thanks for the advice along the way!

 

Worked perfectly now with both new actuators installed, took under 30 mind total. Can't believe Toyota wanted over $1000... well, yes I can.