Bleeding brakes

  #21  
Old 11-10-2013, 07:03 AM
ukrkoz's Avatar
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Default Re: Bleeding brakes

Oh well. It's only $150 to bleed brakes at dealership

I actually found where the noise is coming from. It is coming from driver side rear. This time, I could reproduce it from hand.
Thing is, and I forgot, I had pass side rotor replaced. Driver side one was still OEM Toyota one. I had new ceramic pads installed, and from what I now recall from my wife's RX300 experience, ceramic pads and Toyota rotors do not go together well. Her car was making very similar rubbing whoomp whoomp right before coming to halt. This one makes same sound taking off.
Rotor did look a bit overheated, but not blu-ish, sort of very light brown-ish. I simply could not tell. And it was awfully glazed.
So far, I took rotor off, and removed as much glaze as I could with wire brush. Flipped caliper piston up, peeled dust boot off, and sprayed some Quick Wrench type fluid everywhere around piston. Pressed it out half way stepping on the brake pedal (yeah, it's spooky - you step on the pedal, have normal pedal feel, and pedal actuators come up like machine guns) and sprayed good spray lubricant onto piston. Put dust boot back on.
I drove her out and she did not do any whoomp, but I need to do it again. She does this only after prolonged parking. Maybe it's issue of little rust build up.. I'll simply replace that rotor. Worse come to worse, will swap caliper next Saturday and go to dealership.
Litespeed, those calipers have banjo line connection. You can't cap that.
 
  #22  
Old 11-13-2013, 03:44 PM
litespeed's Avatar
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Default Re: Bleeding brakes

Originally Posted by ukrkoz View Post
Oh well. It's only $150 to bleed brakes at dealership

I actually found where the noise is coming from. It is coming from driver side rear. This time, I could reproduce it from hand.
Thing is, and I forgot, I had pass side rotor replaced. Driver side one was still OEM Toyota one. I had new ceramic pads installed, and from what I now recall from my wife's RX300 experience, ceramic pads and Toyota rotors do not go together well. Her car was making very similar rubbing whoomp whoomp right before coming to halt. This one makes same sound taking off.
Rotor did look a bit overheated, but not blu-ish, sort of very light brown-ish. I simply could not tell. And it was awfully glazed.
So far, I took rotor off, and removed as much glaze as I could with wire brush. Flipped caliper piston up, peeled dust boot off, and sprayed some Quick Wrench type fluid everywhere around piston. Pressed it out half way stepping on the brake pedal (yeah, it's spooky - you step on the pedal, have normal pedal feel, and pedal actuators come up like machine guns) and sprayed good spray lubricant onto piston. Put dust boot back on.
I drove her out and she did not do any whoomp, but I need to do it again. She does this only after prolonged parking. Maybe it's issue of little rust build up.. I'll simply replace that rotor. Worse come to worse, will swap caliper next Saturday and go to dealership.
Litespeed, those calipers have banjo line connection. You can't cap that.
Never even looked at them man. Just trying to find a way to help you out.

Actually, you can cap a banjo line connection. Just a little more complicated with a "fluid bolt".
 
  #23  
Old 11-13-2013, 08:23 PM
ukrkoz's Avatar
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Default Re: Bleeding brakes

[quote=litespeed;250216]Never even looked at them man. Just trying to find a way to help you out.

Actually, you can cap a banjo line connection. Just a little more complicated with a "fluid bolt".[/quote

help is always appreciated. Love and peace.
 
  #24  
Old 12-06-2013, 09:48 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 732
Default Re: Bleeding brakes

I got one of the knock-off mongoose MFC cables, and a copy of techstream. You can run the actuator test and activate the brake-bleed procedure using that cable.

You can get the cable with a "bootleg" copy of techstream for around $20 on e-bay or around $30 on amazon. There is a bit of a trick to get the drivers properly installed, and it likes to run on a 32 bit computer, but once it is running it works just like the dealer's computer system.

I plan to replace my actuator myself and then bleed the brakes and give the dealer a big middle finger for trying to get over $3,000 out of me for a part/job that should run around $500.

I'm just glad I got well over 200,000 miles out of the first actuator unlike some that have as few as 40,000 miles before theirs failed.

The other bonus of the MFC cable is the ability to change all of the custom settings in the ecu. I have 3 Toyotas and now they all have the seatbelt warning chimes turned off.
 
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