Comments on the FAQ
#11
01-30-2008, 09:19 AM
Re: Comments on the FAQ
chris_h — The 12-volt battery in the TCH is an AGM (Absorptive Glass Mat) type. These batteries are designed to survive repeated deep discharge/recharge cycles without failure, but cannot take rapid charge or discharge without potential damage (temperature dependent). The TCH's ECU circuitry limits the charge/discharge rates. Jump starting another vehicle using the TCH's 12-V battery is likely to reduce its service life appreciably due to the very high cranking current that is drawn from it in such an operation. (It's also a rather expensive battery to replace! It incorporates both a temperature sensor and a gas venting valve and gas discharge attachment.)
Stan
Stan
#12
01-31-2008, 08:24 AM
Re: Comments on the FAQ
chris_h — The 12-volt battery in the TCH is an AGM (Absorptive Glass Mat) type. These batteries are designed to survive repeated deep discharge/recharge cycles without failure, but cannot take rapid charge or discharge without potential damage (temperature dependent). The TCH's ECU circuitry limits the charge/discharge rates. Jump starting another vehicle using the TCH's 12-V battery is likely to reduce its service life appreciably due to the very high cranking current that is drawn from it in such an operation. (It's also a rather expensive battery to replace! It incorporates both a temperature sensor and a gas venting valve and gas discharge attachment.)
Stan
Stan
Interesting. Thanks for the info. This makes me glad that I put the truck on a battery tender, and also glad that I got the extended warranty for the TCH.
#13
01-31-2008, 08:33 AM
Re: Comments on the FAQ
Hmm...
From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agm_battery
Their specific power is very good and they can be charged and discharged quite rapidly
I wonder if the technology has improved so that rapid discharge is no longer a concern.
From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agm_battery
Their specific power is very good and they can be charged and discharged quite rapidly
I wonder if the technology has improved so that rapid discharge is no longer a concern.
#14
01-31-2008, 10:33 AM
Re: Comments on the FAQ
We see the real glide, or stopped ICE, is achieved below 41 miles per hour and we never get the best fuel efficiency above 41 miles per hour.
So, the referenced page suggested that the the real Pulse&Glide can be done below 41 mph, for example, between 30 miles per hour and 40 miles per hour.
Also, please refer to following thread and the chart.
http://priuschat.com/forums/fuel-eco...tml#post385271
Regards,
Ken@Japan
Last edited by ken1784; 01-31-2008 at 10:38 AM.
#15
02-01-2008, 10:14 AM
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,051
#16
02-02-2008, 12:16 AM
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 2,051
Re: Comments on the FAQ
This post is the master correction post. I will put the modifications that will be edited into the FAQ here.
Correction needed-
done
Update for number 12:
"Questions regarding changing your oil and air filter" update to be more generic:
"Questions regarding changing fluids and filters"
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Updated layout as follows (adds new question about coolant and has come other changes).
(Post for number 12)
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Make similar layout changes as were made to main post.
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Add new bullet for:
Correction needed-
Originally Posted by done
- Replace the link for the tire pressure survey with this one https://www.greenhybrid.com/discuss/...re-poll-16778/
- correct this item drive in HOV lanes with only one passenger should be occupant
- Replace linked answers with text answers to reduce the need for internal linking
- Change toPlease do not reply to this thread.
If you have a question about any of these topics, please create a new thread.
Thanks!
This is a closed thread.
If you have a question about any of these topics, please create a new thread.
Thanks! - Modification to number 11
...an engine block heater? - Add www.fueleconomy.gov to item # 6 and break up the question into two sections
- Addition to the question regarding tax credits
Add this
Please see www.fueleconomy.gov for information on hybrid tax credits
Originally Posted by done
- Addition to the customizing section
edited, so far
Q. How do I adjust the...(seatbelt warning, headlight auto off timer, etc.)?
Yes!
There are many modifications that you can make to your car and they are detailed in the owner's manual (it's very helpful, if you haven't read it, you should!). Link is for the 2007 model, the 2008 is substantially similar.
Some of the modifications that you can do yourself include:- Automatic door locking and unlocking options.
- Rear view mirror compass settings
- etc.
In addition, there are a number of customizable features ranging from warning tones to headlight auto on sensitivity settings to heating and air conditioning controls that can be only be adjusted by your dealer. - To be added to the Calculated Mileage section (change the name of this section)
done
Q, How do I interpret the graph on the ECO Drive Display (one of the screens inside the speedometer) and the blue rings that, at times, appear around the speedometer?
doneThe ECO Drive chart shows the car's approximate average mpg since you last started the car (it resets every time you turn the car off). It is a stair step display and is updated every 10 seconds.
The rings may appear on the outside of the speedometer as your mpg improves. The gauges change luminosity and more rings are added at the same time as the ECO Drive stair step increases. The following are the levels of the stair steps and corresponding blue speedometer rings:- Level 0 -- Below 25 mpg -- Ring brightness off, no lines
- Level 1 -- Between 26 & 30 mpg -- Ring brightness is subtle with one thin blue line
- Level 2 -- Between 31 & 35 mpg -- Ring brightness is medium intensity with thicker blue lines
- Level 3 -- 36 mpg & above -- Ring brightness is full intensity with the thickest blue lines
The ECO display on the dash is not related to the ECO switch next to the tank refill switch referred to in this post. - Under the battery section:
Q. Are you sure I can't jump another car? I asked the dealer about this prior to buying the car, and they said it would be okay.
doneA.The 12-volt battery in the TCH is an AGM (Absorptive Glass Mat) type. These batteries are designed to survive repeated deep discharge/recharge cycles without failure, but cannot take rapid charge or discharge without potential damage (temperature dependent). The TCH's ECU circuitry limits the charge/discharge rates. Jump starting another vehicle using the TCH's 12-V battery is likely to reduce its service life appreciably due to the very high cranking current that is drawn from it in such an operation. (It's also a rather expensive battery to replace! It incorporates both a temperature sensor and a gas venting valve and gas discharge attachment.) - This might fit under the battery section.
Q. What happens if I run out of gas?
When your gas gauge reaches E and your MFD indicate 0 miles left on the tank, you have approximately 3 gallons of gas left in the tank. You should try and refill your tank as soon as possible. There are no awards given for the most mileage driven per tank, similarly, it's not fun standing on the side of the road hoping someone will give you a ride to the nearest gas station.
However, in the unlikely situation that you forgot to refill your tank, you failed to notice the dashboard warning light and the car ran out of fuel, your car will be able to drive approximately one or two miles (depending on driving habits, conditions, and battery state) before the main hybrid (traction) battery runs out of power. If you are unable to make it to a gas station before the hybrid battery dies, your car will be stranded and you will need to contact the Toyota dealership to have the battery charged.
Word to the wise...when the warning light tells you you need fuel, get it.
done - Q. My car acts differently when it first starts up and when it is warmed up, are there different stages?
The warm up times vary with the temperature as well as use of the car's climate control system. The ECO mode helps, but if the temperature is below 40F, you may see the ICE stay running for a long time if you have the heat on.
The TCH has 4 stages of operation.- Stage 1 is initial warmup. The ICE will not shut off and battery assist is greater than normal. In warmer weather, this lasts a minute or less. In colder weather it can last a few minutes.
- Stage 2 is engine warmup. It lasts 2 or 3 miles in cool weather, longer in cold weather. The ICE shuts off if you stop, but will not shut off when coasting.
- Stage 3 is partial hybrid mode. The ICE is warm, and the engine shuts off if you coast between 35 and 41mph. If you stop with the ICE running, it will stop after a short time, but stays running once started until you coast (between 35 and 41mph) or stop again.
- Stage 4 is full hybrid mode. Enter it by braking to a complete stop (or slowing to below 5 MPH) for approximetely 7 seconds or so it takes for the ICE to shut off), it is possible to enter Stage 4. It is hard to know if this ICE shutdown is due to stage 3 or entering stage 4. The only way to know is to accelerate to ~20mph and coast.
If the ICE...- ...continues to run after you stop the car, it is still in stage 3.
- ...stops within a few seconds the car is in stage 4.
If you want to try and force stage 4, the ICE must be running when you stop or the TCH will not enter stage 4, it will remain in stage 3. You can hold your foot on the brake and "blip" the throttle to "start" the ICE, and then enter Stage 4 after it shuts down (~ 7 seconds.)
- Q. Typically how long do the stages last?
Assuming moderate (50 to 60F) temperatures when driving on suburban roads (between 25 to 40 mph)...- Stage 1 lasts approximately 30 seconds
- Stage 2 approximately 3 minutes
- Stage 3 approximately 3 minutes
done
Update for number 12:
"Questions regarding changing your oil and air filter" update to be more generic:
"Questions regarding changing fluids and filters"
Updated layout as follows (adds new question about coolant and has come other changes).
- Oil
- Where can I learn more about engine oil?
- How can I make changing oil less messy?
- How much should my oil change cost?
- Why is my oil filter on so tight?
- What oil and filter should I use?
- Coolants
- Recommended engine and transaxle coolant change intervals?
- Filters (non-oil)
- How do I remove the air filter?]
(Post for number 12)
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Make similar layout changes as were made to main post.
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Add new bullet for:
- Recommended engine and transaxle coolant change intervals?For information about recommended engine and transaxle coolant change intervals, see this post.
Originally Posted by done
Revise warranty section as follows
Buying an extended warranty?
The dealerships listed are not meant to be an advertisement or endorsement by this site, forum, or members of this forum. Use these contacts only if you feel comfortable conducting such business. As always, do your own research before making any purchase commitment.
Buying an extended warranty?
- Find out if others are purchasing extended warranties.
- Some dealerships increase the price of the "extras" (such as a warranty) to make additional money. You will find most dealerships will offer you a 7 year / 100,000 mile / $0 deductable warranty for almost $2000. If you are like the rest of us, this will leave you in shock!
Good news. You can purchase an extended warranty from any Toyota dealership in the country (U.S. -- unsure about other countries). Because of this, there are a number of dealerships that offer extremely discounted warranties.
Two frequently mentioned dealerships:- Midwest Toyota Superstore (Kansas) - (620) 662-6631
- Toyota of Greenfield (Massachusetts) - (413) 772-0231
The dealerships listed are not meant to be an advertisement or endorsement by this site, forum, or members of this forum. Use these contacts only if you feel comfortable conducting such business. As always, do your own research before making any purchase commitment.
Last edited by haroldo; 03-06-2008 at 11:21 AM.
#17
02-04-2008, 12:59 PM
Ridiculously Active Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mid Hudson Valley, New York
Posts: 1,389
Re: Comments on the FAQ
Fix number 11, second bullet to read "...an engine block heater?" and correct the linked to post in the FAQ to use:
...an engine block heater?
* For instructions on installing an engine block heater...
* For instructions on installing an engine block heater...
#18
02-04-2008, 05:52 PM
Re: Comments on the FAQ
2. Stage 2 is engine warmup. It lasts 2 or 3 miles in cool weather, longer in cold weather. The ICE shuts off if you stop, but will not shut off when coasting.
Does the TCH act differently?
Ken@Japan
#20
02-05-2008, 08:38 AM
Re: Comments on the FAQ
Regarding Stage 4: slowing down below 40 miles per hour simply stops the ICE when in Stage 3 and does not enter Stage 4. The transition from Stage 3 to Stage 4 only occurs if the ICE is running when stopped. (I also have seen it transition in creeping traffic when going < 5 miles per hour for about 10 seconds)
Another interesting observation is it is possible to go directly from Stage 1 to Stage 4 when restarting with a warmed up engine! It takes a little practice, but can be done consistently. The key is to pay attention to the battery assist/ICE rpms during Stage 1. As soon as the rpms rise, the TCH has left Stage 1. If you coast immediately the ICE will stop and viola! Stage 4. On my way home I often combine trips and stop now and then. When I get back in the TCH, I gently accelerate until I notice the ICE rpm increase, then coast and smile as the ICE stops and I'm now in Stage 4.
Typically Stage 1 on a warm start runs about 20 seconds or so. During Stage 1 acceleration is primarily from the battery, as the ICE runs at a rather constant rpm. Once Stage 1 ends, the extra battery assist stops and the ICE rpm increases to pick up the load.
- Stage 4 is full hybrid mode. Enter it by braking to a complete stop with the ICE running and wait to see if that the engine shuts off after 7 to 10 seconds. (((Doesn't slowing from below 40 miles per hour accomplish the same??))) It is hard to know if this ICE shutdown is due to stage 3 or entering stage 4. The only way I know is to accelerate to ~20mph and coast.
If the ICE...- ...continues to run after you stop the car, it is still in stage 3.
- ...stops within a few seconds the car is in stage 4.
Last edited by nash; 02-05-2008 at 08:41 AM.
